Bill Yosses - The Perfect Finish: Special Desserts For Every Occasion

Frontispiece: Red Eye Devils Food Cake.

Copyright 2010 by Bill YossesPhotographs copyright 2010 by Marcus Nilsson

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Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data

Yosses, Bill.The perfect finish : special desserts for every occasion / Bill Yossesand Melissa Clark ; photographs by Marcus Nilsson. 1st ed.p. cm.Includes index.ISBN 978-0-393-05953-3 (hardcover)1. Desserts. I. Clark, Melissa. II. Title.TX773.Y677 2010641.8'6dc22

2010006891

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Acknowledgments

This book began to take shape during 2002 when Melissa Clark and I were writinga series of dessert recipes for the New York Times. I am grateful that I have such ameticulous and diligent partner who is able to capture the complexity of a greatrecipe yet put it into such understandable and mouth-watering terms.

There were so many different directions that the dessert world was traveling in at that time, and writing those articles with the talented Ms. Clark I started to review in my mind the places where and the people from whom I learned the most. Thosepeople live throughout this book.

I am a Francophile. Some of the first memorable experiences for me happened in France, but soon enough I began to see that our American cuisine has a fastdeveloping gastronomy of its own.

Though certainly not the first time my eyes were opened to possibilities, onestands out in my memory. A dessert I had at La Table dAnvers in Paris, made by thepastry chef Philippe Conticini, opened my eyes to the possibilities of flavor. He usedCuban tobacco in an orange sauce. Cuban tobacco! And it was wonderful. Just a fewtiny specks, but it was like a sharp chili and made the dish come alive. I later rushedto learn about this pastry man and read that he was looking to create emotions inthe mouth. I have never met Monsieur Conticini, but I love that phrase and I thinkit is the dessert makers highest calling. The experience that is not only the affectivepleasure of a delicious morsel but one that brings back a fond memory or tasteexperience that surprises and delights you.

Thanks to a handful of chefs who have mastered this ability to mix unusual flavors successfully, we are open to new adventures. The urge to experiment results in many failures, but gastronomy is for the adventurous and I admire the pluck of thosewild dreamers. Some who I have known and worked with, such as Pierre Hermand Robert Linxe, and others whose art I have tasted, such as Pierre Gagnaire andJol Robuchon, teach volumes with every dish they serve.

This book tacks much closer to traditional shores, but always with a twist ofeager anticipation for something new.

My first and best pastry teacher was a classicist, Jean-Pierre LeMasson, who was at Perigord Park Restaurant back in the 1980s. I owe my love of desserts to him. He

was still open to learning new things after thirty years in the business, and he madesure that curiosity was the most important lesson learned in his kitchen. I was lucky enough to get advice from Nick Malgieri and Dieter Schorner, pastry chefs who are at the top of the pastry pyramid in my book, and who are never too busy for anencouraging word.

I was privileged to work in the kitchens of David Bouley for many years, andthose were great times, devoted to the best ingredients and preparations. My sinceregratitude also goes to Joe Gurrera of Citarella, who is a walking encyclopedia on thetastes of New Yorkers.

In writing this book, great advice and wonderful support have been my lucky lot with the greatest of cookbook editors, Maria Guarnaschelli, who along with theW. W. Norton staff has forged this book into a finely tuned reality. I thank them sincerely. The meticulous testing done by Rebecca Adams, Jaimee Young, and Molly Killeen is without peer and Melanie Tortoroli has added greatly to the text andthemes in the book. Art director Ingsu Liu gave the book a seamless elegance.

The photographs are beautiful, irresistible, luscious, and mouth watering, and the amazing artistry of photographer Marcus Nilsson is to blame. The glint of light onBaccarat crystal creates a beautiful setting for a cakemy thanks to Baccarat and toKatie DosSantos for supplying those pieces. Susan Sugarman was an inspired choiceas food stylist, and she has a special knack for creating beautiful visuals. My agent andwonderful friend, Lisa Queen, has been there whenever needed as moral support,confidence builder, and judicious commentator.

My mother loved to bake. I am convinced she petitioned the Pope for some newholy days just so she could bring her cakes to the parties in the church basement.This book is dedicated to her. My life is made wonderful by my partner, Charlie. Hewears many hats: life partner, best friend, critical taster, and he sings a mean karaoke.His support sees me through.

Introduction

After baking professionally for many years, most chefs have a pretty good repertoireand dont come across astounding recipes every day. Not because they are jaded, butbecause their experience has brought them into contact with so much wonderfulfood.

Coming across a new dish that wildly exceeds expectations is thrilling, and the source doesnt matter; home cooking, ethnic restaurant, neighborhood joint, organic, biodynamic, or molecularly gastronomic, we have all had that thought, that, I justhave to get that recipe.

This book is a compilation of winner recipes. Each one has something uniqueand stands out as the best in its class. They may be fancy or simple, French, American,Asian, or Latin inspired, but all have a unique character that sets them apart. For alltheir individuality, I chose recipes that are faithful to the American palate. Flavors,textures, and appearances that are familiar and even nostalgic, but in each case theyare contemporary and fit our modern concept of dessert as a delicious but reasonablepart of an overall healthy diet.

Desserts and baking have changed dramatically, and the interest in health andwellness certainly is a major influence. I use less sugar and butter and often replacesome of the sugar with honey or other sweeteners such as maple syrup. I also addherbs as an interesting counterpart to the flavor combinations. Peaches and lemonverbena is one of my favorites. When the flavors are robust and layered, people dontmiss the sugar; their taste buds have other things to satisfy them. Nut oils are a goodsubstitute for butter and they carry less saturated fat, as well as having their ownnutrients. I often replace some butter with a good oil such as almond, grapeseed,olive, or even walnut, as you will see in Crpes Suzette with Dark Rum and Oranges(page 172).