Zentgraf - Serger Sewing Basics

Serger Sewing Basics is published by Annies, 306 East Parr Road, Berne, IN 46711. Printed in USA. Copyright 2011, 2012 Annies.

All rights reserved. This publication may not be reproduced in part or in whole without written permission from the publisher.

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ISBN: 978-1-59217-364-8
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To download templates for easy printing, view the download instructions at the end of this book or click the Templates chapter in the Table of Contents.

Have a few minutes? You can create a poufy ruffle and attach it to a pillow, insert a satin ribbon in heirloom lace, add a fun binding to clothing or home decor, and piece a pretty quilt top with fancy decorative threads. All you need to do these things and more is something you may have sitting under a cover of dust in your sewing room or in a box in your closetor maybe it is a new purchase. No matter where it is, armed with this book and your serger you will soon be entering a whole new world of creativitya world that will put you at center stage when family and friends see what you have made!

Throughout the pages of this book, youll learn the keys to successful serger sewing. You will get to know your serger, how and why it works, and what it can do for you. Youll learn the basics of setting up the stitches and how to use them, as well as how to troubleshoot and make adjustments needed to achieve the perfect stitch. Youll also learn about tension, stitch length, cutting width, differential feed, stitching with and without the cutting blades, creating seams, finishing edges and many other basic techniques.

Best of all, once youve learned the basics, then its time to explore your machines creative potential. Combine your imagination with the lush yarns and decorative threads available today. At the back of this book, youll find 13 projects designed for practicing your newfound knowledge and skills. Now is the time to let your serger inspire creative endeavors you never dreamed of before!

What can your serger do for you? A lot! Maybe more than you can even imagine once you get to know how it works and its potential for creativity.

Sergers have come a long way since they were introduced to the home-sewing market in 1969. Todays machines are capable of multiple stitches and uses that still include, but surpass, the basic 2- or 3-thread overlock. Depending on the model, your machine may accommodate five or more threads, have special attachments and even include a computerized stitch advisor.

The basic function of a serger is really quite simpleit simultaneously sews a seam while it trims the fabric edges and encases them in neat, even stitches. Also, like a sewing machine, it has adjustable stitch length and width, adjustable presser foot tensions, and the capability of working with a variety of needles and threads. While there are many functions that a computerized sewing/embroidery machine can do that a serger cant, there also are many functions and techniques exclusive to the sergermaking it a wonderful companion in your sewing room.

Unlike a sewing machine, sergers actually cut the fabric as they sewstitching with a system of loopers and needles rather than with a bobbin and needle. Newer sergers also feature a differential feed system that eliminates stretching and puckering that can happen when you are stitching.

With a serger, you can create reversible projects with ease. The overlock finishes edges with stitches that look equally nice from each side, and the flat lock features decorative stitches on one side of the fabric and a ladder stitch on the opposite side.

Its easy to hem linens with rolled edges or to hem knits with the cover stitch. And of course, adding decorative embellishments to your serger projects is part of the fun. With the wide array of decorative threads available, you can create amazing accents for both the surface and edges of your fabrics.

Meet Your Machine

The first step in befriending your machine is to understand its features and how to use and control them. Take the time to familiarize yourself with the parts of your serger and how they work by reading your manual and comparing it to your machine. The following illustration is a generalized look at todays serger parts ().

Figure 1.1

A) Chain Stitch Looper (Part of the Lower Looper System)

B) Feed Dogs

C) Hand Wheel

D) Lower Knife

E) Lower Looper

F) Lower Looper Tensions

G) Needles

I) Presser Foot

H) Needle Thread Tensions

J) Spool Holders for Thread

K) Thread Guide

L) Upper Looper Tension

M) Upper Knife

N) Upper Looper

O) Front Cover

P) Stitch Finger

Q) Differential Feed

R) Stitch Length

The Basic Overlock Stitch

Unlike a sewing machine that forms stitches with a needle and bobbin, the basic overlock is formed with needles and loopers. As the fabric is fed through the machine, the upper looper forms a loop that lies on top of the fabric, while the lower looper forms a loop that lies underneath the fabric, encasing the edge. The needle(s) thread catches and secures the interlocking loops to the fabric; they also lock at the fabric edge.

Mastering the Controls

Even if your serger has a computerized stitch advisor that shows you the exact settings for each stitch, its important to know how the controls work and what they do so you can make adjustments when needed. Different fabrics and threads react differently to serger stitching, so you will very often be making adjustments in order to get that perfect stitch for your project. Once you get to know your serger, you wont be afraid to touch those tension dials or to make other adjustments. In fact, that will become part of the fun of serging!

Cutting Width & Stitch Width

One of the best time-saving features of a serger is the cutting system. It trims the fabric with two bladesone upper and one lowerthat work like scissors to cut the fabric. On most sergers, the upper blade can be moved out of the way for cover stitches and some flat-lock applications.