Kim Grant - Explorers Guide Cape Cod, Marthas Vineyard, and Nantucket

GINGER WAREHAM/PICKLEJUICE.COM

EXPLORERS GUIDE

CAPE COD,
MARTHAS VINEYARD
& NANTUCKET

TWELFTH EDITION

KIM GRANT & KATY WARD

THE COUNTRYMAN PRESS

A Division of W. W. Norton & Company

Independent Publishers Since 1923

Copyright 2021, 2017, 2014, 2011, 2009, 2007, 2005, 2003, 2001, 1999, 1997, 1995 by Kim Grant

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Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data is available

The Countryman Press

www.countrymanpress.com

A Division of W. W. Norton & Company, Inc.

500 Fifth Avenue, New York, NY 10110

www.wwnorton.com

978-1-68268-600-3 (pbk.)

978-1-68268-601-0 (e-book)

To Catherine Direen and whatever shes having. Kim Grant

To my parents, for raising me in this beautiful place. Katy Ward

EXPLORE WITH US!

W elcome to the 12th edition of the most comprehensive guide to Cape Cod, Marthas Vineyard, and Nantucket. I have been highly selective but broadly inclusive, based on years of repeated visits, cumulative research, and ongoing conversations with locals. All entriesattractions, inns, and restaurantsare chosen on the basis of personal experience.

I hope that the organization of this guide makes it easy to read and use. The layout has been kept simple; the following pointers will help you get started.

WHATS WHERE In the beginning of the book youll find an alphabetical listing of special highlights and important information that you can reference quickly. Youll find advice on everything from where to find the best art galleries and lighthouses to where to take a whale-watching excursion.

LODGING Because prices, seasons, and specials are so variable, I have used abstract pricing to give you a general idea of the relative rates between lodging places. Please also see Lodging in Whats Where on Cape Cod, Marthas Vineyard, and Nantucket. Double room rate designations for high season are as follows:

RESTAURANTS In most sections, I make a distinction between Dining Out and Eating Out. Restaurants listed under Eating Out are generally inexpensive and more casual; reservations are often suggested for restaurants in Dining Out. A range of prices for main dishes is included with each entry. Main dish designations are as follows:

THINGS TO SEE & DO The internet is much better suited to offering up-to-the-minute pricing than print. To give you a general idea about how much things cost per person:

COVID-19 Due to the COVID-19 pandemic, travel in Cape Cod, Marthas Vineyard, and Nantucket (as everywhere else) requires more planning for every activity to ensure current availability and appropriate social distancing. This means that you should call or check a venues website to confirm, among other things, if reservations are required where walk-in activity was once the norm. It also means that providers of services from hotels to restaurants or ferries and fishing charters are likely to be running their businesses differently from in the past, with fewer visitors engaged at any one time. If you are a family group, be sure to mention that, because it may make a difference in the business owners risk calculations. Ask if there is outdoor seating available at restaurantsmany venues have changed their layouts to include more outside dining while they reduce the numbers of tables inside. Meals to go, food service delivery, and curbside pick-up options have expanded dramatically in the spring and summer of 2020; check to see if those options are still available. Annual events, including festivals, parades, and tours, have shifted their dates and ticketing procedures. Youll have a more rewarding travel experience if you arrive prepared and flexible.

GREEN SPACE In addition to trails and walks, green space also includes white and blue spaces, that is, beaches and ponds.

WHERE TO START Start with the aptly named Whats Where. Seriously. It gives a big-picture, contextual overview of everything on the Cape and the islands.

KEY TO SYMBOLS

The off-season icon appears next to appealing year-round lodging or attractions.

The special-value icon appears next to lodging entries, restaurants, and activities that combine exceptional quality with moderate prices.

The pet-friendly icon appears next to lodgings where pets are welcome.

The child and family interest icon appears next to lodging entries, restaurants, activities, and shops of special appeal to youngsters and families.

The rainy-day icon appears next to things to do and places of interest that are appropriate for foul-weather days.

The martini glass icon appears next to restaurants and entertainment venues with good bars.

The handicap symbol indicates lodging and dining establishments that are truly wheelchair-accessible.

If you are going to follow links, please bookmark your page before linking.

CONTENTS

MAPS

INTRODUCTION

T he Greek philosopher Heraclitus wrote, Change is the only constant in life. After writing this guide since 1995, its still true: just when I think Ive seen it all, a ray of sunlight hits the Provincetown dune shacks to make them new again. Walk a trail with a naturalist or your own keen eye, and you will notice different birds and plants from your last walk on the same trail.

That said, the mission of this 12th edition of Explorers Guide Cape Cod, Marthas Vineyard & Nantucket has not changed. Its highest objective has always been to save you time and money by helping you make the best decisions for your trip. Having trustworthy content all in one place is integral to that goal.