Kristine Poor - Guide to Interfacings: Carry-Along Reference Guide

Copyright 2019 by Kristine Poor and Landauer Publishing, www.landauerpub.com, an imprint of Fox Chapel Publishing Company, Inc., 903 Square Street, Mount Joy, PA 17552.

Print ISBN 978-1-947163-26-3

eISBN 978-1-607657-54-5

What is interfacing? Interfacing is the layer of fabric between the outer garment or project and the lining or facing. It shapes, supports, and stabilizes. Most projects last longer and look more professional with suitable interfacing.

Choosing and using interfacings properly makes such a difference in the outcome of your project. Use this guide to help you get started in the world of interfacings.

The pattern supply list should serve as a guide to choosing interfacing. It is good to know why a certain interfacing has been recommended, especially when you want to get creative and start using fabrics other than what has been suggested.

There are three main types of interfacing:

1. WovenThis interfacing is produced just like fabric and is generally more durable than a nonwoven.

2. NonwovenThis type of interfacing is made from polyester fibers bonded together to form a fabric. It will exhibit little or no shrinkage and will not ravel.

3. KnitThis soft interfacing has stretch and can be used with both woven and knit fabrics.

Because there are no right or wrong answers when choosing interfacing, it is always best to test before you get started. This will ensure that you get the result that you want.

There are dark interfacings as well as light. In some cases when using a dark fabric, light interfacing may show through (and vice versa), so this is something to consider when choosing your interfacing.

There are lightweight to heavyweight interfacings on the market. The more support you need, the stiffer the interfacing. Try this at the store: Lay your fabric over the interfacingare you getting the result that you want? Try different weights until you are satisfied with your choice.

Choosing between a fusible and a sew-in interfacing depends on personal preference, the fabric, and the degree of firmness desired. Fusible interfacing has a layer of heat-activated adhesive that is either printed or sprayed on the interfacing and can be a great time saver. They can also make a fabric slightly crisper than a sew-in interfacing of comparable weight. If you are unsure whether your fabric can be fused, ask the fabric retailer where you purchased the fabric, or if that is not possible, do a test with your fabric and interfacing.

Always refer to the instructions that come with your interfacing. Use a press cloth when fusing to protect your fashion fabric. It can be a purchased press cloth or a piece of muslin or batiste. Important! Always protect your ironing surface (beneath the project) with parchment paper or a Teflon sheet.

For fusible interfacing to be applied to fabric properly, you need to control three things:

Time

Temperature

Pressure

Always PRESSdo not iron in a gliding motion! Fuse from the center then move out to the outer edges. The fusible glue needs time to activate. Press about 1020 seconds on each section, and then lift and position in the next section, overlapping as you go. Note: Hand-held steamers will not bond interfacing to fabric.

Try this: Use a damp press cloth as a timing tool. The cloth will be dry after 1020 seconds of fusing. If not, turn up the temperature on the iron and press a little longer.

Let the fabric cool for at least five minutes. Test the bond by attempting to peel the interfacing away from the fabric. The fusible interfacing should be secure. If it isnt, adjust the time or temperature and test again.

If the result is wrinkly or bubbled, lower the temperature and try again.

If you get no adhesion and notice a shiny surface on the fabric, the glue has transferred to the fabric. Lower the temperature and retest.

Sew a scrap of interfacing to a scrap of the fashion fabric as directed in the project instructions. Use a washable fabric glue stick to temporarily hold the interfacing in place.

When finished, ask yourself the following questions: Is the fabric supported as you would expect? Is the fabric too stiff? Play with different weights to achieve the look that you want.

Sometimes a single interfacing is not enoughyou might need a combination of more than one interfacing to achieve the look and function that you need. Make sure that you test beforehand so that you know what to expect when making your project.

Be sure to note the care instructions of the interfacings when you purchase them. Select interfacings that require the same care as the project fabric. (Use washable interfacings with washable fabrics; likewise, with dry-clean-only fabrics and interfacings.) If you are unsure of the care instructions for the fabric or the interfacing, wash a test sample to check the results.

To pre-shrink fusible interfacing (and avoid any unwanted results later), fill a sink with warm water (do not add detergent). Soak for about ten minutes. Gently squeeze out excess water by rolling in a clean, dry towel and lay flat to dry.

Fusible interfacing should not be stored for long periods of time; adhesives can be affected by light, moisture, and heat. Make sure to test a sample of older material before use.

There are so many interfacings available right now that I could not possibly list each one. I listed just a few examples in each category to get you started.

When you find an interfacing that you like to use, keep a sample of it in a notebook, along with the manufacturers instructions and the name of the project that you used it on. Youll be glad you did!

Woven interfacing, sew-in or fusible

Woven interfacing, like fabric, has a warp (lengthwise) and a weft (crosswise). Its generally more durable than nonwoven. The fusible version tends to produce less wrinkles and dimples than nonwoven fusible interfacings.

100% cotton, cotton and poly blend, or 100% polyester

Pellon SF101 Shape-Flex Woven Fusible Interfacing

HTC Form Flex Fusible Interfacing