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Also by Mark McEwan

Great Food at Home

with Jacob Richler

MARK

McEWAN S

Great Italian Recipes Made Easy for Home

WITH JACOB RICHLER

VIKING CANADA

Published by the Penguin Group

Penguin Group (Canada), 90 Eglinton Avenue East, Suite 700, Toronto, Ontario, Canada
M4P 2Y3 (a division of Pearson Canada Inc.)

Penguin group (USA) Inc., 375 Hudson Street, New York, New York 10014, U.S.A.
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Penguin Books (South Africa) (Pty) Ltd, 24 Sturdee Avenue, Rosebank, Johannesburg 2196, South Africa

Penguin Books Ltd, Registered Offices: 80 Strand, London WC2R 0RL, England

First published 2011

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10

Copyright General Purpose Entertainment Inc., 2011

All rights reserved. Without limiting the rights under copyright reserved above, no part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in or introduced into a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form or by any means (electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording or otherwise), without the prior written permission of both the copyright owner and the above publisher of this book.

Manufactured in the U.S.A.

Cover and interior design: Mary Opper
Photography: James Tse

LIBRARY AND ARCHIVES CANADA CATALOGUING IN PUBLICATION

McEwan, Mark, 1957-

Mark McEwans Fabbrica : great Italian recipes made easy for home / Mark McEwan with Jacob Richler.

Includes index.
ISBN 978-0-670-06515-8

1. Cooking, Italian. I. Richler, Jacob II. Title. III. Title: Fabbrica.

TX723.M34 2011

641.5945

C2011-902361-X

Visit the Penguin Group (Canada) website at www.penguin.ca

Special and corporate bulk purchase rates available; please see www.penguin.ca/corporatesales or call
1-800-810-3104, ext. 2477 or 2474

Contents

Introduction

I opened my newest restaurant, Fabbrica, in the fall of 2010, with a view to serving the most authentic, rustic, regional Italian fare possible. All the recipes included in the pages that follow come from this restaurant. As you will hopefully see, the style of cooking and its ostensible simplicity lends itself particularly well to an accessible cookbook. Many of the recipes can be prepared quickly. But there is plenty here to challenge the home cook, too.

Let me explain. First, as a word of caution, let me say with the authority of someone who has cooked for more than thirty years in the professional kitchen that whether cooking there or at home, the dishes that look the simplest are usually the hardest to get exactly right. There are good reasons for thisespecially when it comes to Italian cookery, which generally relies on fewer ingredients to get its message across on the plate than what you find in many other cuisines. Simply put, less on the plate means that whats included had better be very close to perfect. Each element needs to be cooked exactly right. And each ingredienton display without any rich sauces or distracting clutter to hide behindmust also shine with its freshness and quality.

So when you are cooking these recipes, you may find that they generally challenge you less for the time you need to commit to complete them than for the technique you must possess or practise to make the dish sing. If you are making Grilled Swordfish with Braised Fennel and Orange, no one will be impressed if you left the fish on the grill two minutes too long and it turned out dry, or if you did not properly caramelize the fennel

before braising it and so ended up with an absent flavour and a pallid sauce. Nor should you attempt the dish with some pre-sliced, greying, twice-frozen plastic-wrapped piece of swordfish from the pre-packaged section of the supermarket. If instead you take the trouble to find a fresh, quality piece of fish, and get all the other little things right, you need just thirty minutes to turn out a knockout dish.

This book can reward you like that again and again. The best way to ensure that it happens is to never let the book dictate what you go shopping for. Instead, shop first, then find a recipe. Always shop with an open mind, and buy only what looks best, freshest, and most seasonally appealing at the market. Then consult the book when you get home. It includes a substantial range of products and ideas. And just as I undertook to do with my cookbook team with our first book, Great Food at Home, we have designed the recipes in these pages to be as flexible as possible. Each is welcoming of substitutions in its list of ingredients.

One area where you should never compromise, however, is in the staplesyour home larder. Most of the Italian-sourced ingredients we use at Fabbrica are easy to come by everywhere. Using cheaper substitutions is a false economy.

Sure, plum tomatoes from San Marzano, italy, where they are grown in rich volcanic soil, sun-ripened until tender and sweet, and then harvested exclusively by hand, are always going to cost more than something produced elsewhere in Italyor for that matter in Canada. As a restaurant owner with an eye on the numbers, I wish that werent the case. And as a restaurateur whose four restaurants are all in Toronto, Canada, and who seeks to use local products whenever he can, I would be delighted to use a Canadian tomato instead. But as a chef who cares most about how a dish ultimately tastes, I know that a tomato sauce made with San Marzano tomatoes tastes better (sweeter, richer, and less acidic) than one made with any other tomato, and I have no choice but to buy the best.

Likewise, recipes included here for pasta and pizza will turn out better if made with the same Italian 00 flour we use at the restaurantnot because their wheat or flour is superior to ours, but because as yet no Canadian miller grinds their flour quite as fine. In recipes that call for a particular type of winelike Pinot Grigio or Baroloto be used for braising or in a reduction, try to heed the general advice, for in each case the varietal possesses characteristics that lend something special to the finished dish. When it comes to balsamic vinegar, remember that there is no substitute for age and quality.

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