Executive Editor: Joy Aquilino
Editor: Martha Moran
Art Director: Jess Morphew
Designer: Chin-Yee Lai
Production Manager: Alyn Evans
Photographers: Simon Lee; Scott David Plumlee
Text, step-by-step, still life photography, and all illustrations copyright 2009 by Scott David Plumlee
Photography of finished jewelry copyright 2009 by Watson-Guptill Publications
Published in 2009 by Watson-Guptill Publications, an imprint of Crown Publishing, a division of Random House, Inc., New York
www.watsonguptill.com
www.crownpublishing.com
eISBN: 978-0-307-58696-4
Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data
Plumlee, Scott David.
Chain and bead jewelry creative connections : new techniques for wire-wrapping and bead-setting / Scott David Plumlee.
p. cm.
Includes index.
1. Jewelry making. 2. Metal-work. 3. Beadwork. I. Title.
TT212.P54 2009
745.5942dc22
2008044366
This book contains general instructions and techniques on making chain jewelry and findings. When working with the tools and materials presented in this book, readers are strongly cautioned to use proper care and judgment, to follow the applicable manufacturers directions, and to seek prompt medical attention in case of an injury. In addition, readers are advised to keep all potentially harmful materials away from children. The author and the publisher expressly disclaim any liability, loss, or risk, personal or otherwise, which is incurred as a consequence, directly or indirectly, of the use and application of any of the contents of this book.
Cover Design: Chin-Yee Lai
Front cover photograph: Simon Lee
v3.1
ACKNOWLEDGMENTS
I wish to dedicate this book to everyone who believed in me, especially:
My loving parents, Larry and Shirley, for their encouragement and support
My brother, Jeff; his wife, Erika; and their two boys, Isaac and Nathan, for all the smiles
All the students who took workshops and encouraged me to write this book series
All the patrons who purchased my jewelry art and invested in my business
All the teaching institutions that invited me to lead jewelry-making workshops
All the fine art retail galleries that retail my jewelry and provide representation
Joy Aquilino and all the fine folks at Watson-Guptill/Crown/Random House
Tim Sheriff at Swanstrom Tools, for all the hard work on the mandrel-tip pliers
Anthony Squillacci at APAC, for making my findings and student supply kits
Judy and Richard Walker, for providing a writers hideout in the hills of L.A.
Spencer Baum at Rio Grande, for all the digital images and catalog promotion
Sophie Lenoir, for the rooftop photo shoot to capture my face in front of Taos Mountain
Spider, for the technical proofreading and authentic Japanese 12-2 bracelet
Cynthia Eid, for all the technical information about working with Argentium
Teresa Fillman at Lortone, for the promotional tumblers to test and photograph
ABOUT THE AUTHOR
SCOTT DAVID PLUMLEE has been inspiring a new generation of chain jewelers over the past decade, publishing books and leading workshops nationwide. His previous book, Handcrafting Chain and Bead Jewelry, is a best seller in the jewelry-making field. A world traveler and jack-of-all-trades, Scott has studied ancient cultures and craft designs all over the globe and currently resides in sunny Taos, New Mexico.
I challenge myself to create innovative chain designs by utilizing curiosity as a guide and creativity as a catalyst to find new solutions to the age-old question of how to combine silver and gemstones. Over the past decade, I have found that the path of least resistance in creating new designs is simply to be aware of the possibilities within the happy accident and explore my imagination with reckless abandonment. By employing creativity, I can turn the intangible images in my mind from sketchbook into sterling silver wire creations that are comfortable to wear and stunning to behold.Scott David Plumlee
CONTENTS
PREFACE
Come exercise your bravado and explore beaded chain jewelry with me, as I lead you on a wire-working adventure. From a chaotic wire-wrapping approach to precise bead-embellishment techniques that are set into ancient chain patterns, this book has something to satisfy and challenge every level of jewelry artisanship. Ill show you how to set beads and assemble them into various chain designs and jump-ring techniques that connect them in interesting and innovative ways. For those of you curious enough to keep reading, let me tell you how I translated my creativity into the printed page.
Over the past two years, since the publication of my first book, Handcrafting Chain and Bead Jewelry, I have had a chance to travel the United States, leading over seventy jewelry workshops nationwide. This experience allowed me to test my teaching strategies for the craft of beaded chain design, fortifying me with a deeper understanding of how to teach others what I know and to measure student comprehension through in-class feedback to even the most challenging chain and bead techniques.
Along the way, Ive found new approaches to old techniques, like rewriting the rules of wire wrapping by using an electric screwdriver to create Chaos beaded beads. Ive also developed specialized mandrel-tip pliers to precisely set beads onto headpins, which alleviates some beaded chain frustrations. Modern science and technology have been explored to offer a variety of metal finishes, from patina darkening to a tumbled shine. I revisited ancient chain patterns with an eye on setting gemstone beads and developed a variety of unique ways to seamlessly connect metal chain and gemstone setting.
The first two chapters cover wire and bead basics and then continue into the essential chain-making and bead-setting techniques. These basics are developed more in the next two chapters, which feature Chaos and Tornado wire-wrapping techniques that progresses from simple earrings to embellished bracelets. More complex techniques are explored in the later chapters, where gemstone beads are used to embellish a variety of age-old chains, from the Byzantine, Flower, Japanese, Inca Puo, and European to the infamous six-sided Snake chain. I have designed beautiful gallery-quality jewelry projects that utilize each technique; all are presented in photo-illustrated, step-by-step instructions, rendering even the most difficult and complicated techniques understandable and doable.
The appendix outlines the basics of working with Argentium silver, and headpin making. There are illustrated chain configurations at the end of the book, which I think youll refer to often, as well as a resource section that tells you where you can find all the tools, materials, and supplies used in the techniques and projects in this book.