Lonely Planet South India & Kerala Including Guides to Mumbai, Goa, Maharashtra and More

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Like a giant wedge plunging into the Indian Ocean, peninsular South India is the steamy heartland of the subcontinent, and a lush contrast to the snow-capped mountains and sun-crisped plains of the north.

Two words: stunningly unforgettable. This is the India for those seeking the happy-go-lucky beach life of Goa; the ancient Hindu temples of Tamil Nadu and Karnataka; the upbeat urban jungles of Mumbai (Bombay) and Bengaluru (Bangalore); the breezy palm-fringed backwaters of tropical Kerala; the trekking and wildlife-watching opportunities of forested sanctuaries; and the remarkably unfettered tribal culture of Andhra Pradesh. With its ability to inspire, frustrate, thrill and confound all at once, this part of the world certainly presents an extraordinary spectrum of travel experiences. Some of these can be challenging, particularly for the first-time visitor: the poverty is confronting, Indian bureaucracy can be exasperating and the crush of humanity sometimes turns the simplest task into an epic battle. Even veteran travellers find their sanity frayed at some point, yet this is all part of the India ride. Love it or loathe it and most visitors see-saw between the two South India will jostle your entire being, and no matter where you go or what you do, the memories you gather will blaze brightly long after your trip comes to a close.

South India comprises thousands of kilometres of coastline that frame fertile plains and curvaceous hills, all kept glisteningly lush by the double-barrelled monsoon. The regions tropical splendour is one of its greatest tourist drawcards with thick coconut groves, luminescent rice paddies, fragrant spice gardens and verdant tea plantations proffering plenty of green respite. And then there are the waterways. Azure seas gently lap crescents of sun-warmed sand and boats cruise along the slender rivers and glassy lagoons of Keralas renowned backwaters. Aficionados of the great outdoors can look forward to paddling in the shimmering waters of one of many beautiful beaches, scouting for big jungle cats on heart-racing wildlife safaris, or simply inhaling fresh country air on meditative forest walks.

With a tremendous variety of diverse dishes, South India is deliciously rewarding. From traditional southern favourites such as idlis (fermented rice cakes) and papery dosas (savoury crepes) to a melange of regional and global offerings, theres certainly no dearth of culinary adventures. Food also plays a prominent part in many of the regions festivals, with wildly colourful sweets usually taking centre stage. Given its rich collection of religious denominations, South Indias festival scene is a wonderfully mixed platter from larger-than-life celebrations with elephants and body-twisting acrobats, to pint-sized harvest fairs honouring a locally worshipped deity.

Enigmatic Hampi

Todays surreal boulderscape of Hampi () was once the glorious Vijayanagar, capital of a powerful Hindu empire. Still glorious in ruins, its temples and royal structures combine with the terrain in mystical ways: giant rocks balance on skinny pedestals near an ancient elephant garage, temples tuck into crevices between boulders, and round coracle boats float by rice paddies and bathing buffaloes near a gargantuan bathtub for a queen. Watching the sunset cast a rosy glow over the extraordinary landscape, you might just forget what planet youre on.

Virupaksha Temple, Hampi
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Ajantas Ancient Caves

They may have been ascetics, but the 2nd-century-BC monks who created the Ajanta caves () certainly had an eye for the dramatic. The 30 rock-cut forest grottoes punctuate the side of a horseshoe-shaped cliff and originally had individual staircases leading down to the river. The architecture and towering stupas made these caves inspiring places to meditate and live, but the real bling came centuries later, in the form of exquisite carvings and paintings depicting the Buddhas former lives. Makes living in a cave look pretty darn good.

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Historic Hyderabad

If youre a history buff, youll get your fill in Hyderabad (). The city has oodles of historic attractions, including the landmark Charminar a graceful edifice with fluted minarets and elegant arches. Bazaars are another highlight, with fabrics, pearls, scented oils among the many treasures to be found. And then theres the food. Acclaimed for its traditional Mughal-style cuisine, notably spicy kebabs and biryani (steamed rice with meat and/or vegetables), Hyderabadi fare gets a hearty round of applause for its deliciously inventive preparations.

Charminar, Hyderabad
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Majestic Mysore

Welcome to Mysore () a city whose etymology is linked to the spot where a brave goddess conquered a ferocious demon. Apart from its formidable history, this is the place to take a leisurely wander through frenetic old bazaars filled with the intoxicating aroma of sandalwood, fresh flowers and incense. Mysore is also known for its convivial festivals. Dussehra which celebrates the triumph of good over evil is one of the most spectacular occasions with merry street parades and the dazzling lighting-up of the citys enormous palace.

Maharajas Palace, Mysore
CRAIG PERSHOUSE/LONELY PLANET IMAGES

TOP experiences

Keralas Beautiful Backwaters

It is not every day you come across a place as sublime as Keralas backwaters: 900 kilometres of interconnected rivers, lakes and glassy lagoons lined with lush tropical flora. And if you do, there likely wont be a way to experience it thats quite as serene and intimate as a few days on a teak-and-palm-thatch houseboat (). Float along the water as the sun sinks behind whispering palms, while nibbling on seafood so fresh its still almost wriggling and forget about life on land for awhile.

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Go Goa

Silken sand, gently crashing waves, thick coconut groves, hot pink sunsetsyes, if theres one place that effortlessly fulfils every glossy tourist brochure clich, its Goa ( ). Apart from a few exceptions Goas beaches are a riot of activity, with a constant cavalcade of roaming sarong vendors, stacks of ramshackle beachside eateries and countless oiled bodies slowly baking on row after row of sun lounges. Goa is also known for its inland spice plantations and lovely heritage buildings, most notably the handsome cathedrals built during Portuguese reign.