Howarth Esme - Ottolenghi Simple: A Cookbook

Acknowledgments

It is my name that appears on the cover of this book but there are two very important peoplewho, really, deserve similar credit. Their distinct fingerprints can be found on every single page.

Tara Wigley has worked on a number of my books, always bringing in an unparalleled, thoughtful contribution. With Ottolenghi SIMPLE, her latest baby, it was Tara who suggested breaking down the recipes into different kinds of simple. Her experience as a cook as well as a talented writer was instrumental in giving this book its particular shape and flavor.

Esme Howarth, whose official job description as a recipe tester doesnt do justice to her real input, was involved in assessing, almost clinically, every dish that made the final cut. Her ideas are dotted throughout the book in the shape of complete recipes, as well as the different accents and light touches that make a good thing the best of its kind.

Thanks to Claudine Boulstridge, who cooked every single dish here, fed it to her family, and fed us constructive criticism. Thank you also to Ixta Belfrage for many a clever suggestion.

I am happy and grateful for my long-term collaboration with Jonathan Lovekin, who photographed the recipes, and Caz Hildebrand, who designed the book. Thank you both! And thank you, Wei Tang, for the plates, the props, and the two silver ducks.

Particular thanks to Noam Barfor knowing and telling it as it isand to Cornelia Staeubli and Sami Tamimi.

I would also like to express my gratitude to a bunch of people, on both sides of the Atlantic, who were crucial enablers: Felicity Rubinstein, Kim Witherspoon, Lizzy Gray, Louise McKeever, Rebecca Smart, Jake Lingwood, Mark Hutchinson, Gemma Bell, Sarah Bennie, Diana Riley, Helen Everson, Aaron Wehner, Lorena Jones, and Sandi Mendelson.

Thank you also to Gitai Fisher, Sarah Joseph, Bob Granleese, Melissa Denes, Josh Williams, and Nichole Dean.

Lastly, I want to thank my family and extended family: Karl Allen, Max, and little Flynn; Michael and Ruth Ottolenghi; Tirza, Danny, Shira, Yoav, and Adam Florentin; and Pete and Greta Allen, Shachar Argov, Helen Goh, Garry Chang, Alex Meitlis, Ivo Bisignano, Lulu Banquete, Tamara Meitlis, Keren Margalit, Yoram Ever-Hadani, Itzik Lederfeind, Ilana Lederfeind, and Amos, Ariela, and David Oppenheim.

Yotam Ottolenghi

Tara would like to thank the following for helping her out with their advice, appetites and support: Vicki Howard, Cornelia Staeubli, Carenza Parker, Sala Fitt, Suzanna and Richard Roxburgh, Alison and Alec Chrystal, Sophie OLeary, and Chris Wigley. Vicki, for her advice (with the words); Cornelia, for her advice (with the everything); Carenza, for her appetite (for the food and washing up!); Sala, for her appetite (for the wine); Suzanna, Richard, Alison, Alec, and Sophie, for their support (with the kids); and Chris for all of the above and so much more.

Tara Wigley

Esme would like to thank: her husband, Mark Howarth, for his constant support and eager taste buds. Her enormous 39-week-old bump that let her off without too much morning sickness, so she could continue cooking and tasting during the making of this book. Her parents, Waring and Alison Robinson, for feeding all creativity in her lifeespecially her mother for her rice and dal lunches and delicious slow-cooked stews. All the friends and yachties she has fed over the years who have given advice, encouragement, and provided the freshest of fish. Lastly, the amazing Ottolenghi family, who could not be more supportive.

Esme Howarth

YOTAM OTTOLENGHI is the author of the New York Times best-selling cookbooks Plenty, Ottolenghi, Jerusalem, Plenty More, NOPI, and Sweet. He lives in London, where he co-owns an eponymous group of restaurants, the fine-dining restaurant NOPI, and the vegetable-focused restaurant ROVI.

SIMPLE Meal Suggestions
from midweek to weekend suppers

The number of ways in which 140 recipes can be combined to make various meals is large. Here are just a few meal-planning ideas covering a range of occasions, from quick midweek to special event or weekend suppers. In some instances there are several ideas, depending on the season. Focusing on the food thats in season and available is the best place to start in terms of keeping things simple in the kitchen and eating well. If a menu is vegetarian or vegan it will have a (V) or (VG) icon alongside.

Midweek supper

Spring/Summer

Avocado and fava bean mash, (make 6 hours ahead and keep in the fridge) (VG)

Stuffed zucchini with pine nut salsa, (make the salsa in advance, if you likeit will be fine sitting for a few hours) (V)

Shrimp and corn fritters,

Seeded chicken schnitzel, (prep the cucumbers and make the dressing, but keep separate until ready to serve)

Autumn/Winter

Curried lentil, tomato, and coconut soup, (the sauce will keep for 1 week) (VG)

Pumpkin, saffron, and orange soup (make the sauce 3 days in advance) (V)

Chile fish with tahini, (blanch the broccoli and kale ahead of time)

Pork with ginger, green onion, and eggplant,

Weekend brunch for friends

Pea, zaatar, and feta fritters, (this is the salad served with scrambled harissa tofu) (V)

Scrambled harissa tofu,

Weekend lunch and supper for friends

Spring lamb and sides

Slow-cooked lamb shoulder with mint and cumin, (the elements can all be made in advance)

Summer salmon supper

Bridget Joness pan-fried salmon with pine nut salsa, (this keeps well in the freezer, so it can be made in advance)

Spring roast chicken and sides

Spring roast chicken with preserved lemon,

Autumn roast chicken and sides

Arnolds roast chicken with caraway and cranberry stuffing,

Festive supper

Chicken Marbella,

Family supper

Gnocchi alla Romana, (the dressing can be made 2 days in advance and kept in the fridge)

Asian fish

Whole roasted sea bass with soy sauce and ginger,

Feasts

Feasts, for me, are where you do most of the cooking in advance and then have a great spread of food to which people can help themselves. The recipes I go to when making a feast are those whose quantities can be easily doubled or tripled (or more) as needed. Theyre dishes that are happy to sit around for a while and be eaten at room temperature, when everyone is ready. Exceptions to thiswhen something needs to come out of the oven at the last minute or where assembly should be last minuteare noted where relevant. Ive erred on the side of really covering the table in food here, but dont feel you have to cook everything listed for it to be a feast.

Tapas feast
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Avocado and fava bean mash, (make the filling up to 1 day in advance)

Middle Eastern feast
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Grilled lamb fillet with almonds and orange blossom,

Spring lamb feast
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Slow-cooked lamb shoulder with mint and cumin, (make the garlic oil ahead and prep the zucchini up to 6 hours in advance, but wait to add the seasoning and lemon juice until ready to serve).

Summer vegetarian feast
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Burrata with grilled grapes and basil, (the elements can all be made 1 day in advance and then assembled) (V)

Winter feast
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Arnolds roast chicken with caraway and cranberry stuffing, (steam the carrots 6 hours in advance and let them come to room temperature before serving)

Ottolenghi Ingredients

These are the 10 ingredients Im urging you to seek out and stock up on. Even though Ive called them Ottolenghi ingredients theyre not mine, of course; theyve all been around a lot longer than me! They are, however, things I love to cook with, rely on a lot in the kitchen, and will keep championing until, I hope, they become a lot of peoples everyday ingredients.