To Peter, my greatest supporter and biggest fan.
C ONTENTS
I NTRODUCTION
EVERY PROJECT IN THIS BOOK IS CERTAINLY SIMPLE ENOUGH FOR ANYONE WHO CAN THREAD A NEEDLE AND SEW A STRAIGHT SEAM.
My children occasionally lift their faces from the computer screen long enough to ask me what I did as a child, curious to know how I survived before YouTube. I assure them that not only had man invented the wheel, but that he had also created three network TV channels, and when I wasnt pretending to be Ginger from Gilligans Island, I did crafts. For my 10th birthday, my mother gave me a sewing machinemost likely to keep me from breaking hers. Sewing opened up a whole new world for me, and I left egg carton caterpillars and tissue paper flowers behind. I started sewing pillows and tote bags, and eventually moved on to Kwik Sew and Sew EZ types of patterns, apparently unbothered by their alternative spellings. By 13 years old, I had started getting creative with the patternsadding the top of this one to the bottom of that oneand before too long Id started making patterns of my own. Patterns for beginning sewers are still available, and I recommend learning to sew by getting a simple pattern from your local sewing store and following the step-by step directions.
Because I had sewn for so much of my life, I was unaware that not everyone was out there throwing together evening gowns with a couple of yards of fabric and some well-selected trim. When I became a contestant on season three of Bravos fashion design reality series Project Runway, I started to understand that the creative process fascinates people. As complicated as they may look, the items that I made on Project Runway and continue to make today are actually quite simple: Im really still in the Very Easy Vogue state of mind. How else could I have pulled off design challenges such as Create a gown for the Miss Universe Pageantin 3 hours and with $30with materials from a hardware store? I know how to be quick and crafty, to say the least. Ive never been to fashion school or had more than the most basic sewing lesson from my mom. Every project in this book is certainly simple enough for anyone who can thread a needle and sew a straight seam, and some projects dont even require any sewing.
THE PROJECTS IN THIS BOOK ARE ORGANIZED IN SKILL-BUILDING ORDER, FROM EASIEST TO MOST DIFFICULT, AND ARE LAID OUT IN SIMPLE STEPS.
That said, this book is different from most of the sewing project books Ive seen (and bought) in recent years. While those tend to have a crafty, country, quaint sensibility, I like to think that my projects (and their endless possible variations) are upscale, chic, and urbane. They reflect the glamorous look and feel that I became known for during my time on Project Runway and that got me all the way to New York Fashion Week. No small feat for an untrained home sewer.
Some of the projects in this book are accessory items sewn from scratch. Some are embellishment techniques that you can use on a garment you sew, buy at a store, or already have hanging in your closet. Other projects are about transforming something out of date or out of use into something new and exciting. Be warned that this is not Dressmaking 101: There are no instructions for how to create a skirt by sewing a triangle of fabric to a pair of jeans or fashion a purse out of a cigar box. In this book, I offer a thoroughly modern approach to DIY.
The projects in this book are organized in skill-building order, from easiest to most difficult, and are laid out in simple steps. Every material or technique I suggest throughout is explained in either , youll become familiar working with materials that may be new to you, such as leather or feathers, and youll find that the same techniques and design elements are used in more complex projects later on. Once youve successfully completed a few projects, youll be amazed by how talented you really are.
Along with step-by-step instructions and illustrations, Ive also included patterns and templates throughout, as well as a list of that every item I use in this book, down to the smallest bead, is available online. Ive also included the names of my favorite stores here in New York, so you can place an order by phone or just come by and find me wandering the aisles.
Whatever project you choose to make, I highly recommend using quality materials. The old adage about buying the best you can afford holds true here. I prefer the feel of real, soft, buttery leather in my hands, and Im sure you will, too. Plastic beads will never shine the way real crystal beads do, so invest in the good stuff, and be sure to buy the best quality thread because it is no fun to work with cheap thread that tangles and breaks. You will spend a little more, but your projects will be more enjoyable to work on and theyll last longer, too. And just think of all the money youll be saving by doing the handwork yourself. (Im good at rationalizations; I have a closet full of pricey shoes because I save so much money sewing my own clothes.)
Have you ever wondered why high-end luxury items cost as much as they do? The answer is craftsmanship. A top-end handbag may take a craftsman as much as 40 hours to sew by hand. Quality is also a factor in price. Only the finest, most unblemished skins make the grade.
Finally, luxury items are products of exquisite design. You have probably noticed as you look through the accessories section of your local department store that the simple things are always the most difficult to find. Thats because they are the most difficult to produce well. When there are no superfluous zippers, flaps, or pockets to hide bad construction, every flaw shows. Cheap leather has no place to hide. In a well-designed item, every element has a function and a purpose. Its the simple black dress that has to be cut just right from the best-quality fabricand thats the dress we all need.
Maybe one day you will be able to walk into a fine leather goods store and treat yourself to whatever you want, or maybe you already can. But if you want to make the most out of the projects in this book and achieve that high-end look at home, I encourage you to think of yourself as a craftsman, use quality materials, take your time, and be precise.
As simple and straightforward as these projects are, the results are truly spectacular. When people catch a glimpse of your finished pieces, they wont ask, Did you make that? Theyll ask, Where did you get that? or What designer is that? Your friends will barely believe you when you say, I made it myself.
M ATERIALS AND T ECHNIQUES
W ORKING WITH L EATHER
I AM ENAMORED OF THE feel, the smell, the colors, and the textures of leather. Im not sure if I love bags and shoes because they are made of leather or if I love leather because it is what bags and shoes are made of. Its my personal chicken/egg dilemma. If youve never worked with leather before, dont be intimidated. Working with leather is a lot like working with fabricand well-behaved, forgiving fabric, at that. It comes in an endless array of colors and textures, and it has great body and just enough stretch so you can fudge. Plus, the edges dont unravel.
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