The Editors of Saveur - Saveur: the new classics cookbook

THE EDITORS OF SAVEUR

INTRODUCTION

W hat is comfort food? It is food that gives us both pleasure and a sense of easea plate of something nice that delivers well-being along with sustenance.

For many Americanseven those of us who didnt grow up with a nonna who folded her own agnolotti or lingered over a bubbling pot of meat sauce for the Sunday family pranzo the language of comfort food is largely Italian.

A go-to weeknight pasta, a simple assemblage of peak-season tomatoes, torn basil, and fresh mozzarella, the one-pot roast with polenta on the sidethese are the gifts of home-style Italian cooking. We value them for their familiarity, their endless variety, their tireless flexibilityand for the ample comfort we find in the bottom of a bowl of pillow-light gnocchi and rich rag.

In the following pages, youll find easy takes on such classics as bruschetta and meatballs as well as bigger projects like a whole porchetta and a pizza with butternut squash and smoked mozzarellaall of them worth investigating. Weve traveled up and down the boot to bring you these satisfying dishes from the Italian kitchen that stir the appetite and taste like home, no matter where your home may be.

ADAM SACHS

SAVEUR EDITOR-IN-CHIEF

STARTERS

TOMATO BRUSCHETTA WITH OLIVES & BASIL

Bruschetta (from the Roman dialect verb bruscare , to toast, burn) is believed to have originated in central Italy, where locals would toast stale bread over hot coals, rub it with garlic, and then use it to sample freshly pressed olive oil. Here, briny olives liven up a classic topping of tomatoes and basil.

1 cup pitted kalamata olives, finely chopped

cup extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for drizzling

cup finely chopped fresh basil

4 ripe tomatoes, cored and diced

Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste

1 12-oz. loaf ciabatta, sliced thick on the bias

1 clove garlic, halved lengthwise

SERVES 6

Combine olives, cup oil, basil, tomatoes, salt, and pepper in a bowl and set aside. Heat a cast-iron grill pan over medium-high. Brush bread with remaining oil. Grill bread, flipping once, until crisp and slightly charred on edges, about 5 minutes. Transfer bread to a cutting board and rub with garlic. Top with tomato mixture and drizzle with oil to serve.

APERITIVI

The term aperitivi refers to beverages designed to stimulate both the appetite and the predinner gathering at which Italians most frequently enjoy them. Typically herbaceous and citrusy, these drinks are almost always bitter and dry and are usually served with small bites to prepare the stomach for the meal to come. Although any cocktail can serve as an aperitivo , these three are staples of the Italian cocktail hour.

AMERICANO Created in the mid-1800s by Gaspare Campari using his eponymous aperitif, the Americano was known as the Milano-Torino until the 20th century, when American tourists took strongly to the quaffable premeal drink. The bitter orangeinfused liqueur is joined with equal parts sweet Italian vermouth and club soda and served over ice.

NEGRONI Reputedly named after Count Camillo Negroni, and first poured around 1920, this now-iconic drink evolved from a desire to give the Americano a bit more oomph. Dry gin replaces club soda for a more intense cocktail that can be served up or on the rocks.

APEROL SPRITZ Similar to Campari but lighter and lower in alcohol, Aperol is the star in this Italian aperitivo that has become a summery favorite throughout Italy as well as abroad. The vibrant orange liqueur is joined by prosecco (dry Italian sparkling wine) and club soda for a bright, bubbly drink. Other Italian amari (herbal liqueurs), such as Montenegro, also make great spritzes when mixed with seltzer or sparkling wine.

FRIED ANCHOVY-STUFFED ZUCCHINI BLOSSOMS

In Rome, the arrival of zucchini blossoms coincides with the arrival of summer, so do as the Romans do, and kick off the season with this signature antipasto. Light and airy, with a subtle squash flavor, the flowers deliver a delicate contrast to the salty anchovies in the filling.

Canola oil, for frying

24 anchovies, drained

24 zucchini blossoms, stamens discarded

1 cup flour

2 tbsp. baking powder

Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste

1 12-oz. bottle lager-style beer or seltzer, chilled

MAKES 24

Heat 2 oil in a 6-qt. saucepan until a deep-fry thermometer reads 375F. Place 1 anchovy fillet in each blossom and roll lengthwise to encase fillet. Whisk flour, baking powder, salt, and pepper in a bowl; whisk in beer until a batter forms. Working in batches and holding stems, dip blossoms in batter and then fry until golden and crisp, 12 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, transfer to paper towels to drain. Season with salt.

SQUASH BLOSSOMS

Squash blossoms, or fiori di zucca , can be fried, baked, or eaten raw. The male blossoms are more popular for cooking and can be used with or without their stamens removed. Look for blossoms that are vibrant and fresh, and try to use them as soon as possible after theyre picked. Like any flower, theyll gradually wilt and begin to discolor. To maximize their shelf life, rinse in cool water and air-dry, then gently wrap in paper towels and store in a sealed container in the refrigerator.

CROSTINI WITH RICOTTA & SOPPRESSATA

The spiciness of a good soppressata (dry salami) makes it an ideal partner to creamy, fluffy ricotta cheese, with the contrast bringing out the best texture and flavor in each element. If you have time, make the ricotta at home (see sidebar); homemade tends to be sweeter than store-bought.

1 12-oz. loaf ciabatta or other peasant-style bread, sliced thick on the bias

cup extra-virgin olive oil

1 clove garlic, halved lengthwise

cups homemade (see sidebar) or store-bought ricotta

1624 -thick rounds soppressata

SERVES 46

Heat a cast-iron grill pan over medium-high. Brush bread with oil. Grill bread, flipping once, until crisp and slightly charred on edges, about 5 minutes. Transfer bread to a cutting board and rub with garlic. Spread about 1 tbsp. ricotta on top of each toasted piece; top with 34 rounds soppressata.

HOMEMADE RICOTTA

Ricotta is traditionally made by reheating whey left over from cheese making, but it is easy to make a version of it at home using whole milk and rennet. The latter consists of enzymes that act as a coagulant and that produce the sweet, earthy flavor of old-world ricotta.