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First published by John Lehmann 1951
Revised edition 1958
Published in Penguin Books 1959
Second revised edition 1966
Reissued in this edition 2011
Copyright Elizabeth David, 1951, 1958, 1966
Further revisions copyright The Estate of Elizabeth David, 2001
All rights reserved
ISBN: 978-1-405-91735-3
THE BEGINNING
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PENGUIN BOOKS
FRENCH COUNTRY COOKING
Elizabeth David discovered her taste for good food and wine when she lived with a French family while studying history and literature at the Sorbonne. A few years after her return to England she made up her mind to learn to cook so that she could reproduce for herself and her friends some of the food that she had come to appreciate in France. Subsequently, Mrs David lived and kept house in France, Italy, Greece, Egypt and India, as well as in England. She found not only the practical side but also the literature of cookery of absorbing interest and studied it throughout her life.
Her first book, Mediterranean Food, appeared in 1950. French Country Cooking followed in 1951, Italian Food, after a year of research in Italy, in 1954, Summer Cooking in 1955 and French Provincial Cooking in 1960. These books and a stream of often provocative articles in magazines and newspapers changed the outlook of English cooks for ever.
In her later works she explored the traditions of English cooking (Spices, Salt and Aromatics in the English Kitchen, 1970) and with English Bread and Yeast Cookery (1977) became the champion of a long overdue movement for good bread. An Omelette and a Glass of Wine (1984) is a selection of articles first written for the Spectator, Vogue, Nova and a range of other journals. The posthumously published Harvest of the Cold Months (1994) is a fascinating historical account of aspects of food preservation, the world-wide ice trade and the early days of refrigeration. South Wind Through the Kitchen, an anthology of recipes and articles from Mrs Davids nine books, selected by her family and friends, and by the chefs and writers she inspired, was published in 1997, and acts as a reminder of what made Elizabeth David one of the most influential and loved of English food writers. A final anthology of unpublished recipes, uncollected articles and essays entitled Is There a Nutmeg in the House? was published in 2000. This was followed in 2003 by Elizabeth Davids Christmas. In 2010, to mark 50 years since publication of Mediterranean Food, Penguin published At Elizabeth Davids Table, a collection of her best recipes and articles, illustrated for the first time with photographs.
In 1973 her contribution to gastronomy was recognized with the award of the first Andr Simon Memorial Fund Book Award. An OBE followed in 1976, and in 1977 she was made a chevalier de lordre du Mrite Agricole. In the same year English Bread and Yeast Cookery won Elizabeth David the Glenfiddich Writer of the Year Award. The universities of Essex and Bristol conferred honorary doctorates on her in 1979 and 1988 respectively. In 1982 she was elected a Fellow of the Royal Society of Literature and in 1986 was awarded a CBE. Elizabeth David died in 1992.
To My Mother
PREFACE TO SECOND EDITION (REVISED)
T HIS book was written and published at a time when food rationing was still in full force, and of necessity contained suggestions as to what ingredients might be substituted for quantities of bacon, cream, eggs, meat stock and so on. A list of stores to keep handy and where to buy them was also included, and a few recipes for dealing with tinned foods.
Such advice no longer seems necessary, so these chapters have been eliminated, as well as a few of the longer and more elaborate recipes.
I am anxious to stress the fact that this little collection gives no more than an indication of the immense diversity and range of French regional cookery. It is a subject of such scope that half a dozen large volumes of recipes would scarcely exhaust it. Indeed, it would be almost impossible ever to compile a complete collection, because in France regional cookery is very much alive, and therefore perpetually evolving. As modern transport, changing agricultural methods, and new types of kitchen stoves and utensils make old recipes out of date, so resourceful housewives and enterprising chefs invent new dishes to meet the altered circumstances and to satisfy their own creative instincts where cookery is concerned. But many of these new dishes will be based on the old traditional ones; the ingredients used will be those native to the district; the local flavour will be preserved. And so it comes about that for the collector every visit to France will produce some new dish, and those interested enough will find there is always something new to learn about the engrossing subject of French cookery.
E. D.
TABLE OF EQUIVALENT GAS AND ELECTRIC OVEN TEMPERATURES
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