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Denton Jason - Simple Italian Snacks

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Denton Jason Simple Italian Snacks

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Americans are embracing the small plate craze. They are serving bite-size mini mealstapas, bar snacks, antipasti, skewered vegetableswhenever they entertain.

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Simple Italian Snacks

More Recipes from Americas Favorite Panini Bar

Jason Denton and Kathryn Kellinger

Photography by Michael Piazza

To my amazing wife Jennifer and my two little dudes Jack and Finn I love - photo 1

To my amazing wife, Jennifer, and my two little dudes, Jack and Finn, I love you

Jason Denton

For Kay and George and all that took place in the kitchen

Kathryn Kellinger

Contents Breakfast lunch and dinner all have their meritsbooks have - photo 2

Contents

Breakfast lunch and dinner all have their meritsbooks have been written - photo 3

Breakfast, lunch, and dinner all have their meritsbooks have been written, families raised, and important business conducted over all of these meals. But for my family and me, most of our meals are built from snacks; delicious ingredients arranged into an assortment of small plates. Lively, fun, and sophisticated, these snacks are born from the union of the Italian tradition of antipasti and the modern American lifestyle. The pace at the table is leisurely, and the time spent in the kitchen is just as relaxed.

Small plates, bar snacks, antipasti, and tapasthese are familiar terms to most of the American restaurant-going public. Social and stylish, this type of cuisine is the basis for my weekends with friends and family, midweek nights at home with the neighbors, or just the kids on a Sunday morning. Like everybody else, I dont have the time to make elaborate mealsI save that for holidays. But we do a lot of entertaining all year long, and this is the food that makes it possible. Beside the ease of advance preparation, the prolonged nibbling of snacks and small plates is conducive to extended conversation and elongated loungingboth of which should be national pastimes.

The Italian custom of antipasti has gained popularity in restaurants recently (even though it existed in medieval times) with broad tables of small plates to entice the guests as they enter, offering something to nibble on while considering the rest of the meal. The food I serve at my restaurantsino, Lupa, inotecca, and Bar Milanois made and served in the tradition of Italian conviviality. The dishes in this book have been road testedthese are the ones my friends love and look for when they arrive for a summer weekend or an afternoon of football.

The chapters in this book are based on occasions: time spent with friends and family and what you might serve them. Each chapter lists a selection of items that are especially suited to, say, having friends over, casual picnics, or serving a sit-down dinner. Seasons come into play mostly in spirit, but occasionally the fleeting availability of an ingredient like figs or corn dictates a snack that celebrates the season.

Panini, tramezzini, and bruschetta continue to be major players in our home entertaining. In Simple Italian Sandwiches I highlighted many of the classic combinationsthe iconic sandwiches of Italy. Ive added more here, but Ive focused on regional combinations such as a panini of speck, cabbage, and poppy seeds, flavors that you might find in the northern Alpine region of Italy. Or I have featured what I consider an Italian approach to worldwide ingredients, like the Tramezzini of Duck Confit Salad with Pickled Squash Mayonnaise. This type of snacking continues to be inspiringthe combination of simplicity and endless possibilities is what Simple Italian Snacks hopes to embody.

Use the occasions as a starting point, and then compose your menus based on your own style and preferences. What all of these snacks share is a simplicity of preparation and an Italian approach toward ingredients. There are combinations that are authentic and others that I think channel the spirit of Italian cooking. This is food to have fun withpreparing it, serving it, and, of course, eating it. My travels and restaurants are where the ideas for these dishes are born, but my home and family are where they take shape, and where the table really comes alive. Cheers!

INVITING FRIENDS OVER FOR DRINKS IS LIBERATINGTHIS IS FREE-FORM socializing - photo 4

INVITING FRIENDS OVER FOR DRINKS IS LIBERATINGTHIS IS FREE-FORM socializing, unlike dinner parties with their tyrannical schedules of cooking times and seating charts. Guests should be able to reach for a bite to eat as easily as they might refill their glass. The host should be able to laugh and gossip with abandon, knowing that theres not much to do in the kitchen. The first recipe in this chapter, Shallow-Fried Brussels Sprouts, gives you an opportunity to hold court: you at the stove, your guests at the kitchen counter, chatting over a glass of Prosecco.

SHALLOW-FRIED BRUSSELS SPROUTS

TRAMEZZINI OF EGG WITH ITALIAN TUNA

INO MAYONNAISE

BRUSCHETTA OF WHITE BEANS WITH EGG YOLK VINAIGRETTE AND TOMATO

TALEGGIO, APPLE, AND PISTACHIO PANINI

BRUSCHETTA OF HERBED RICOTTA AND BLACK PEPPER

MILANO MIXER

ALMOND ORANGE BISCOTTI

SHALLOW-FRIED BRUSSELS SPROUTS

Deep-fried flavor using only a minimum of oilthis is my at-home method of frying. With brussels sprouts, I pull the leaves from the globe and let them sizzle to a delicate crunch. Thin, crisp, and salty, theyre a leafy green garden alternative to nuts and chips when serving cocktails. And people are always surprised to find that they do like brussels sprouts, at least when theyre prepared this way.

6 cups vegetable oil

1 pint brussels sprouts, leaves separated

Sea salt

4 slices prosciutto di Parma, cut into thin ribbons (optional)

SERVES 4

  1. Pour the vegetable oil into a large (10-inch) straight-sided saut pan. Heat it over a medium-high flame until a brussels sprout leaf sizzles vigorously when dropped in.
  2. Working in batches, add the leaves to the hot oil and fry them for 2 minutes, until they are crisp and golden. Using a slotted spoon, transfer them to a paper-towel-lined tray. Immediately sprinkle the fried leaves with sea salt. Let the oil reheat before adding another batch.
  3. Let the leaves cool for 2 minutes before dividing them between two small serving dishes.
  4. Scatter the prosciutto over the fried leaves, if using, before serving.

TRAMEZZINI OF EGG WITH ITALIAN TUNA

This sandwich is one of those so-basic-but-so-sophisticated combinations. Embodying the Italian love of simple ingredients, this tramezzino combines two kitchen staples: canned tuna and hard-boiled eggs. Use homemade mayonnaise, add a glass of Verdicchio, and the effect is pure luxury.

8 ounces canned Italian tuna

cup Lemon Mayonnaise

8 slices pullman bread (square sandwich loaf also called pain de mie; Arnold Brick Oven White is a fine substitute)

2 hard-boiled eggs (see below), sliced

Sea salt

Freshly ground black pepper

SERVES 4

  1. Drain the tuna and flake it with a fork in a mixing bowl. Add the Lemon Mayonnaise and combine. (If making fresh mayo isnt on your agenda, add the juice of 1 lemon to 2 tablespoons of Hellmanns, which is called Best Foods on the West Coast. Whisk to combine.)
  2. Arrange half of the bread slices on a clean work surface. Spread a thin layer of tuna over each slice, covering it completely. Arrange the egg slices over the tuna, and then season with sea salt and freshly ground black pepper. Cover with the remaining bread slices and press gently.
  3. Remove the crusts with a serrated knife, cut each sandwich in half diagonally, and serve.
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