Constance L. Kirker - Coconut: A Global History

COCONUT

Edible

Series Editor: Andrew F. Smith

EDIBLE is a revolutionary series of books dedicated to food and drink that explores the rich history of cuisine. Each book reveals the global history and culture of one type of food or beverage.

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Apple Erika Janik, Avocado Jeff Miller, Banana Lorna Piatti-Farnell, Barbecue Jonathan Deutsch and Megan J. Elias, Beans Nathalie Rachel Morris, Beef Lorna Piatti-Farnell, Beer Gavin D. Smith, Berries Heather Arndt Anderson, Biscuits and Cookies Anastasia Edwards, Brandy Becky Sue Epstein, Bread William Rubel, Cabbage Meg Muckenhoupt, Cake Nicola Humble, Caviar Nichola Fletcher, Champagne Becky Sue Epstein, Cheese Andrew Dalby, Chillies Heather Arndt Anderson, Chocolate Sarah Moss and Alexander Badenoch, Cocktails Joseph M. Carlin, Coffee Jonathan Morris, Corn Michael Owen Jones, Curry Colleen Taylor Sen, Dates Nawal Nasrallah, Doughnut Heather Delancey Hunwick, Dumplings Barbara Gallani, Edible Flowers Constance L. Kirker and Mary Newman, Edible Insects Gina Louise Hunter, Eggs Diane Toops, Fats Michelle Phillipov, Figs David C. Sutton, Foie Gras Norman Kolpas, Game Paula Young Lee, Gin Lesley Jacobs Solmonson, Hamburger Andrew F. Smith, Herbs Gary Allen, Herring Kathy Hunt, Honey Lucy M. Long, Hot Dog Bruce Kraig, Hummus Harriet Nussbaum, Ice Cream Laura B. Weiss, Jam, Jelly and Marmalade Sarah B. Hood, Lamb Brian Yarvin, Lemon Toby Sonneman, Lobster Elisabeth Townsend, Melon Sylvia Lovegren, Milk Hannah Velten, Moonshine Kevin R. Kosar, Mushroom Cynthia D. Bertelsen, Mustard Demet Gzey, Nuts Ken Albala, Offal Nina Edwards, Olive Fabrizia Lanza, Onions and Garlic Martha Jay, Oranges Clarissa Hyman, Oyster Carolyn Tillie, Pancake Ken Albala, Pasta and Noodles Kantha Shelke, Pickles Jan Davison, Pie Janet Clarkson, Pineapple Kaori OConnor, Pizza Carol Helstosky, Pomegranate Damien Stone, Pork Katharine M. Rogers, Potato Andrew F. Smith, Pudding Jeri Quinzio, Rice Renee Marton, Rum Richard Foss, Saffron Ramin Ganeshram, Salad Judith Weinraub, Salmon Nicolaas Mink, Sandwich Bee Wilson, Sauces Maryann Tebben, Sausage Gary Allen, Seaweed Kaori OConnor, Shrimp Yvette Florio Lane, Soda and Fizzy Drinks Judith Levin, Soup Janet Clarkson, Spices Fred Czarra, Sugar Andrew F. Smith, Sweets and Candy Laura Mason, Tea Helen Saberi, Tequila Ian Williams, Tomato Clarissa Hyman, Truffle Zachary Nowak, Vanilla Rosa Abreu-Runkel, Vodka Patricia Herlihy, Water Ian Miller, Whiskey Kevin R. Kosar, Wine Marc Millon, Yoghurt June Hersh

Coconut

A Global History

Constance L. Kirker and Mary Newman

REAKTION BOOKS

To our husbands, Tom and John, ever patient and encouragingon our coconutty adventure

Published by Reaktion Books Ltd

Unit 32, Waterside

4448 Wharf Road

London N1 7UX, UK

www.reaktionbooks.co.uk

First published 2022

Copyright Constance L. Kirker and Mary Newman 2022

All rights reserved

No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted, in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording or otherwise, without the prior permission of the publishers

Page references in the Photo Acknowledgements and
Index match the printed edition of this book.

Printed and bound in India by Replika Press Pvt. Ltd

A catalogue record for this book is available from the British Library

eISBN 9781789145267

The word coconut conjures up visions of palm trees, cocktails and sunsets, instantly transporting us to a golden beach with blue skies and bluer water, a sweet cocktail in one hand and coconut-scented sunscreen slathered all over us. What could be more fun, engaging, interesting or seductive, even, than writing about the coconut?

The image of the coconut palm is often paired with other fascinating and strange images, from pagodas to pink flamingos, but always in a delightful way. Hawaiian, or aloha, shirts invariably feature coconut palms and are worn untucked, signalling a casual attitude of freedom in the wearer, declaring I am on holiday! Former U.S. president Barack Obama, responding to a question about his future plans after he left office, said he could be found on a beach somewhere, drinking out of a coconut.

For those living in the Western world, which has a temperate climate in which coconut palms, by and large, simply cannot grow, the image, taste and, of course, smell of coconut are intriguing and extraordinary. Where coconut palms are abundant, they are much more than a sustaining food source. Where they are plentiful, people often remark that each household consumes at least one coconut daily and, in fact, a common saying is, Without coconut there is no life. Yet, for that very reason, the coconut seems to be taken for granted. People are surprised and dismayed to discover that the popularity of their beloved coconut water as a trendy superfood around the world has made its price skyrocket at home.

President Obama drinking from a coconut in Luang Prabang, Laos, 2016.

Consumers everywhere can easily identify the smell, texture and taste of coconut. Bags of processed, grated coconut are readily accessible at extremely reasonable prices, as are cans of coconut milk, cream or water. Recipes prepared with processed coconut, such as coconut layer cake or coconut cream pie, and the familiar coconut chocolate bar favourites Bounty, Mounds and Almond Joy are much-beloved treats in places where coconut palms do not grow.

Hopefully, some sections of this book will provide a trip down memory lane for readers who may recall favourite coconut recipes from the 1950s and 60s, prepared with care and pride by mothers, grandmothers and aunts for special family occasions and church suppers. For example, the recipe for toasted coconut cream pie that has been enjoyed by the authors family and friends for years turned out to be a 1950s recipe from the Tavern Restaurant in New York City. So treasured was this dessert that in 1958, Herb Hubschman, the owner of Two Guys department stores, called an aide in his office in Newark, New Jersey, and told her to send a Tavern coconut cream pie to him in Chicago, where he was attending a trade show. The aide bought a first-class aeroplane ticket for the pie and had it flown to Hubschman.

Coconut palms in Kerala, India: the Land of Coconuts.

Many American readers may also have fond memories of ambrosia, not only named after the food or drink of the Greek gods but the go-to salad or dessert for many a potluck or shared dinner. Variations of this popular dish now feature pineapple, marshmallows, cherries or sour cream, augmenting the simple oranges and coconut of the first-known recipes recorded in cookbooks as early as the 1870s. Treats from cakes to puddings to hard sweets make up a large portion of the recipes that use coconut. This is not surprising, since sugar cane and coconut are both easily available and inexpensive in the tropical locations where they are grown, but there are many savoury applications as well.