Emma Congdon - Cross Stitch for the Heart

Cotton, although a natural fabric, does use a lot of water and pesticides to produce, and contributes to environmental pollution when not farmed in an organic way. I always try to waste as little of it as possible when working with it.

Organic cotton is considerably better for the environment but is not widely available for cross stitching at this present moment (though hopefully it will be in the future).

Linen, when farmed correctly, has a much lower carbon footprint than cotton so makes an excellent choice for those wanting to be a little bit more conscious about the impact of their materials.

• Aida is an open, evenweave, cotton fabric. It has a natural mesh that helps guide the stitcher, and enough stiffness that, for smaller projects at least, an embroidery hoop isnt always required.
• Fiddlers cloth is similar to Aida but is slightly irregular, producing a more rustic, aged look, which is good if you want something a little less perfect.
• Hardanger is made of 100% cotton at 22-count weave. Usually used for 'Hardanger embroidery', it also works for cross stitch and gives a fine finish. Its trickier to work with than Aida because of its denser weave but the results can be well worth it.
• Linen has a crisp feel and a finer weave than Aida, and is usually stitched over two threads of the fabric. It offers a more traditional look. Working with linen can also be a challenge, so you might want to consider 'linen Aida', which combines the qualities of both.
• Jobelan is a soft fabric with a slight sheen. It is also stitched over two threads, but is more resistant to wrinkles compared to linen. Its easy to wash, so is ideal for larger projects for the home, such as tablecloths and pillows.

Thread is the paint of the stitching world and offers endless creative possibilities. For counted cross stitch its super simple to use and the worst that can happen is that it can knot. I recommend working with two strands for whole stitches (so dividing the original thread into three sets of two strands) and then working with lengths of around 3050cm (1220in), adjusting them on your needle to get started. For backstitch use a single strand.

In this book I have used DMC stranded cotton (floss), but there are many alternatives available and the conversion chart at the end of this book will help you to get the closest colour matches.

Using thread from well known brands is best from an environmental standpoint, as their manufacture is likely to be far less polluting than unbranded and cheaper flosses. Both DMC and Anchor threads are produced in accordance with Oeko-Tex Standard 100, ensuring that flosses are free from banned azo dyes, as well as carcinogenic and allergenic dyestuffs.

Good embroidery scissors are sharp and fine-pointed for cleanly cutting thread to the correct length, and for snipping off loose ends. To keep them sharp, never use them to cut paper or fabric. Instead you will need a separate pair of fabric scissors for cutting your Aida or linen.

Like most things, you can get by with needles that are too big or too small, but using a good embroidery needle that is the right size for the fabric will make stitching much quicker and easier. Tapestry needles are best for cross stitch because they have a rounded point so will not snag the fabric. However, always be careful with where they are left (please never, ever, cross stitch in bed!). A magnetic needle minder is a good idea to give you somewhere to park your needle when its not in use there are many fun designs available.

Frames keep your fabric taut while working, can save you a huge amount of time and also ensure that your stitching is even. I like to keep it simple and use a bamboo hoop (which is also much better than a plastic one from an environmental standpoint) but there are many varieties available, including some really fancy ones that you dont even have to hold! Try out a few different models if youre unsure. A local craft store can be a good source of inspiration and advice here.

T he heart is powerful. It is responsible for our strongest emotions passion, fear, and most importantly, love. But it is also fragile and can be broken or damaged in a way that means opening your heart to others can sometimes be tough too. I interpret being brave in matters of the heart as embracing the risk that comes with giving and receiving love, and having faith that your heart will take you in the direction youre meant to go (even if it takes a strange route).