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Copyright 2022 by Americas Test Kitchen
All rights reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced or transmitted in any manner whatsoever without written permission from the publisher, except in the case of brief quotations embodied in critical articles or reviews.
Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data has been applied for
ISBN9781954210127
Ebook ISBN9781954210134
Americas Test Kitchen
21 Drydock Avenue, Boston, MA 02210
Distributed by Penguin Random House Publisher Services
Tel: 800.733.3000
Editorial Director, Books Adam Kowit
Executive Food Editor Dan Zuccarello
Deputy Food Editors Leah Colins and Stephanie Pixley
Executive Managing Editor Debra Hudak
Senior Editors Valerie Cimino, Joseph Gitter, Sacha Madadian, and Sara Mayer
Test Cooks Ssha Coleman, Olivia Counter, Jacqueline Gochenouer, Eric Haessler, and Hisham Hassan
Associate Editor Sara Zatopek
Contributing Editor Cheryl Redmond
Editorial Support Katrina Munichiello, April Poole, and Rachel Schowalter
Design Director Lindsey Timko Chandler
Deputy Art Director Katie Barranger
Designers Allison Boales and Jen Kanavos Hoffman
Photography Director Julie Bozzo Cote
Senior Photography Producer Meredith Mulcahy
Senior Staff Photographers Steve Klise and Daniel J. van Ackere
Staff Photographer Kevin White
Additional Photography Joseph Keller and Carl Tremblay
Food Styling Tara Busa, Isabelle English, Joy Howard, Sheila Jarnes, Catrine Kelty, Chantal Lambeth, Gina McCreadie, Kendra McKnight, Ashley Moore, Marie Piraino, Elle Simone Scott, Kendra Smith, and Sally Staub
Illustration John Burgoyne; Traci Daberko; Rose Flynn; Sophie Greenspan; Hannah Jacobs; Jay Layman; MGMT.design, LLC; Michael Newhouse; and Lauren Pettapiece
Project Manager, Creative Operations Katie Kimmerer
Senior Print Production Specialist Lauren Robbins
Production and Imaging Coordinator Amanda Yong
Production and Imaging Specialists Tricia Neumyer and Dennis Noble
Copy Editor Deri Reed
Proofreader Ann-Marie Imbornoni
Indexer Elizabeth Parson
Chief Creative Officer Jack Bishop
Executive Editorial Directors Julia Collin Davison and Bridget Lancaster
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CONTENTS
WELCOME TO AMERICAS TEST KITCHEN
This book has been tested, written, and edited by the folks at Americas Test Kitchen, where curious cooks become confident cooks. Located in Bostons Seaport District in the historic Innovation and Design Building, it features 15,000 square feet of kitchen space, including multiple photography and video studios. It is the home of Cooks Illustrated magazine and Cooks Country magazine and is the workday destination for more than 60 test cooks, editors, and cookware specialists. Our mission is to empower and inspire confidence, community, and creativity in the kitchen.
We start the process of testing a recipe with a complete lack of preconceptions, which means that we accept no claim, no technique, and no recipe at face value. We simply assemble as many variations as possible, test a half dozen of the most promising ones, and taste the results blind. We then construct our own recipe and continue to test it, varying ingredients, techniques, and cooking times until we reach a consensus. As we like to say in the test kitchen, We make the mistakes so you dont have to. The result, we hope, is the best version of a particular recipe, but we realize that only you can be the final judge of our success (or failure). We use the same rigorous approach when we test equipment and taste ingredients.
None of this would be possible without a belief that good cooking, much like good music, is based on a foundation of objective technique. Some people like spicy foods and others dont, but there is a right way to saut; there is a best way to cook a pot roast; and there are measurable scientific principles involved in producing perfectly beaten, stable egg whites. Our ultimate goal is to investigate the fundamental principles of cooking to give you the techniques, tools, and ingredients you need to become a better cook. It is as simple as that.
To see what goes on behind the scenes at Americas Test Kitchen, check out our social media channels for kitchen snapshots, exclusive content, video tips, and much more. You can watch us work (in our actual test kitchen) by tuning in to Americas Test Kitchen or Cooks Country on public television or on our websites. Listen to Proof, Mystery Recipe, and The Walk-In (AmericasTestKitchen.com/podcasts) to hear engaging, complex stories about people and food. Want to hone your cooking skills or finally learn how to bakewith an Americas Test Kitchen test cook? Enroll in one of our online cooking classes. And you can engage the next generation of home cooks with kid-tested recipes from Americas Test Kitchen Kids.
Our community of home recipe testers provides valuable feedback on recipes under development by ensuring that they are foolproof. You can help us investigate the how and why behind successful recipes from your home kitchen. (Sign up at AmericasTestKitchen.com/recipe_testing.)
However you choose to visit us, we welcome you into our kitchen, where you can stand by our side as we test our way to the best recipes in America.
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