Gayler Paul - Chicken & other birds: from the perfect roast chicken to Asian-style duck breasts

CONTENTS In the nineteenth century, gastronome Brillat-Savarin wrote that poultry is for the cook what canvas is for the painter. I couldnt agree more. It is the simple, mild flavours of poultry that make it so extremely versatile. Nearly every culture around the world has at least one way of preparing its poultry, incorporating the flavours and cooking methods that are unique to that cultures particular food heritage and local culinary styles. I am thrilled to have brought together in this book some of my favourite poultry recipes. Some are classics that have withstood the test of time, some are great recipes that I have sourced from all over the globe, and some are recipes that I first prepared many years ago when I was a young trainee chef.

Although most of these recipes are based on chicken, there are also many for other types of poultry. But one of the beauties of poultry is its adaptability, so if you fancy a dish using guinea fowl or duck, it is simply a matter of replacing the chicken in the recipe with your choice of poultry, and adjusting the cooking time according to the size and type of the bird or the cut. The opportunities for variety are endless and are in your own hands. As I am sure you are all too well aware, battery hen houses and intensive breeding techniques have brought poultry prices down considerably in recent years. Poultry is now relatively inexpensive and commonplace. Before that, it was the preserve of the rich or was only eaten on special occasions.

But these intensive faming methods have their critics. We have now moved into a more health-conscious era where many people are unhappy with the idea of raising our poultry and meat using hormones, antibiotics and other chemicals. Chefs and much of the public now generally prefer the use of free-range or organic poultry and meat, though, of course, many people still like to buy cheaper, intensively bred products. We all have a choice. Supermarkets are very cost-sensitive and continue to offer cheaper products for those that want them. Sceptics have yet to be convinced that the extra costs involved in producing free-range or organic poultry and meat are worthwhile.

But I am going to get on my high horse and plead for the virtues of buying the best you can afford. As far as I am concerned, the extra costs are worth every penny. The free-range, organic poultry you buy will be better in every way; in fact, I guarantee that it will be a revelation. The texture will be slightly firmer than the cotton-wool texture we have come to expect from our poultry but more importantly, the flavour will be far superior richer and gamier. What is more, if the demand grows for well-reared, free-range and organic poultry, the cheaper it will become and the better it will be for the welfare of the birds. For me, real food wins every time and even the best poultry still offers great value.

It can be cooked in so many ways. You can roast it with butter and fresh herbs, you can skewer and grill (broil) it, you can poach it gently in a light, creamy sauce, use it in slow-casseroled dishes, add it to tasty salads, or coat it in breadcrumbs and deep-fry it to a delicious crispness. Whatever your taste, you will find a recipe here to enjoy. Chicken and all its poultry cousins rarely lets you down. I hope you enjoy this book and the recipes I want to share with you.

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