Prueitt Elisabeth - Tartine All Day: Modern Recipes for the Home Cook

ACKNOWLEDGMENTS

Thanks to: Chad, my taster, always; my editor, the patient, wonderful Lorena Jones; the team at Ten Speed Press; the staff of Tartine Bakery and Manufactory; my agent Kitty Cowles, the absolute best; Juliette Cezzar, a whiz in design and the best to hang out with; Paige Green and her team, with whom Id always go through Groundhog Day; Maria Zizka, always there to test just one more recipe; and Jessica Washburn, partner in the countless cups of tea and conversations about food and history that have shaped this book.

Also thanks to: Mia Manamea, Bridge Grant, Launa Conti, Valkyrie Modesto, and Gillian Masland. And many thanks to Camryn Mothersbaugh, for her good humor, joke telling, drawing skills, and dedication in spending so many afternoons with Archer so that I could accomplish this book and so much more.

Thank you to all of the women I have worked for and with, and those I have gotten to know along my way in the business of food and drinkwriters, farmers, chefs, vintners, bakers, educators, and makers of all kinds. You each create a better place for more women to find their space and a louder, clearer voice. Keep doing that, and keep stepping it up.

BASICS

GREMOLATA

Makes cup/10g

Gremolata is a classic Italian condiment of finely chopped lemon zest, parsley, and garlic. Depending on the dish youre finishing, you may substitute another bold ingredient for one of the three components or add it to the mix. Add horseradish to Gremolata when used to finish beef stew, for example, or capers when serving with grilled fish. Gremolata can be made in less than 5 minutes with ingredients you are likely to have on hand and adds a lovely flavor lift to both rich and simple dishes.

1 lemon

1 bunch flat-leaf parsley, leaves stripped from stems

2 cloves garlic, peeled

Pinch of sea salt

Finely grate the zest of the lemon into a small bowl. Finely chop the parsley and garlic. Add the parsley, garlic, and salt to the bowl and stir to blend. Use immediately.

AIOLI

Makes about 1 cups/300g

The necessary labor required to make aioli belies its utter simplicity, both in ingredients and presentation. If youre making it alone, there are a few tricks that can help, and the outcome is entirely worth the effort. Aioli, which comes from the Provenal words ai, meaning garlic, and oli, meaning oil, is traditionally used as the central condiment in a Grand Aioli, a Provenal meal at which blanched vegetables, potatoes, and salt cod are served. Aioli unites textures and flavors in anything from a complex seafood stew to simple summer tomatoes on toast. Traditionally it is made only of oil and garlic, and occasionally with egg. I sometimes like to add a splash of lemon juice or vinegar, which makes it more of a proper mayonnaise.

Make sure that all of the ingredients are at room temperature.

A good-quality olive oil is a must. Choose one that is mild and fruity, rather than a grassy or peppery oil.

Winter garlic will be stronger flavored than spring and summer garlic, so adjust the amount as necessary. If the cloves have little green germs in them (particularly in winter), remove them as theyll make the aioli sharper in flavor.

Purists shy away from adding lemon juice or vinegar, but I tend to like a splash of either because a little acidity goes well with the richness of the sauce.

To ease the whisking process, dampen a kitchen towel and place it under the bowl you are using to anchor it. Alternatively, use the traditional mortar and pestle (although your yield will be limited to the capacity of your mortar).

1 or 2 cloves garlic

Sea salt

1 large egg yolk, at room temperature

cup/160ml olive oil

cup/80ml neutral-flavored vegetable oil, such as safflower, sunflower, or grapeseed oil

1 to 2 tsp water, at room temperature, or more as needed (optional)

Splash of lemon juice or white vinegar (optional)

Place the garlic and a couple of pinches of salt in a mortar and pound with a pestle to make a smooth paste. Transfer to a bowl, add the egg yolk, and use a whisk or mortar to mix in a few drops of the olive oil. Continue whisking and adding the olive oil drop by drop until you have a thick mixture, and then gradually pour in the vegetable oil in a slow, thin stream. The finished sauce should have the same consistency as lightly whipped cream. If it gets thicker than that, you can thin it by adding water 1 tsp at a time until it reaches the desired consistency. Add the splash of lemon juice or vinegar and stir in. Taste and adjust the seasoning.

Store, tightly covered, in the refrigerator for up to 2 days.

BAGNA CAUDA

Makes about 1 cup/240ml

Literally translated, bagna cauda means hot bath. This Piedmontese sauce of anchovy and garlic is an ingenious melding of ingredients that are warmed over low heat in olive oil and butter until melting, which may seem an unusual pair, but the butter smoothes the pungent edges perfectly. The traditional accompaniments of raw vegetables are sublime when dipped in the warm sauce, rich in cooked salty bits of fish and garlic. I love to make this when I have the first asparagus of the year, a head of Romanesco, or bright gypsy peppers. Bagna Cauda is also delicious drizzled over cooked greens, such as spigarello, broccoli rabe, or kale. Cooked beans, such as Scarlet Runner or navy beans, are equally good dressed with it. You could make a whole meal of boiled potatoes, Romano beans, and hard-cooked eggs, and good crusty bread with warm Bagna Cauda (made complete with a glass of a young Piedmontese wine).

Make sure the garlic doesnt color while in the pan. If it does, an acrid flavor will permeate the sauce.

4 cloves garlic

8 olive oil- or salt-packed anchovies, rinsed

tsp sea salt

cup/180ml olive oil

cup/60g unsalted butter

Combine the garlic, anchovies, and salt in a mortar and pound to a paste using a pestle.

In a small saucepot, warm the oil and butter together over low heat. Once the butter has melted, stir in the garlic-anchovy paste and cook gently but not so long that the garlic sizzles. Serve warm or hot.

Store, tightly covered, in the refrigerator for up to 5 days.

SALSA VERDE

Makes about cup/120ml

It amazes me how many seemingly simple dishes come alive when served with Salsa Verde. While some sauces are clearly best suited for either beef or fowl, pork or fish, this Italian standard seems to renounce categorization. Traditionally made with parsley, any number of herbs can be added to shift its flavors to best fit whatever youre pairing it with. If I were planning to serve it with chicken or fish, I might add tarragon. With lamb, oregano, marjoram, or mint would become the central herb. Salsa Verde brings out the inherent sweetness of grilled vegetables and even works alongside a fresh cheese, such as feta or mozzarella, with a summery tomato salad or an omelet; use it liberally and without hesitation.