Sooriyan - 20 Electronics Beginner Led Projects: Electronic Basic Technology Simple Circuit and Projects

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LED Simple Project

1. LED Tester - Simple
2. Simple LED Circuit
3. Simple LED Torch
4. Simple LED Flashlight
5. Simple Cheap USB LED Light
6. Simple Flip Flop Circuit
7. Wireless AC Current Detector
8. How to Make a IR Proximity Sensor at Home
9. Sound Generator Project With RGB LED
10. Simple Flashlight LED Bulb
11. Converting a 230V AC Bulb to USB Power
12. Easy Door Alarm
13. Whittling a Variable Resistor
14. LED Chaser Circuit Without IC
15. How to Make a Vibration Sensor
16. Simple Touch on Touch Off Circuit
17. Simple LED Replacement for Bicycle Bulb
18. Simple LED Backlit Sign
19. Wireless LED Project
20. The Best Led Project Ever

Interaction

I am pleased to introduce and write the foreword to this project to easily identify and troubleshoot parts of the E-Tech Project as communication Led Simple Project Make Idea.

Today Electronic Technology Ignorance has become a necessity for everyone. The purpose of my initiative to do this project is to use more and more good devices in daily life.

Electrical and Electronic Beginner Amazing Idea Mini 20 Project Publish.

S.Nithukanth

LED Tester - Simple

I use LEDs in almost all of my projects. For those small circuits that require only a few guides, it is easy to replace the LED on the circuit itself and replace it if it is faulty, but what about those systems that cost a lot or even hundreds of LEDs? It is because of these types of projects that I have come up with this simple LED test.

It should take about 10 minutes to build up the most parts for any hobbyist who may be lying around. This thing has saved me countless heads from removing and replacing flawless LEDs with great order!

So you might be thinking, "Can I trust the parts I am ordering will just work?" In fact, we should be able to do just that, but the fact is that there will always be that one component in all the many malfunctions - LEDs are also different. Im not talking about long-term testing or failure here. This is just a simple test to see if the LED is on when it should. The number of faulty parts per batch order will increase with very large orders, vintage products, or unreliable manufacturers or distributors.

I buy cheap LEDs. Its no secret, and Im not ashamed of it. The 10 difference between a 10 and a 20 kusuka LED from two different distributors can really add up if you buy a few hundred at a time. Even 10% of cheap LEDs have flaws, there is still a 45% savings. The caveat is that each LED needs to be tested before it can be used to make sure it is really working. Other than that, you may spend a lot of time unpacking to replace a few idle LEDs - this is not an easy task in most lists of LEDs that have been sold together and locked in another enclosure. It is very time consuming and tedious to check them all first.

Step 2: Collecting Materials

LEDs - What kind of LEDs are you testing? You need to know the minimum amount of power needed to unlock it. I once worked with a bright white LED that turned on at about 5V DC, but most of the LEDs I work with turn on between 2V and 4V.

Battery - The best option here is a single 9V battery - alkaline or loaded, but anything (any cable) that produces at least 4V should work OK on most LEDs.

Battery Holder / Connector - Anything that will work to connect your battery to a circuit.

2 x Resistors - I use 1000 ohm using hole protection holes in this project. With a 3V LED forwarding voltage with a 9V battery, there should be a 6V left - 3V on all combat equipment. That means 3mA [3V / 1000ohms] should flow with LED - enough to see if it works. If you want more of a bright LED now or are using a low power battery, use smaller resistors.

Cardboard - This forms the body of the device. I used a 1 "x 8" string.

Scissors - Cut out cardboard.

Electric Tape - Holding cardboard together.

Hot Glue with a Gun - Protect resistors in place.

Soldering Iron and Solder - Resistant battery cable.

Heat Gun and Heat Gun - Not absolutely necessary, but it protects the solder joints.

Step 3: Build Build

Building this explorer is incredibly easy.

Cut out the cardboard on a long line and fold in half. The edges can also be folded for extra support on the base.

Wrap the cardboard with electrical tape to wrap it.

Solder is the only limit on a good battery cable.

Solder ends one resists the wrong battery cable.

(Optional) Reduce the heat tube above the solder joints.

Fold the unmarked lead with a single opponent in the 'U "and paste it down with an exposed lead section running over the cardboard.

Repeat step 6 with another opponent on the other side of the cardboard.

Connect the battery, then test the LED by inserting the top of the tester between the LED lead, paying attention to the size of the battery and the LEDs.

Simple LED Circuit

We will build a simple LED circuit. This guide is aimed at beginners entirely on electronic entertainment. There is no presumption in previous knowledge; Explicit instructions are explained so that the beginner knows what to do as the circuit is built.

Step 1: Building materials and information required

First include the following:

Bread board

Two jumper strings

One 1.8k ohm resistor

One LED

One battery and one battery clip

These items are readily available at any electronics store: perhaps an older Radioshack or something similar. Any basic electronic kit will have, without battery, everything.

The 1.8k ohm resistor is used for this purpose because it is the only opposition I had in my hand. Do not use (read: do not use at all) a resistor with an ohm rating of less than 330 ohms. This exceeds the normal 3V LED limit across the LED @ 20 milliamps which will overload the LED. Anything over 330 ohms is fine, but going too high could cause the LED to light up.

Breadboard is the foundation on which we build the circuit; will generate electricity and allow some of the above items to be connected to the circuit. The bread board looks like the top; it is not a loaf of bread. Instead there is a plastic board with metal in it, with spaces where we can put 'tracks.'

I have written above the driving lines above the picture of the bread board. The current notification is only executed on the lines, and then made in the middle of the board. This means that, when a complete circuit is built, the lead in some parts should be in the same line as the other items.

It is not necessary to fully understand this, but knowing it helps to assess problems that may arise during the construction of the circuit.

Step 2: Connect the battery clip

Bread boards usually have power bars on one side or both sides. These devices are where the battery is connected, so the battery lead is not inserted directly into the center of the circuit; power lines allow for efficient handling of cables.

The red cord of the battery clip should be installed in any area of the red power train, often referred to as '+', because good battery lead is often connected here. Insert the black lead of the clip into the blue line marked '-.' If you have not guessed why, it is because the line '-' is designed to detect the wrong lead of a battery clip.

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