Mamane - Mastering Stocks and Broths: A Comprehensive Culinary Approach Using Traditional Techniques and No-Waste Methods

PRAISE FOR MASTERING STOCKS AND BROT HS

Mastering Stocks and Broths is the most thorough book on the subject Ive come across. Rachael Mamanes writing is as beautiful, thoughtful, and caring as her approach to food, the table, and her stocks. And I love the intriguing recipes that she has interspersed throughout the book. If one really used this book, one would emerge a truly excellent cook and, I dare say, person. Here is to deep passion and thoroughness. Kudos!

DEBORAH MADISON , author of Vegetable Literacy and In My Kitchen

If you have ever tried to imagine the most definitive encyclopedia on stocks, sauces, and broths, here it is. Mastering Stoc ks and Broths is wildly practical and comprehensive. Everyone who aspires to see health germinate from their kitchen needs to follow Mamanes lead. I cant imagine a single question unanswered in this marvelous book.

JOEL SALATIN , Polyface Farm; author of You Can Farm

Rachael Mamane takes stock making to a whole new level in Mastering S tocks and Broths , from making a basic stock to the many ways of thickening and flavoring this fundamental ingredient into delicious sauces, gravies, soups, and stews. This book deserves a place in the kitchen of all seriousand not so seriouscooks.

SALLY FALLON MORELL , president, The Weston A. Price Foundation

Equal parts inspiration and encyclopedia, this fabulous book will be reached for again and again. It truly does contain everything you need to know to let broths and stocks enrich your kitchen with nutrition, flavor, and depth. Mamanes recipes are truly irresistible, and the science and history she weaves throughout add multilayered meanings to the guidance she provides, inviting you on an adventure with each dish she offers.

JESSICA PRENTICE , author of Full Moon Feast; cofounder, Three Stone Hearth

Its always been my preference to surround myself with people who are willing to go deep. Im not really interested in making time for anyone else. By de ep , I mean people who work and study hard, people who arent afraid to ask questions, people whose enthusiasm for experimentation never wavers, people who, above all else, are willing to sacrifice for the sweet pleasure of slowly obtained mastery. I especially like to read books written by those people. Rachael Mamane is one of those people. In this remarkable tome, she manages to write about bones and broth and stock on four very different levels at once: the spiritual, the symbolic, the technical, and the practical. Maybe I should throw in the political, too. Read this book. Like Rachaels stocks and broths, it will heal you. It will also bring you into the deep.

CAMAS DAVIS , butcher; writer; owner, Portland Meat Collective

Copyright 2017 by Rachael S. Mamane.

All rights reserved.

No part of this book may be transmitted or reproduced in any form by any means without permission in writing from the publisher.

Project Manager: Patricia Stone

Developmental Editor: Makenna Goodman

Copy Editor: Mary Reilly

Proofreader: Laura Jorstad

Indexer: Shana Milkie

Designer: Melissa Jacobson

Printed in the United States of America.

First printing May 2017.

10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 117 18 19 20 21

Our Commitment to Green Publishing

Chelsea Green sees publishing as a tool for cultural change and ecological stewardship. We strive to align our book manufacturing practices with our editorial mission and to reduce the impact of our business enterprise in the environment. We print our books and catalogs on chlorine-free recycled paper, using vegetable-based inks whenever possible. This book may cost slightly more because it was printed on paper that contains recycled fiber, and we hope youll agree that its worth it. Chelsea Green is a member of the Green Press Initiative ( www.greenpressinitiative.org ), a nonprofit coalition of publishers, manufacturers, and authors working to protect the worlds endangered forests and conserve natural resources. Mastering Stocks and Broths was printed on paper supplied by Thomson-Shore that contains 100% postconsumer recycled fiber.

Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data

Names: Mamane, Rachael, 1975 author.

Title: Mastering stocks and broths : a comprehensive culinary approach using traditional techniques and no- waste methods / Rachael Mamane.

Description: White River Junction, Vermont : Chelsea Green Publishing, [2017] | Includes bibliographical references and index.

Identifiers: LCCN 2016059355| ISBN 9781603586566 (hardcover) | ISBN 9781603586573 (ebook)

Subjects: LCSH: Stocks (Cooking). | Cooking. | LCGFT: Cookbooks.

Classification: LCC TX819.S8 M36 2017 | DDC 641.81/3dc23

LC record available at https://lccn.loc.gov/2016059355

Chelsea Green Publishing

85 North Main Street, Suite 120

White River Junction, VT 05001

(802) 295-6300

www.chelseagreen.com

CONTENTS

For Ema, who taught me how to cook with affection,

and without words

FOREWORD

There is an extraordinary nature to something that is one of a kind, and the allure to uniqueness is undeniable. There are certain qualities that can set our senses in motion unlike anything elsewhether it is the sensual experience of eating an oyster or the swirling sensations of deep love. Pleasure from uniqueness engulfs us so much that the determination to rekindle that experience can become an obsession.

At the heart of our lifelong venture to encounter these unique experiences is the recognition of how truly exquisite it can be to experience a genuine, irreplicable moment of time and place. And there may be no better way to engage all the senses in such an experience then through food.

Harvesting food from soil is exactly that: the preservation of a moment. Vegetables that reflect a region, weather, the soil they thrived in; animals that roam freely, subsist on the flora around them, and contain traces of it all in their flesh. There is a beautiful realization when one stops trying to replicate a flavor and so experiences authentic terroir the taste of placethrough food.

In the food world, uniqueness is a conundrum. Chefs design menus around dishes that aim for the unique, in both flavor and artistic appeal. And yet the success of the restaurant is so often determined upon replication, night after night, dish after dish.

The quest for consistency underpins success in every facet of food and agriculture. Industrialized meat is produced in a manner so that each carcass conforms and is processed exactly like the one that came before it. (Robots are now often used, automating the butchery of our modern meat.) Variation, both in genetics and flavor, is the enemy to the bottom line of high-volume meat processing.

The ugly fruit and vegetable movementsaving and using food deemed aesthetically or structurally unacceptable in the conventional marketplacechallenges the need for surface perfection in produce and calls into question whether the foods aesthetic perfection even translates to superior flavor. Its no wonder that food waste is a hotbed issue in the culinary world right now. (Rachael Mamane is right: Save the scraps. Make stock.)

The struggle to shape nature for commercial expectationsseeking year-round consistency in availability and systems for producing meat and produceis manifesting in disastrous ways when it comes to our physical and mental wellbeing. Food sustains us, and if it cant flourish, neither will we. Industrial food systems are not nourishing, regardless of how much food is produced.

The dramatic shifts in the food system toward automation, volume, and speed have transpired almost without notice to most of the masses. In meat, tenderness has beat out flavor as the winning characteristic of a wonderful cut. Animals are being slaughtered at younger and younger ages as carcass growth increases by unnatural forces through subtherapeutic antibiotics. Sadly, animal confinement facilitates tenderness in meat; but feedlots and grain-based diets produce a diluted and considerably less dynamic flavor than can come from pasture-based operations. These are the conditions that expedite industrial meat production and provide melt in your mouth meats. Im pro- chewing , however. I dont want meat that just melts in my mouth; I want deeply nutritious meat that serves my body well. Research shows that toothsome qualities in meat combined with incredible flavor produce more pleasurable responses in consumers.