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Autry Johnny - Pooles: recipes and stories from a modern diner

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Autry Johnny Pooles: recipes and stories from a modern diner

Pooles: recipes and stories from a modern diner: summary, description and annotation

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Counter snacks and things that people stand around eating -- Vinaigrettes -- Vegetables -- Bowls and such -- Meat and fish -- Desserts -- Cocktails.;From the acclaimed chef Ashley Christensen comes a bold and revelatory reinvention of Southern food, as told through the recipes and stories from her iconic and beloved restaurant, Pooles Diner. Ashley Christensen is the new face of Southern cooking, and her debut cookbook, Pooles, honors the traditions of this celebrated cuisine, while introducing a new vernacular-elevated simple side dishes spiked with complex vinaigrettes, meatless mains showcasing vibrant vegetables, and intensified flavors through a cadre of back-pocket recipes that will become indispensable in your kitchen. Recipes like Turnip Green Fritters with Whipped Tahini; Heirloom Tomatoes with Crushed Olives, Crispy Quinoa, and White Anchovy Dressing; and Warm Broccoli Salad with Cheddar and Bacon Vinaigrette share the menu with the definitive recipe for Pimento Cheese, a show-stopping Macaroni au Gratin, and crave-worthy Challah Bread Pudding with Whiskey Apples and Creme Fraiche, all redefining what comfort food can be. Pooles is also the story of how Christensen opened a restaurant, and in the process, energized Raleighs downtown. By fostering a network of farmers, cooks, and guests, and taking care of her people by feeding them well, she built a powerful community around the restaurant. The cookbook is infused with Christensens generous spirit and belief that great cooking is fundamental to good living. With abundant, dramatically beautiful photography and a luxe presentation, Pooles is a landmark addition to the cookbook canon, a collection from which readers will cook and find inspiration, and pass down for generations to come. From the Hardcover edition.

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The recipes in this book are, for the most part, flexible enough to be adapted to whatever ingredients are local and available to you. Starting your shopping at your local farmers market is the best bet. But if you are running into roadblocks, theres a recourse. Luckily most things are now available for purchase online. Here are a few places to look.

PANTRY

Amontillado sherry

KL Wines

klwines.com

Banyuls vinegar

Zingermans

zingermans.com

Barrel-aged maple syrup

Pappy & Co.

pappyco.com

Benne oil

Oliver Farm

oliverfarm.com

Chiles de arbol, chiles de pequin

Kalustyans kalustyans.com

Chocolate

Videri Chocolate viderichocolatefactory.com

Coarse sea salt

La Baleine

labaleine.com

Dijon mustard

Edmund Fallot fallot.com

Dried field peas

Camellia Brand Lady Cream peas or field peas

camelliabrand.com

Dried hibiscus

Mountain Rose Herbs

mountainroseherbs.com

Grits

Geechie Boy Mill

geechieboymill.com

Hot Sauce

Texas Pete Original Hot Sauce

texaspete.com

Olive oil

California Olive Ranch Arbequina Extra Virgin

californiaoliveranch.com

Pedro Ximenez (PX) sherry

KL Wines

klwines.com

Piment despelette

Kalustyans kalustyans.com

Preserves and pickles

Farmers Daughter farmersdaughterbrand.com

Rice grits, Yellow Flint popcorn, Sea Island red peas, and benne seeds

Anson Mills

ansonmills.com

Fine sea salt

La Baleine

labaleine.com

Sorghum

Muddy Pond Sorghum

store.muddypondsorghum.net

Sultanas

Amazon.com

amazon.com

Tahini

Kalustyans kalustyans.com

I prefer Alwadi or Soom brand

Tellicherry peppercorn

Penzeys

penzeys.com

PRODUCE

These ingredients are usually available at our local farmers market when in season. Ive noted the seasons to help you look for them at your own local markets.

Rose Finn Apple potatoes

Early to mid summer

Fresh field peas

Summer

Mustard frills

Spring, fall, and early winter

Green peanuts

Summer

MEAT, FISH, AND DAIRY

3-year aged cheddar

Hooks Cheese

hookscheese.com

Buttermilk

Cruze Farm

cruzefarm.com

I prefer Cruze brand from Tennessee, but any whole-fat buttermilk will do.

Fromage blanc

Murrays Cheese

murrayscheese.com

Whole duck, duck fat

Dartagnan

dartagnan.com

Country ham

Johnston County Hams

countrycuredhams.com

Whole octopus

Fresh Seafood

freshseafood.com

I can get fresh whole octopus from the seafood counter at Whole Foods, as well as my local seafood store; you can also order them frozen online.

EQUIPMENT

ISI whipper, Kitchenaid meat grinder attachment

Williams-Sonoma

williamssonoma.com

Sur La Table

surlatable.com

Pepper grinder

Unicorn Mills

unicornmills.com

Acknowledgments

Always remember there was nothing worth sharing, like the love that let us share our name.

THE AVETT BROTHERS

To the Poole and Jordan familiesShirley and Leon, thank you for trusting me with your family name. It has truly been an honor to continue the legacy of this little diner that proved to be a very important piece of our great city. I promise we wont let you down.

To Robert Fox Christensen and Lynn Christensen, thank you for sharing with me the gardens and the bees, the flowers, and the importance of books and music. Thank you for the memories of the smell of food cooking in our home, and the joy of sharing. Thank you for opening my eyes and my heart to a love for entertainingmy greatest joy in life is found in sharing with others what youve shared with me. Thank you for this life.

To Eliza Kraft Olander, for believing in me, over and over again. You have made so many of my possibilities into realities. For all that you have taught me in the world of business, its your generosity that inspires me the most. For all that I may achieve, you have shown me that the greatest reward exists in what I may do for others to help them recognize their potential.

To Kaitlyn GoalenYou signed on to manage my writing process, and you emerged as my co-author. This has been one of my favorite discoveries; all of my stories are better when youre a part of them. I remain in awe of your brilliance, both on the page and in everyday life. Thank you for your hard work, for believing in me, and for all of my flaws, loving me regardless. You are my best friend, and the light and love of my life. Im so excited for our next chapter.

Thank you, David Black of the David Black Agency. You opened my mind to the value of our story, and you fought for my opportunity to tell it. You also hip-checked me on realistic timelines, and Im so glad you did. Ill be a client as long as youll have me.

To Jenny Wapner for being the first editor to reach out and ask if Id ever considered writing a book. (I still remember turning to John T. Edge in the NYC cab we were sharing and saying, Whoa! Someone wants to make a book with me!) As the concept became not so wild of an idea, you nurtured and developed my vision, and protected the integrity of my home, my story, and Pooles Diner. Together, I think we made something really special. Thank you for seeing the story in me before we ever met.

Thank you, Johnny Autry, for the incredible photographs that tell our story as much as our words.

Thank you, Charlotte Autry, for styling our shoots like youd been with us since we opened the doors.

To Kara Plikaitis, Kate Bolen, Aaron Wehner, and the Ten Speed Press teamThank you for all of your hard work on the backend that helped to turn a series of long headnotes into an actual cookbook!

To my brother, Zak ChristensenRemember when I was six years old and you told me that if I helped you take down the trash, we could form a special team, AND, you would let me name the team? I named us the Pac-Man Garbage Team. I was so proud as I dragged the bigger-than-me cans down the driveway in the cold, grinning ear to ear. You kind of pulled one over on me, but you taught me how much pride there is in being part of team, and how that pride can channel strength greater than we might physically embody at the moment. Ive made a life of naming teams, and feeling a lot of pride. Teamwork makes the dream work. Thank you. I love you, bro.

And on the subject of brothersMatt Kelly, I dont even know where to begin. You are both my favorite kitchen peer, and one of my greatest mentors. I look to you for guidance constantly. You are an incredible chef and one of the best pals a gal could dream up. Remember that time you wore your lucky Star Wars socks for me at the James Beard Awards? It worked DUDE! It worked!!! Proving yet again, you are a magical unicorn. I love you, pal.

To Team Pooles (our current team, and all members past)YOU are my favorite piece of our story. It has been and continues to be a wild adventure, and I am honored to share it with each and all of you. I would do it all again, every single bit of it. Work Hard, Play Hard.

To Matt FernThank you for giving this place all you had in every moment. Together, we took Pooles to unimaginable places on one core ingredientheart. Your beverage talents are boundless, but your role as head cheerleader has been my favorite. Clap your hands loudly, and continue making the world a better place.

Thank you Charlotte Coman for the incredible ground support through the production of this book. I needed someone who is as big of a freak for the details as I am, and with a love for this food as great as mine. My dearyou take the cake.

To Jason TomaszewskiYour dedication to our food and your love for this little diner are immeasurable. I want you to know, Pooles loves you just as much as you love Pooles. Lets keep writing this story.

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