Kay K. Moss - Seeking the Historical Cook: Exploring Eighteenth-Century Southern Foodways

2013 University of South Carolina

Cloth and paperback editions published by the University of South Carolina Press, 2013

Ebook edition published in Columbia, South Carolina, by the University of South Carolina Press, 2021

www.uscpress.com

Manufactured in the United States of America

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The Library of Congress has cataloged the print editions as follows:

Moss, Kay.

Seeking the historical cook : exploring eighteenth-century southern foodways / Kay K. Moss.

pages cm

Includes bibliographical references and index.

ISBN 978-1-61117-259-1 (hardcover : alk. paper)ISBN 978-1-61117-260-7 (pbk. : alk. paper) 1. CookingSouthern StatesHistory18th century. 2. Cooking, AmericanSouthern StyleHistory18th century. 3. Food habitsSouthern StatesHistory18th century. I. Title.

TX715.2.S68M678 2013

641.597509033dc23

201204554

ISBN 978-1-64336-222-9 (ebook)

Front cover illustration:inset photo, dreamtimes.com/Brandon Burnett; background, Cameron Family Papers, Southern Historical Collection, Wilson Library, the University of North Carolina at Chapel Hill

M ARCH II: How dreary to be still at my penmanship while I hear my younger sister and brothers shouting with glee at Blind Mans Bluff in the orchard. The peach trees are just beginning to show pink.

I am thrilled with my birthday gift from Mother and Father, a beautiful blank book covered in yellow, blue, and gray marbled paper. I shall title it A Friend to the Memorie and fill it with directions for cookery.

M AY 24: However beautiful my copybook and clever my title, filling it with advice on cookery is decidedly tiresome. I am trying ever so hard to transcribe all the details of my grandmothers best receipts. Ill never match her elegant hand. I just hope to learn to set out as appetizing a table as she. Anyone who knows me might guess what I entered first in my new copybook. Yes, Grandmothers Quaking Pudding. In springtime she turns this pudding into a tansy with spinage and sorrel. In summer we pick raspberries for her to add. Delicious! I do admire all her delicate custards, especially when flavored with rose water. When grandmother adds fresh lemon peel or candied orange sweetmeats, I declare the pudding perfect.

J ULY I: Today, weary from chopping weeds in the garden, I gladly sat down and took up my pen. Mother reminded me I mustnt neglect to include everyday dishes in my collection. A vision of her special Onion Pie came to my mind, and she was flattered to dictate directions. Of course it is as much potato and apple and egg pie as it is onion. She revealed her secret ingredientgenerous mace. Mother told me she copied that receipt from a neighbors cookery book when she was my age, and has been making her own versions of it ever since. I have noticed she adds other vegetables in season or even leftover meats. It suits me best of all when I discover bits of ham amongst the potatoes and apples. I will make a note to remember ham for my special touch to Onion Pie. That makes it more of a Sea Pie and good enough to take along to a corn husking or barn raising.

S EPTEMBER 3: My sister Kathryn and her husband are visiting from York, here to help with the harvest. She seems pleased that I am making good progress with my Friend to the Memorie.