Rosie Sykes - The Sunday Night Book: 52 short recipes to make the weekend feel longer

ABOUT THE AUTHOR

Rosie Sykes is a chef, writer and consultant. She has worked with some of the leading names in British food including Joyce Molyneux, Shaun Hill and Margot Henderson. She currently works as the development chef for Pint Shop in Cambridge and Oxford (pintshop.co.uk). She lives near Cambridge with her faithful hound Florence.

Publishing Director: Sarah Lavelle
Creative Director: Helen Lewis
Copy Editor: Alison Cowan
Designer: Will Webb
Photographer: Patricia Niven
Illustrator: Alexis Snell
Food Stylist: Rosie Reynolds
Prop Stylist: Rachel Vere
Production: Vincent Smith and Tom Moore

First published in 2017 by
Quadrille Publishing Limited
Pentagon House
5254 Southwark Street
London SE1 1UN
www.quadrille.co.uk
www.quadrille.com

Quadrille is an imprint of Hardie Grant
www.hardiegrant.com

Text Rosie Sykes 2017
Photography Patricia Niven 2017
Illustrations Alexis Snell 2017
Design and layout Quadrille Publishing Limited 2017

The rights of the author have been asserted. All rights reserved. No part of the book may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic, electrostatic, magnetic tape, mechanical, photocopying, recording or otherwise, without the prior permission in writing of the publisher.

Cataloguing in Publication Data: a catalogue record for this book is available from the British Library.

eISBN: 978 178713 200 9

CONTENTS

INTRODUCTION

When Ed Griffiths came to me with the idea for this book, it immediately evoked particular memories: the simple quick dishes we had as a family at home that were a welcome antidote to that Sunday night feeling. We were often all involved in an easy knock-together meal to be eaten on the sofa in front of the television, around a table with a game of cards or homework on the go, or with last-minute visitors. Wherever, whenever, whatever those Sunday night dishes involved, the memories are very warm.

As the weekend winds down into non-existence, many of us begin to contemplate the impending horrors that Monday morning will bring. But this is a choice, a social construct dictated by empty streets, empty pubs and closed curtains. You could resign yourself to yet another humdrum Sunday evening supper, but you could just as easily embrace the moment as an opportunity to create something thats not only comforting, but also uplifting.

This was my starting point, a desire to take up the Sunday night cause and come up with recipes that make it something to look forward to a way to extend the joys of the weekend, if you will. From simple treats on toast, to eggs every which way, via some good housekeeping with leftovers or a light crisp salad, I hope I have made a collection of dishes that will delight. If all else fails just head straight for the cocktails in the pick-me-ups and pop-it-in-in-ones chapter.

For optimum comfort and speed, toast topped with something easy and delicious is hard to beat.

Toast is the ultimate consolation on a Sunday night: crisp, yet soft and yielding. For me, its always a winner, especially as it is so versatile. One of my best Toast Sundays and there have been many was a big pile of toast plonked in the middle of the table with several treats to go on top and a load of friends and housemates coming and going. Late that evening was also when we came up with the Toast Office cafe concept, which was pretty much based on that supper but with some clever tricks for keeping toast warm and crisp without it drying out. Watch this space, as they say

I havent specified what sort of bread to use in these recipes, as everyone will have their own favourites for toasting. And with so many of us wanting to eat less bread these days, Ive also tried to make the toppings adaptable, so theyll sit just as happily on top of a bowl of steamed veg, rice, grains or even a piece of meat or fish.

This is a sort of less cheesy, more substantial Welsh rarebit. Leeks go splendidly with most cheeses, but are a particularly good match for the more citrussy flavours of something like Caerphilly. For those steering clear of bread, this would be super on cooked cauliflower or potatoes.

For 1

1 leek

1 tbsp light olive oil

2 sprigs of thyme

1 tbsp grain mustard

50g ( cup) coarsely grated Caerphilly

1 thick slice bread of your choice

1 clove garlic, cut in half

sea salt and black pepper

ketchup or chutney, to serve

Trim the leek, keeping as much of the green top as possible, then wash well and cut into 2-cm (-in) slices. Put the olive oil into a large saucepan with a lid and place over a medium heat. Add the leeks, thyme and 2 tablespoons of water, stirring well to coat the leeks with the oily water. Season with a pinch of salt and a little pepper, then cover and cook for about 10 minutes, or until the leeks are very tender. Shake or stir the pan occasionally to stop them sticking, and add a little more water if the pan seems to be getting too dry before the leeks have softened.

Meanwhile, preheat the grill (broiler).

Once the leeks are soft and sweet, check they arent sitting in too much liquid they should glisten and just be coated. If theres too much liquid, remove the lid and let it simmer and reduce for a minute or so before stirring in the mustard and cheese. Lift out the thyme sprigs, then check the seasoning.

Toast the bread lightly on both sides and rub one side with the cut side of the garlic clove. Pile the cheesy leek mixture onto the toast and grill until the cheese is melting, bubbling and starting to brown.

Eat straight away with some ketchup or chutney, ideally homemade the goes really well.

Devilled kidneys are definitely on the shortlist of things I would happily eat on a regular basis, but I know not everyone shares my taste for kidneys. Chicken livers done in the same manner are great, too, and I imagine have a wider appeal just make sure you buy the very best chicken livers. They are quite rich and so a little devilling is a good foil.

For 3

300g (10 oz) chicken livers

2 heaped tbsp plain (all-purpose) flour

1 generous tsp English mustard powder

tsp cayenne pepper

2 tbsp sunflower or rapeseed oil

2 tsp sherry vinegar

2 tsp Worcestershire sauce

100ml (generous cup) chicken or vegetable stock

30g (2 tbsp) butter

bunch of watercress

splash of extra virgin olive oil

2 tsp capers

sea salt and black pepper

3 thick slices toast of your choice, to serve

Trim the livers of any sinew and discolouration. In a shallow dish, mix together the flour, mustard powder and cayenne. Season with salt and pepper and combine thoroughly. Dust the chicken livers with the flour, shaking off any excess and spreading them out on a plate.

Heat a large, heavy-based frying pan over a high heat, add the sunflower oil and, when hot, carefully add the chicken livers in a single layer. Once they are all in and sizzling nicely, turn the heat down a little to let them cook: you want a decent amount of heat to create a crisp devilish coat but not too much so that they char on the outside or become dry and rubbery inside. Turn the livers after a minute or so and cook on the other side for another minute, then lift them out onto a warm plate. Quickly splash the sherry vinegar and Worcestershire sauce into the frying pan and let them bubble away to almost nothing, then quickly pour in the chicken stock, stirring to deglaze the pan and capture all the flavours I go at it with a whisk! Once the stock has reduced and thickened a little, swirl in the butter. Return the livers to the pan for a moment or two just to warm them through.