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Pecoraro - Woodworking, Beginners guide to Build 18 Household Projects 2 Books in 1

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WOODWORKING
BEGINNERS GUIDE TO BUILD
18 HOUSEHOLD PROJECTS
2 BOOKS IN 1
ALESSANDRO PECORARO
Copyright
All rights reserved.
No part of this book may be reproduced in any form or by any electronic, print or mechanical means, including information storage and retrieval systems, without permission in writing from the publisher.
Copyright 2020 Alessandro Pecoraro
Disclaimer
Purchasing this book can be seen as consent to the fact that both the publisher and the author of this book are in no way experts on the topics discussed within. This book is produced with the goal of providing information that is as accurate and reliable as possible. Under no circumstances will any legal responsibility or blame be held against the publisher for any reparation, damages, or monetary loss due to the information herein, either directly or indirectly. This declaration is deemed fair and valid by both the American Bar Association and the Committee of Publishers Association and is legally binding throughout the United States. There are no scenarios in which the publisher or the original author of this work can be in any fashion deemed liable for any hardship or damages that may befall the reader or anyone else after undertaking information described herein. The information in the following pages is intended only for informational purposes. As befitting its nature, it is presented without assurance regarding its prolonged validity or interim quality. Trademarks that are mentioned are done without written consent and can in no way be considered an endorsement from the trademark holder.
Table of Contents Book 1
Table of Contents Book 2
Introduction
Like any craft, woodworking has specialized terms for its equipment and practices. It is full of everyday words that live different lives in the woodshop from frogs and fences to stretchers and aprons. A comprehensive glossary could fill a book, yet this short one will get you started. Because the furniture itself is the heart of furniture making, we will begin with a few furniture parts. Once you begin researching ventures youd like to tackle, or you find yourself describing what you want to build, this guide will help. Knowing the language of woodworking wont make you a woodworker, yet it can help you learn the craft, share your ideas, and express yourself. It likewise connects you to the history and tradition of the craft. In book 1, first you will learn how to build a Hall Table, a Trestle Table, a dining table and a pivot leaf table. Moving on, you will learn how to build a tabletop, how to customise tabletop edges, how to build a curved front desk, how to make strong cabinet backs and how to build bookshelves. Book 2 begins by teaching you how to build a book rack, a Wall Cabinet, a Vanity Cabinet and a traditional Hutch. Moving on, you will learn how to build cabinet doors, how to make frame and panel doors and how to make bracket feets. Lastly, you will learn how to build drawers and drawer pulls.
Book 1
How to Build Tables and Desks
Alessandro Pecoraro
Chapter 1 How to Build a Hall Table
I intended to make a table once I was a student and many of my classmates were designing furniture with legs that tapered from thick at the bottom to thin at the top to echo the flowers shape. I gave each leg a pronounced taper, topped with a gentle curve, on both outside faces. I cut away the tables top at each corner to put these graceful shapes on full display, and I fashioned the apron faces to harmonize with the profile of the legs. I constructed the table from shedua, with maple for the drawer sides and bottom. The piece is a treat to build. The design is not as complex as a carcase piece yet goes beyond a straightforward table with drawer, adding a few wrinkles that will help you grow as a woodworker. Theres a variety of joinery, from traditional mortiseand-tenon joints to dovetails to dowels, and real pleasure in shaping the legs and aprons. For this, I blend machine work and hand equipment.
Begin with the joinery
  • Cut all of the joinery while the stock is still square, yet first take a few moments to make a template for your leg shape, and utalize it and a bevel gauge to mark the legs and aprons for the curves and tapers youll cut later.
  • To join the narrow legs and aprons, I interlocked the mortiseand-tenon joints.
  • I routed the mortises and cut the tenons at the tablesaw.
  • Once cutting the tenons, test each setup on sample material until the machines and jigs are dialed in. utalize a marking gauge to lay out the shoulders and cheeks on each piece.
  • Clamp a stop to a crosscut sled for cutting the shoulders.
  • Cut all the wide exteriors first, and then adjust the blade to the appropriate height for cutting the shoulders on the apron edges.
  • Prior to making this cut, put a piece of blue tape on the stop to offset the shoulder rather.
  • This leaves a small strip of extra material on the shoulder that can simply be pared flush.
  • I used a tenoning jig to cut the cheeks, then a bandsaw to eliminate the remaining waste at the ends and in the the tenons.
  • Clean up and fit the joints with chisels and files.
  • I round my tenons instead of chopping the mortises square.
  • Once all the joinery is cut, saw the drawer front from the front apron.
  • Then, dry-fit the end assemblies and measure the inside distance in the the front and rear aprons to determine the length of the interior rails.
  • For greatest accuracy, take this measurement as close to the legs as possible.
How to create a drawer pocket
  • The drawer enclosure is formed by a pair of interior rails, each rather narrower than the aprons that run front to back and guide the drawer sides.
  • Each rail is joined by dowels to the front and rear aprons and rabbeted along the bottom to accommodate a framed panel.
  • This panel closes the compartment, adds rigidity, and supports the drawer from underneath.
  • For smooth drawer movement, the interior rails must be parallel to one another, with dowel joints that are specifically aligned, front to back.
  • To precisely lay out the joints on the face of the rear apron, I used the front aprons as a reference.
  • A jig aids doweling, I drilled my dowel holes utalizing a shopmade jig created especially for this venture.
  • To drill a front apron, set the jig in place so its reference face is flush with the aprons interior edge.
  • Clamp the jig temporarily while you fasten it with a couple of brads.
  • At the drill press, take a moment to set the bit depth, utalizing the layout for your shaping as a guide.
  • Drill through your layout marks, simultaneously completing the jig and drilling your first set of dowel holes.
  • After drilling the apron, cautiously align the jig on the end of the corresponding rail and drill the mating holes.
  • Repeat the procedure on all the aprons and corresponding rail ends.
  • Once all the holes are bored, test the fit.
  • One way to streamline the test-fitting of dowel joints is to utalize dowels in just half the holes.
  • It likewise helps to compress them by rolling them in the file and your bench.
  • This keeps the dowel holes from loosening while multiple dry-fits.
How to build and fit the frame and panel
  • The drawer pockets bottom is a panel set in a frame held together with bridle joints.
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