Copyright 2015 by Marc Vetri
Photographs copyright 2015 by Ed Anderson
All rights reserved.
Published in the United States by Ten Speed Press, an imprint of the Crown Publishing Group, a division of Random House LLC, New York, a Penguin Random House Company.
www.crownpublishing.com
www.tenspeed.com
Ten Speed Press and the Ten Speed Press colophon are registered trademarks of Random House LLC.
All photographs are by Ed Anderson with the exception of those noted here: by Modernist Cuisine, LLC.
Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data
Vetri, Marc.
Mastering pasta / Marc Vetri with David Joachim ; photography by Ed Anderson.
pages cm
Includes bibliographical references and index.
1. Cooking (Pasta) I. Joachim, David. II. Title.
TX809.M17.V46 2014
641.822dc23
2014020868
Hardcover ISBN: 978-1-60774-607-2
eBook ISBN: 978-1-60774-608-9
Design by Betsy Stromberg
Illustration on
Vetri author photograph by Ed Anderson
Joachim author photograph by Olaf Starorypinksi
v3.1
TO MOM AND DAD FOR THEIR UNCONDITIONAL LOVE,
GUIDANCE, AND SUPPORT.
CONTENTS
RECIPE LIST
INTRODUCTION
PASTA SENSIBILITY
Life is a combination of magic and pasta.
FEDERICO FELLINI
SOMETIMES I FEEL LIKE MY LIFE IS ONE LONG SHEET OF PASTA. Every day takes on a different shape or filling. Some days are remarkable, and some days I want to forget. But in the end, the sheet keeps rolling on. For me, a life without pasta would be a life without music, a life without love. No dish in history has as many variations, colors, motifs, tastes, textures, and subtleties as a dish of pasta. Its like a symphony that sounds a little different each time it is played. When you enjoy a truly inspirational dish of pasta, you ooh and ahh, like when hearing a blues riff from B. B. King for the very first time. Its a simple magic that makes you smile.
I see it in my restaurants every day. Guests laugh and tell stories around the table while sipping a beautiful Barbera or Chianti and filling their bellies with all manner of delicious food. But things kick into high gear when the pasta course comes out. They look bewildered and amazed. Look at this one! Check mine out! Each thinks his or hers is the best until they pass the dishes around. They end up loving every pasta in a different way. People just adore pasta. Its a simple fact. Theres something about the shape, the feel of it in your mouth, and the combinations of flavors that make you giddy. Pasta turns you into a teenager again. It breaks my heart when I see people boiling pasta to death, throwing it on a plate, and dumping any old sauce on top. That is not a proper dish of pasta. That is more like Cheez Whiz on French fries.
To this day, pasta is misunderstood. First, many chefs and home cooks think about it as two separate things: pasta and sauce. But pasta is a singular thing. A good pasta dish is like a good marriage. In it, two things become one. It is no longer Bill Smith and Jane Smith, or pasta and sauce. It becomes The Smiths, or a dish of pasta.
Second, and I fault myself for this as well, wheat is misunderstood. Whenever anyone used to ask me, What kind of flour do you use? I would reply, Get a bag of double-zero flour. Heres a good brand. Not anymore. Flour is as vital to pasta as the marriage of noodle and saucemaybe even more vital. It is at the very heart of every noodle with great textureand great flavor. Yes, I said flavor. Flour has flavor! And after reading this book, you will understand why.
In Mastering Pasta , I teach you not only how to create and enjoy truly inspirational pasta but also how to use different flours without relying on just one brand. This book explains why classic pastas work and how to create your own classics. Great dishes like spaghetti al pomodoro and fettuccine alla bolognese withstand the test of time because they perfectly balance texture and flavor. Mastering Pasta shows you what makes any dish of pasta tick, how to craft dozens of shapes, how to marry pasta and sauce, and how to bring together flavors and textures without complicating the plate. I share with you some of my favorite doughs, fillings, and flavor combinations. And I discuss other primi on the Italian menu, including gnocchi, risotto, and rotolo .
Pasta has always been one of the most difficult things to teach young cooks. But it shouldnt be. Pasta is as simple as getting dressed in the morning. Youve stocked your closet with this and that, and then just let yourself get inspired by whats happening that day.
TRADITION AND
INNOVATION
IT SEEMS ANACHRONISTIC TO WRITE A BOOK ON PASTA IN A WORLD OF INCREASING ACCELERATION. Why roll out pasta by hand when you can buy it from a refrigerated case? Why search out Italian artisanal dried pasta made in the same style for hundreds of years when the corner store has pasta that looks pretty much the same? And forget about making risotto! Boiled rice in a microwave is quick, cheap, and gets the job done.
But does it really? I believe it does not. I also believe that pasta is not as time-consuming as many people make it out to be. Just the thought of making homemade pasta is so daunting to some cooks that they wont even try. That is precisely why I have written this bookto dispel the myth that pasta is complicated to make. Of course, understanding everything about pasta could take a lifetime, but youll get incredible results just by knowing the ingredients better and how they come together.
In these pages, youll find pasta history and science, but this book is really intended to inspire you to make pasta at home. Put it out of your mind that pasta requires a masters degree. It consists of two simple ingredients: flour and liquid. Thats it. The liquid can be water, eggs, or almost any other flavored liquid or combination of flavored liquids. Its not the act of making pasta that makes it intimidating. Its the centuries of history behind it. The fear of doing something wrong. The age-old battle between tradition and innovation.
Well, Im here to tell you that the Italian pasta tradition is one of innovation! The union of flour and water has taken on hundreds of forms out of necessity, creativity, and, in some cases, pure whimsy. To this day, the history of Italian pasta making has been a never-ending quest to fully realize what can be achieved in a plate of pasta. And this quest has consumed nearly my entire life. In that time, I have come to understand a very crucial thing about Italian cuisine: I know nothing about it.