Americas Test Kitchen - The Editors at Americas Test

Twenty years ago, I bought a copy of Lorna Sasss Cooking Under Pressure and spent the next six months making everything from pot roast to, believe it or not, cheesecake. I was a convert, but, like most specialty kitchen tools, my pressure cooker ended up under the counter and, eventually, in the basement.

Since that time, two things have happened. First, pressure cookers have become both much better designed and also more reliable. Second, our test kitchen has spent the last year testing and developing recipes to make this appliance one that you will use, if not every day then at least every week. You can do almost anything in a pressure cooker, from takes only 6 minutes of cooking under pressure) that you will never make them again using traditional methods.

Some of my favorite recipes are that takes just 1 hour. I will use a pressure cooker for that last recipe alone. And, of course, pressure cookers are terrific for speeding up everyday chores such as cooking beans, rice, grains, and tough cuts of meat.

The best thing about the pressure cooker is that there are very few trade-offs for the time savings. Unlike a microwave oven, cooking under pressure actually produces better food, and there is nothing finicky about itthe shape or size of various items makes no difference in cooking time. You can put really good food on the table fast without feeling like you have taken shortcuts on quality.

In the many months of testing, we did come across an interesting fact. Almost all the times listed for basic pressure cooker recipes (vegetables, grains, etc.) were incorrect. We spent weeks testing the basics, getting the timing right, and we have included reliable charts so that you can use the pressure cooker as a useful cooking tool day in and day out. We also tested electric pressure cookers (we prefer stovetop models) since they very often produce different results. Now you can use either type and be guaranteed of success.

This of course reminds me of a story. Many years ago when telephones had party lines (I grew up with such a phone), each customer had their own ring. It seems that our road commissioner, Sonny, went to visit an old bachelor farmer who lived alone. The year before, the farmers friends suggested that he install a phone, which was now ringing insistentlyone long and three shortas the commissioner walked through the door. Sonny asked, Aint that your ring? The old-timer guessed that it was. The commissioner then asked, Well, why dont you answer the damn thing? Sonny, came the reply, I had that phone put in for my convenience!