RELISH EASY SAUCES, SEASONINGS AND CONDIMENTS TO MAKE AT HOME RELISH EASY SAUCES, SEASONINGS AND CONDIMENTS TO MAKE AT HOME SONIA CABANO STYLING BY BRITA DU PLESSIS PHOTOGRAPHY BY SEAN CALITZ Contents
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Relishv.t. to like the taste of: to be pleased with: to enjoy. v.i. to have an agreeable taste: to give pleasure. n. an agreeable peculiar taste or quality: enjoyable quality: power of pleasing: inclination or taste for: appetite: just enough to give a flavour: a sauce. |
Introduction Capturing and enhancing flavour has preoccupied passionate cooks throughout the ages, and the methods employed are as popular today as ever: salting, pickling, smoking, drying, preserving in brine, alcohol, sugar or oil, or simply seasoning with aromatic rubs, pastes, marinades and dressings. A well-stocked larder speaks of the highest level of a cooks craft, of knowing how to enhance flavour naturally and how to preserve the fruits of the harvest from one season to the next. No cook means to serve bland or indifferent food.
This book is intended as a handy guide for anyone who cares about their palate, their wallet and their health. Home-made preparations are usually less pricey than store-bought ones and are certainly free from harsh-tasting and unnecessary fillers, additives, colourants or chemical preservatives. Using a few easily obtainable pieces of equipment, plus the best ingredients you can find and some common sense and skill, you can liven up your everyday cooking with the marvellous bounty which nature blesses us with throughout the year. You will reap other rewards too: as your palate adjusts to the purity and freshness of home-made preparations, youll start enjoying time spent cooking and eating. An added bonus is that all the recipes make superb gifts, so youll be twice blessed for your labours! Ever since I was a child in my mothers kitchen I have been fascinated by the craft of preserving foods. I love to imagine how, through the generations, countless hours have gone into perfecting a luscious preserve or a seductive spice blend with which to please and nourish someone else.
The recipes on these pages embody many years of accumulated knowledge, both my own, through experimentation, and that of others, which they have passed on to me. Some dishes and recipes are seemingly imprinted into my cultural DNA, while others are based on careful research into the work of fellow cooks who are equally filled with a passion for flavour and for making the most of food. Writing this book has given me great pleasure, and I hope that you will thoroughly enjoy using it.
flavoured salts and sugars
Salt and sugar, two of the most important flavour enhancers in your kitchen, complement each other by contrast. Just as a judicious pinch of salt heightens the sweetness of say, a fluffy meringue or richly golden caramel sauce, so a spoonful of sugar stirred into a savoury soup or stew towards the end of cooking will bring about an indefinable, but well-rounded, balance. Salt and sugar lessen bitterness and acidity in food.
They draw moisture to the surface before and during cooking, and both play a key role in browning, an intricate process that creates rich, complex flavours in grilled, roasted, fried or baked foods. Salt and sugar also act as preservatives, inhibiting certain bacterial or enzymatic processes that occur during food preparation and cooking. Salt and sugar are absorbent and carry other flavours very well, which makes experimenting with your own sweet or savoury blends heaps of fun. Whether you stick to simple pairings, such as plain celery salt or cinnamon sugar, or concoct heady, complex blends with exotic ingredients like ginger, vanilla and lime, start by making small amounts until you hit upon your own master blends. And remember, everyones taste buds are unique. Its up to you to tweak your favourite recipes to get the exact balance that satisfies you.
Turn up the heat or bring the salt content down Feel free to experiment! *COOKS NOTE: If you live in a humid area or near the coast, you can prevent your dry seasoning blends from clumping by adding t (2.5ml) rice flour to every cup (250ml) of seasoning. Mix well before storing in an airtight container. Alternatively, just crush the salt mix again with your pestle and proceed as usual. Cooks all-purpose salt Adjust the flavourings according to your preference. Use as you would seasoned salt. (Do this in batches, using a third of the ingredients at a time.) 2.Stir into the salt until thoroughly blended. (Do this in batches, using a third of the ingredients at a time.) 2.Stir into the salt until thoroughly blended.
Store in an airtight container, preferably a glass jar with a screw-top lid. Will keep for six months. COOKS NOTES: *For a zesty Mediterranean touch, add 1 T (15ml) each of ground fennel seeds, dried grated lemon or orange zest, sun-dried tomato powder (see ) and grated Parmesan. A teaspoon (5ml) of crushed cardamom seeds adds a mysterious floral note. *Bay leaf powder If you cant find bay leaf powder in stores, you can make your own by grinding dried bay leaves to a fine powder in an electric coffee grinder or with a mortar and pestle. *Paprika There are many different varieties; Hungarian paprika can vary from sweet and mild to very pungent, while Spanish paprika, or pimentn, comes in sweet, bittersweet (hot) and spicy varieties.
USES: *Sprinkle cooks salt over meat, seafood or vegetables before roasting or grilling. *Use to season soups, sauces, stews, risottos or pilaffs, pastas and cheese dishes. *Mix 1 T (15ml) cooks salt with cup (125ml) sunflower or canola oil, 3 T (45ml) tomato ketchup, 1 T (15ml) sweet Indonesian soy sauce and 1 T (15ml) honey and use as a moist rub for roast chicken, fish, lamb or pork.
Chinese spicy salt-and-pepper mix
Reddish brown Szechuan peppercorns are less pungent than black peppercorns and have a warm, citrusy aroma. Szechuan pepper has a characteristic tingling, mildly numbing effect on the lips and tongue and is an essential ingredient in the five-spice or ten-spice powder so prized in regional Chinese cooking. Buy fresh whole peppercorns, toast in a dry pan until aromatic, then grind.
Store in an airtight container. Good with grilled pork ribs, beef kebabs or grilled calamari. Makes 3 T (45ml) 2 t (10ml) Szechuan peppercorns 2 T (30ml) coarse sea salt t (2.5ml) five-spice mix (see ) 1.Toast the peppercorns in a dry frying pan over medium heat for about 2 minutes without scorching. Stir in the salt and five-spice mix and toast for another minute. 2.Leave to cool completely, then grind in a food processor or coffee grinder until fine. Keeps for up to eight weeks in an airtight container, after which the oils in the peppercorns will begin to lose their volatility and flavour.