contents
The philosophy
The tools
The challenges
The perfect base
The natural canvas
Foundations
Eyes
Cheeks
Lips
Male make-up
Teens
Lighting and the professional choice
The look
Suppliers
Acknowledgements
Index
the philosophy
Look in the mirror there is only one person in the world who looks like you and that is you. Never has a woman looked more beautiful when she is healthy and happy in her own skin. Confidence and self-assurance are wonderful assets, and even if they are not ones you always recognise in yourself or others they can be developed with the aid of make-up. There are no hard and fast rules to make-up application, so experiment with colours and looks until you find a style that suits your or your clients needs.
A woman should never hide behind a cloak of make-up but rather allow it to enhance her natural beauty and reflect her inner warmth. I have picked up many a golden tip from being surrounded by professional, artistic and creative people throughout my career and this book will hopefully go some way to stimulate you to look at make-up in a more inspiring light.
I always thought make-up was a fashion and that following the pack would make me attractive and trendy. But was I wrong when I tried orange! The art within the art is feeling good about what you wear on your face. So though following the latest trends is not always advisable, make-up should reflect not only someones personality and mood, but also their lifestyle and wardrobe.
I have chosen to work with real people in this book to illustrate how real beauty can shine through. I have also considered more extravagant ideas but in my eyes they are simple, fantastic ways to manipulate products and tools to give me more make-up options. Alright, I hear you cry, there is only one way to apply mascara! but I will show you there are many ways of wearing it!
In the 1950s people were desperate to get their hands on make-up, as basics such as red lipstick and black eyeliner were pretty much all that was available. In the 60s and 70s experimentation took a back seat, as for the main part single colours were used to exaggerate the eyes with little colour used elsewhere, although make-up trends changed at the end of this era to incorporate nothing but colour. In the 80s and 90s it was just too much of everything, and now in the new millennium you can be as natural or as glamorous as you wish. Never before has there been so much choice and so many varieties of colour, texture, shade and sparkle! As we end this decade, make-up will continue to change and we will see products being invented which will surprise even the most experienced make-up artist. But I look forward to change and hope you do, too.
Never has a woman looked more beautiful
when she is healthy and happy in her own
the tools
the tools
Precision is what you need for flawless make-up and this can only be achieved with the right tools. Fingertips are a vital part of the tool kit and are your best blenders but getting into small corners with eyeshadow and eyeliner is the job of a suitable brush. The best brushes are soft to the touch and are shaped according to the area of the face being treated. They should be easy to clean and should not release bristles freely.
Both synthetic and natural brushes are readily available and often synthetics are easier to clean, however, the blending power of natural hair in a tightly bound brush is remarkable. The best brushes feel sturdy but are light enough to achieve a feather-like touch to your application. A good set of brushes can easily last years and can prove to be your best investment so choose wisely and always ask to try out the brushes before you buy.
TYPES OF BRUSHES
brow brush
blending sponge
foundation base brush
eyeshadow dome
contour facial brush;
mini shadow brush
eyeshadow stubby
angled eyeliner brush
angular brow/lash separator
lip dome
eyeshadow blenders
blusher brush
powder brush
When it comes to second best is never good enough but the best is never the most expensive!
Back to basics
Each brush has its own purpose so buy them individually in accordance with the make-up you use on a daily basis. There is no point in wasting money on something you will never use. There are a few essential basics other than brushes, however, which you should include in your kit.
Lash curlers The old style is often the best and this is definitely the case with lash curlers! Curled lashes look fantastic with or without make-up as they really open the eyes and give them depth.
Sharpener A good sharpener will have two holes: one for chubby pencils and the other for liners. Finding a good sharpener could save you pounds in shavings! Plastic sharpeners are often better as they are durable and light and are less prone to rust.
Tweezers Invest in a good pair of tweezers and carry them with you to pluck out any rogue hairs before venturing out in public! Tweezer tips come in many variations but often slanted or round tips are best as they are easier to handle and great at grabbing hairs. Pointed or flat-tipped versions can prove painful if not used properly as it is often easier to scratch or pinch the skin with these.