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The story of Londons world-beating food scene, with 50 recipes from restaurants, artisan producers and neighbourhoods
One begins to wonder how big Londons appetite can get, as the tummy of the great metropolis grumbles more and more. Eateries grand, plain and simple, or strangely complicated, with every country represented. All are trying to stem this massive hunger. I myself seem to have contributed to this quagmire of kitchens in a mother hen kind of way (cluck cluck), shooing my chickadees out of the nest when they are ready to flee the coop.
With all these new restaurants opening I find the creature of habit in me comes to the fore. I must have bored many people over the years about my love of lunch at Sweetings working chaos in action; a joy to behold. This glorious institution is something that could never be designed; if you did it would seem trite and boring (not to mention senseless), but somehow here the tolerance of surfaces of the old wet fish shop that the restaurant inhabits allows for the rigours of a good lunch.
Also an old favourite is Ikeda on Brook Street. This was a Japanese restaurant before Japanese restaurants became as ubiquitous and homogenised as they so often are today. Here is sushi on blood-temperature rice, dishes of herbs and roots, and an open kitchen which cooks at a purposeful pace, which is hypnotic to watch.
Since you are getting my Pop Pickers Favourites, here is Le Gavroche for me the home of comfort. The waiters glide, you glide yourself, and indeed everything glides once you are in. There was one occasion on which the gliding got the better of me: lunching with a friend after a late night, Chef de Rang was slicing our chicken and I dropped off just as he was about to sauce my plate. I woke with a start just before I hit the chicken with my nose and before I received an earful of sauce. Disaster was averted, though it left both me and the waiter a bit shaky.
Excuse me if I seem a little insular when it comes to the London food scene. I assure you that this is not the case. You are as likely to find me in the delightful BAO as at Cipriani. On the other hand, I am a chap who was described in one of St. Johns first reviews as being 200 years out of date.
I have a cabbage theory, based on an evening that I spent in Rome with some young groovers who spent the whole night discussing punterelle, the Roman bitter green chicory. The day I hear London hipsters talk about an English cabbage with such love I will know that London has truly become as food-aware as it feels. I think we are getting there those small farmers markets sprouting up all over the city give one hope. For example, Kennington, the market nearest us at home, sells extra thick raw cream, which is wonderful when scooped liberally onto pudding. Then there is the butcher who, when asked whether he had any more lambs kidneys, replied that the lamb only has two. These are life-affirming moments.
Fergus Henderson
Introduction
London is renowned the world over for the quality, diversity and ingenuity of its food. It has taken time and no small effort from an army of dedicated restaurateurs, food purveyors and producers to achieve this coveted reputation but the city is now a top culinary destination with a food scene that matches its magnetic pull of history and culture.
From street food stalls to Michelin restaurants, London is a magnet for cooking talent: a place where, no matter the cuisine or the credentials of the restaurant, there is always an appetite for good food. Chefs are keen to experiment with new concepts, while diners are open to trying diverse national and regional cuisines from all over the globe. London is a city where pretty much anything is possible when it comes to food: palates are challenged, skills are pushed to the limit and ambitions are realised.
London has a resurging craft beer industry, with pubs and bars keen to stock locally produced ales, lagers and ciders; while the capital is also becoming home to an increasing number of food producers who appreciate the camaraderie, community, local appetite and environmental benefits of basing their businesses on their customers doorsteps.
Food markets are vibrant and thriving, with artisan and farmers markets in practically every corner of the capital from stalls setting up in school car parks, to the mighty Borough. And night markets are becoming the new hipster hangout; street food, music and cocktails providing the backdrop to a weekend in the city.
Brewers, bakers, smokers, conservers, distillers, beekeepers, coffee brewers and cheesemakers all have their part to play in keeping Londoners appetites whetted with exciting new, local ingredients. Meanwhile, restaurateurs and chefs come up with ever more interesting ways to prepare and present the array of ingredients that are sourced not only from the capital but also from every corner of the globe.
This book showcases the best that London has to offer, from some of the brightest stars in the restaurant industry to some of the most exciting food purveyors living and working in the capital. Theres a comprehensive overview of the best food markets, as well as introductions to some of Londons neighbourhoods where the rich history of the city has resulted in diverse ethnic culinary hubs. There are restaurants featured all over the city from classic establishments to new eateries that have been quick to make an impression. Then its time to meet some food producers people who have chosen to set up their businesses in the capital and connect with a network of likeminded individuals.
There are recipes from chefs, market traders, pop-up restaurants and food producers, which highlight the creative talents of the individuals, as well as the diversity of the food scene. These will give you a taste of what London has to offer so you can experience the food and soak up the atmosphere of the restaurants, markets, cafes and bars that make this city so special.