Lee - Sewing knits from fit to finish: proven methods for conventional machine and serger

Dedication

The future of sewing is in the hands of my daughters generation. To Alex, who will help carry the industry forward.

2018 Quarto Publishing Group USA Inc.

First published in 2018 by Creative Publishing international, an imprint of The Quarto Group,

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Digital edition: 978-1-63159-359-8
Softcover edition: 978-1-58923-938-8

Digital edition published in 2018

Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data

Names: Lee, Linda, 1948- author.
Title: Sewing knits from fit to finish : proven methods for conventional

machine and serger / Linda Lee.

Description: Beverly, MN : Creative Publishing international, 2018. |

Includes index.

Identifiers: LCCN 2017043875 | ISBN 9781589239388 (paperback)

Subjects: LCSH: Machine sewing. | Knit goods. | BISAC: CRAFTS & HOBBIES /

Sewing. | CRAFTS & HOBBIES / Fashion.

Classification: LCC TT715 .L445 2018 | DDC 646.2/044--dc23 LC record available at https://lccn.loc.gov/2017043875

Design, Layout, and illustration: Mattie Wells

Photography: Glenn Scott Photography; except for Lisa Pickel (Blakley), Bliss Studios on pages

Sewing Knits
from
Fit to Finish

Proven Methods for Conventional Machine and Serger

Linda Lee

In the 1980s, I owned a retail fabric store in Topeka, Kansas, called threadWEAR. We specialized in high-fashion fabrics of all kinds. I remember that we usually had only one knit fabric to offercotton interlock in just a few colors. That was it! I never saw much in the way of knits to buy, no one asked for them in the store, and I sure didnt sew with them.

Thirty years later, its a rare day when I dont sew on a knit fabric, my wardrobe is full of knit garments, and the variety of knit fabrics available to the home sewer is enormous. Of course, there is still cotton interlock, but with viscose in all its forms, polyester in prints and solids, and novelty textures and open weaves galore, the world of sewing knits has opened to the garment sewer as no other time in history.

Sewing Knits from Fit to Finish is a comprehensive look at this world of knits. You will learn how to identify the types of knit structures, the different fibers and fiber blends found in modern knits, and the best uses for each of them. How to prepare patterns with good fitting techniques is covered in depth. All of the best sewing and serging techniques for the best seam and hem choices are also included. You will learn how to apply various neck finishes, insert a sleeve, make perfect buttonholes, sew darts, and even how to sew activewear and lingerie.

Its time to sew what you love to wear and make it as professionally as you possibly can. Sewing Knits from Fit to Finish will be your go-to resource for tackling the sometimes intimidating prospect of sewing with knit fabrics.

Other than the singular common characteristic of all knitsthat they stretchthe variety of knits available today is staggering. Some knits stretch very little, while others stretch more than you can imagine. From smooth and lustrous to loopy and bulky, the range of fibers, textures, and looks is alluring. Your sewing will be enhanced once you learn more about the types of knits manufactured today.

Although the variety of knit fabrics is tremendous, they all share, to some degree, the same characteristics. Knits dont ravel, they generally dont wrinkle, they do tend to shrink, and they all stretch, some a little and some a lot. These characteristics make knit fabrics fun (and usually quick and easy) to sew and very comfortable to wear.

Ravel Resistance

Due to the interlocking construction of knits, they do not ravel. This means that it is not necessary to finish the raw edges either inside or outside the garment, which simplifies construction, saves time, and minimizes bulk along the seams and hems.

Many knits look good with simple, smooth, and unfinished cut edges. However, novelty knits, such as sweater knits, have ragged edges that are not as attractive, so edge finishing might be necessary on these specialty knits.

Wrinkle Resistance

Most knits are wrinkle resistant, but their particular fiber content and construction technique does determine the degree of wrinkling. Viscose rayon and bamboo knits tend to wrinkle, sometimes badly, while polyester and nylon are nonwrinkling fibers. ITY (interlocking twist yarns) and textural constructions prevent wrinkling, as well.

Shrinkage

Some knits shrink dramatically, others very little. Most knits tend to shrink more than woven fabrics. See for a way to determine how much your particular fabric will shrink.

A bamboo knit (foreground) and an ITY knit.

Stretch and Recovery

Knits stretch in varying degrees from almost no stretch to 100% beyond their original (prestretched) size, depending on the construction technique, fiber types, addition of elastic fibers (such as spandex), and surface finishes. Recovery, or the way the fabric springs back to its original size after stretching, is important, too. Garments made from knits with good recovery tend not to sag, bag-out, or lose their shape. Some knits are very stable, with little stretch, and can be sewn just like a woven fabric.