Nancy Zieman - Serge With Confidence

Serge

with confidence

Nancy Zieman

2006 by Nancy Zieman
Published by

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Library of Congress Catalog Number: 2005934239

ISBN 13-digit: 978-0-87349-855-5
ISBN 10-digit: 0-87349-855-0
eISBN: 978-0-8734-9855-5

Edited by Maria L. Turner
Illustrated by Laure Noe
Photographs by Dale Hall and Keith Glasgow
Nancy's Notions editorial staff: Pat Hahn and Diane Dhein
Printed in China

Table of Contents

chapter
Serger
Quest

A serger may be compact, but dont let that fool you. This specialty machine stitches up to 1,500 stitches per minute, trims the seam and overcasts the edge at the same time! The sergers popularity has spread so fast that you neednt go on a quest to find one. Sergers are available from just about every major sewing machine company.

What is a Serger?

A serger is a compact machine that uses loopers instead of a bobbin.

Sergers stitch the seam, trim the excess seam allowance and overcast the edge all in one operation. This process gives you professional-looking garments and crafts in a fraction of the time it would take to complete them using a conventional sewing machine.

Most sergers stitch at speeds between 1,300 and 1,500 stitches per minute. Thats twice the speed of a conventional sewing machine, which stitches between 600 and 1,000 stitches per minute.

Who Needs a Serger?

Anyone who sews and wants projects to look professional. A serger easily finishes seams and hems.

Those who sew a lot of knit fabrics. A serger stitches knit seams without stretching them out of shape.

People who want to venture into new design capabilities without using decorative stitches or embroidery. A serger performs stitch variations and is able to utilize decorative threads.

Sewers who want to finish sewing projects fast and efficiently. A serger stitches at twice the speed of a conventional machine.

Note from Nancy

Keep in mind that a serger will not replace your sewing machine. It complements your sewing machine with enhanced speed, neatness and creativity. From eliminating raveling seams to creating easy embellishments, a serger is definitely worth considering!

Selecting a Serger

Ask yourself these questions:

How will I use the serger?

Sergers can have a wide variety of stitches and attachments, so it is a good idea to know how you plan to use the machine. If you are merely planning to finish seams, a simple 3/4-thread machine is probably all you need. However, if you plan to cover stitch hems, as in ready-to-wear and want the latest in decorative features, consider a serger that offers a bit more.

What features are important?

Check out the available features and decide how often you would use them to determine if they would be beneficial. ?

Which types of sergers are available for purchase?

Most companies offer several different models. These are the six most common types:

- 3/4-Thread Overlock

- 2/3/4-Thread Overlock

- 2/3/4/5-Thread Overlock

- Overlock/Coverlock/Chain Stitch Combination

- Overlock/Coverlock/Chain Stitch with Deco Cover Thread
Attachment

- Coverlock/Chain Stitch

What kind of support will the dealer and manufacturer offer?

Knowing you have a network that can provide information and inspiration is a definite plus. Look for:

- Knowledgeable sales staff who can answer questions quickly and informatively

- An on-site repair technician

- An active club or support group to help you learn more about your machine

Do I receive free lessons?

Lessons are a must! If you have never sewn on a serger before, you not only need to learn how to thread it, but also some basic maneuvering skills.

What price range am I considering?

The amount you spend will be determined by the machines features. The price of any serger increases with the stitch capabilities and exclusive features such as automatic needle threaders, Jet-Air Threading, ease of tension control, decorative stitching, etc.

Anatomy of a Serger

Note from Nancy

Your serger may not look exactly like the one shown above, but it will have similar components. Check your instruction manual to see where these parts are located on your machine.

Tension Controls determine how fast and how much thread is dispersed at a time to achieve a balanced stitch.

Cone Holders position cones of thread and keep them from moving as the thread unwinds.

Thread Guide Pole or Thread Antenna holds the first thread guides. These first guides keep the thread up and away from the spool to prevent tangling. The thread antenna should always be raised completely when serging.

Thread Guides hold the thread on its way to the needle or looper to produce an evenly formed stitch.

Hand Wheel moves the needles and loopers so they can form a stitch. The wheel moves by itself when you press the foot pedal or it can be moved manually to take a few test stitches. Always turn the hand wheel toward you unless your instructions specify otherwise.