Philcox Jolyon - Croatia Travel Guide

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Croatias rare blend of glamour and authenticity make it Europes it destination, where beaches vie for attention with cultural treasures, ancient architecture and time-tested folk traditions.

Hvar () KELLY CHENG TRAVEL PHOTOGRAPHY / GETTY IMAGES

Despite its reputation as Europes vacation hot spot, Croatia hasnt given in to mass tourism. The Mediterranean As It Once Was motto of Croatias tourist board may be overblown in popular destinations where development has taken a firm hold, but pockets of authentic culture can be found and theres still plenty to discover off the grid. This country in transition, on the brink between Mitteleuropa and Mediterranean, offers good news for visitors on all budgets: Croatia is as diverse as its landscapes. Some of the more popular Adriatic locales come with hefty price tags in the summer months, while continental Croatia costs a fraction of what youll pay on the coast. The chic and trendy outposts may make you forget that a civil war raged through Croatia in the 1990s. The way in which the country has bounced back is a sign of its peoples resilience people who are remarkable hosts once you cross the touristlocal barrier.

Theres a buzz and an undeniable star appeal to Croatias coast. Youll get glitz and glamour in Dubrovnik and Hvar, where night action and celebrity-spotting, designer cocktail in hand, is de rigueur, and fancy yachts dock in droves. For those wanting peace and quiet, hideaways aplenty wait to be discovered, including remote lighthouse islets, fetching fishing villages, secluded coves and Robinson-Crusoe-style atolls. Families flock to the string of safe beaches, and there are activities galore for all ages.

Everyone visits the nearly 2000km-long coastline, with over 1000 islands, but most people skip the unsung beauties of inland Croatia. Enjoy a slice of pristine farmland in one of the rural hotels or agro-tourisms, roam rugged wilderness or get active hike, bike, paraglide, sail, raft and canoe. Zagreb may play second fiddle to nearby Vienna, but this pocket-sized capital has an attractive cafe life, a new contemporary art museum, ancient attractions and a jam-packed roster of festivals and events.

Croatia has been slowly crawling its way up to the top of Europes culinary rankings. Its chief assets are locally sourced, prime-quality ingredients from the land and sea, creatively prepared by celeb chefs or cooked up home-style in family-run taverns. Some of these gastronomic havens require a trek, but the minute you taste the food youll realise the effort was worth it. The wine regions of Croatia are as burgeoning as the country itself, and its olive oils (particularly those of Istria) are getting top awards.

Plitvice Paradise

A turquoise ribbon of crystal water and gushing waterfalls in the forested heart of continental Croatia, Plitvice Lakes National Park ( ) is an awesome sight. There are dozens of lakes from 4km-long Kozjak to reed-fringed ponds all in an incredible hue thats a product of the karst terrain. Travertine expanses covered with mossy plants divide the lakes, while boardwalks allow you to step right over this exquisite water world. Follow hiking trails through beech, spruce, fir and pine trees to escape the crowds on the lake shore.

CHRISTOPHER GROENHOUT / GETTY IMAGES

All That Is Dubrovnik

Croatias most popular attraction, Dubrovnik ( ) is a Unesco World Heritage Site for good reason. This immense walled city was relentlessly shelled during Croatias 1990s Homeland War. Now, its mighty walls, monasteries, medieval churches, graceful squares and fascinating residential quarters all look magnificent again. For an unrivalled perspective of this Adriatic pearl, first take the cable car up to Mount Sr, then get up close to the city by walking Dubrovniks walls, as history unfolds from the battlements.

JEAN-PIERRE LESCOURRET / GETTY IMAGES

Coffee Fix in Zagreb

Elevated to the status of ritual, having coffee in one of Zagrebs outdoor cafes ( ) is a must, involving hours of people-watching, gossiping and soul-searching, unhurried by waiters. To experience the truly European and vibrant cafe culture, grab a table along the pedestrian cobbled Tkalieva, with its endless street-side cafes, or one of the pavement tables on Trg Petra Preradovia or Bogovieva. Dont miss the Saturday morning pica , the coffee-drinking and people-watching ritual in the city centre that forms the peak of Zagrebs weekly social calendar.

RICHARD IANSON / GETTY IMAGES

Marvel at Mljet

Cloaked in dense pine forests, pristine Mljet ( ) is an island paradise. Legend has it that Odysseus was marooned here for seven years, and its easy to appreciate why hed take his time leaving. The entire western section is a national park, where youll find two sublime, cobalt-coloured lakes, an island monastery and the sleepy little port of Pomena, which is as pretty as a picture. Dont neglect eastern Mljet, home to great cove beaches and the gastronomic heaven that is Stermasi restaurant.

MARIANNA SULIC / GETTY IMAGES

Hit the Waves in Bol

Bol ( ), on the southern coast of Bra Island, is home to the illustrious Zlatni Rat beach, with its tongue-like shape and golden pebbles. The town is a favourite among windsurfers: the channel between the islands of Bra and Hvar provides ideal wind conditions, thanks to the westerly maestral that typically blows between May and late September. The wind picks up slowly in the morning, an excellent time for beginners to hit the waves. By afternoon, the winds are very strong, perfect for those looking to get a real-deal adrenalin kick.