Pecoraro - Woodworking, Beginners guide to Build 18 Household Projects 2 Books in 1
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- Book:Woodworking, Beginners guide to Build 18 Household Projects 2 Books in 1
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- Cut all of the joinery while the stock is still square, yet first take a few moments to make a template for your leg shape, and utalize it and a bevel gauge to mark the legs and aprons for the curves and tapers youll cut later.
- To join the narrow legs and aprons, I interlocked the mortiseand-tenon joints.
- I routed the mortises and cut the tenons at the tablesaw.
- Once cutting the tenons, test each setup on sample material until the machines and jigs are dialed in. utalize a marking gauge to lay out the shoulders and cheeks on each piece.
- Clamp a stop to a crosscut sled for cutting the shoulders.
- Cut all the wide exteriors first, and then adjust the blade to the appropriate height for cutting the shoulders on the apron edges.
- Prior to making this cut, put a piece of blue tape on the stop to offset the shoulder rather.
- This leaves a small strip of extra material on the shoulder that can simply be pared flush.
- I used a tenoning jig to cut the cheeks, then a bandsaw to eliminate the remaining waste at the ends and in the the tenons.
- Clean up and fit the joints with chisels and files.
- I round my tenons instead of chopping the mortises square.
- Once all the joinery is cut, saw the drawer front from the front apron.
- Then, dry-fit the end assemblies and measure the inside distance in the the front and rear aprons to determine the length of the interior rails.
- For greatest accuracy, take this measurement as close to the legs as possible.
- The drawer enclosure is formed by a pair of interior rails, each rather narrower than the aprons that run front to back and guide the drawer sides.
- Each rail is joined by dowels to the front and rear aprons and rabbeted along the bottom to accommodate a framed panel.
- This panel closes the compartment, adds rigidity, and supports the drawer from underneath.
- For smooth drawer movement, the interior rails must be parallel to one another, with dowel joints that are specifically aligned, front to back.
- To precisely lay out the joints on the face of the rear apron, I used the front aprons as a reference.
- A jig aids doweling, I drilled my dowel holes utalizing a shopmade jig created especially for this venture.
- To drill a front apron, set the jig in place so its reference face is flush with the aprons interior edge.
- Clamp the jig temporarily while you fasten it with a couple of brads.
- At the drill press, take a moment to set the bit depth, utalizing the layout for your shaping as a guide.
- Drill through your layout marks, simultaneously completing the jig and drilling your first set of dowel holes.
- After drilling the apron, cautiously align the jig on the end of the corresponding rail and drill the mating holes.
- Repeat the procedure on all the aprons and corresponding rail ends.
- Once all the holes are bored, test the fit.
- One way to streamline the test-fitting of dowel joints is to utalize dowels in just half the holes.
- It likewise helps to compress them by rolling them in the file and your bench.
- This keeps the dowel holes from loosening while multiple dry-fits.
- The drawer pockets bottom is a panel set in a frame held together with bridle joints.
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