Carol Ann Toschi-Shimer - Tranquilla Toschis Traditional Italian Cookbook

Tranquilla Toschi's Traditional Italian Cookbook

by

Carol Ann Toschi-Shimer

CONTENTS

Acknowledgements

Thanks to my brother Ron, and to all my cousins; Dick, Judy, Linda, Allen, Mary Ann, and Marta for their encouragement and recollections of the 'good-times' we all had growing up under the influence of Nonnie (Grandmother Tranquilla) and Nonno (Grandfather Gino). Nonnie's love and cooking guidance over the years gave me incentive to preserve these favorite recipes.

A special thanks to my husband Tom for without his help, patience, and support, this cookbook would still be on the computer going nowhere. And to my Mom, Claire, for her editing skills.

As with many great cooks, Nonnie used to change ingredients from time to time depending on her mood, temperament, or on holidays and special occasions. A pinch of salt - a dash of sugar- would vary if her guests were on a low cholesterol or low salt diet. When I received several recipes that were similar, yet different, I enclosed both. For example, both crab chioppino recipes are good but just slightly different in the ingredients they contain. Some cookie recipes have less butter, sugar, salt. Some of the recipes are named in Italian purely because the English translation loses the entire effect of the dish, as in the case of Biscotti versus Italian cookies. On some pages I have included a small paragraph of an event that is related to the recipe.

Look for an asterisk (*), which will mark these paragraphs.

Dedication

In memory of my Nonnie, Grandmother Tranquilla, who even at 93 years old, prepared pure tantalizing meals for our family and friends. Where better to find a great recipe than one that has met the challenge of time. Thanks to my Nonno, Grandfather Gino, for his after-dinner novelle. He would have us sobbing in tears -followed by joyous giggles- before he revealed the happy moral of the story. He filled us with food for our minds with encouraging words and his good deeds. We have much to be grateful for because both of my grandparents loved all of their children and grandchildren. This love welded the Toschi family together. This book was written for all the Toschi- Grandchildren Do You Remember Those Days? Those Parties? The Good Smells from the Kitchen?

Copyright 1995; 2019 by Carol Ann Toschi-Shimer

All rights reserved. No part may be translated,

transmitted, or reproduced by any means

mechanically or electronically, or used for digital

imaging, Xeroxed, photocopied, scanned, or

otherwise, without written permission.

Photograph of Tranquilla taken in Madera, California in 1916 on her honeymoon. She was challenged to shot a rabbit and because of her hunting skills as a young child with her Dad in Daly City, California she was able to bring down the rabbit on the first shot. It is rumored that the joke was the rabbit had hit its head on the bam but the remaining buckshot in the cooked meat proved her ability with a gun.

History of the Toschi Clan in the United States

In 1897, Tranquilla Toschi was born in the neighborhood of Cassoni in Staffoli, Italy. Her father was an ambitious man who occasionally traveled to America in search of a better way of life for his family. By 1906 he had acquired enough funds to buy a house in the Marina district in San Francisco, and provided passage for his family to join him.

Two Choices

At the young age of nine, Tranquilla had a decision to make; travel to a strange land called America, or grant the wishes of her wealthy aunt and remain in Italy with the opportunity to live in a large villa and enjoy the amenities of a luxurious life. Tranquilla chose to accompany her mother Albina and her three-year-old brother, Eugene, on their trip to San Francisco.

A Rude Awakening

The San Francisco Earthquake and Fire of 1906 struck six days after her arrival. Terror gripped the city. Fire destroyed many buildings, hotels, banks, and homes, although the Marina home was intact. Marshall Law forbid cooking indoors. Stoves were brought out to the streets. Tranquilla's father was a chef at a local restaurant, and with the owner's permission, her father was able to use all the supplies necessary to prepare meals for the needy and homeless. The food lasted until National Guard came in with provisions of food, and makeshift cabins called 'refuge shacks' for shelter.

Love Walks In

In 1913, Tranquilla met a dashing young man. Gino came from the same neighborhood in Italy. His surname was also, Toschi. They fell in love; married in February 1916; and had one son, Alfred in May 1917. Gino worked for Columbia Steel Company in San Francisco and he was a good worker, but he had a keen desire to live in the country where he could be his own boss. In 1922, they bought a ranch in Aromas, California.

Tranquilla's Challenge

She was a young lady from the city where milk, eggs, bread, vegetables, meat, and fish came from the street vendor every Wednesday morning by horse and wagon. How does one milk a cow? How does an egg incubator work to make baby chicks? What does one do with the fruit that cannot be sold at the local market? What do you do with the abundance of rabbits? How do you bake edible bread? Thank Goodness for a very strict German neighbor, Ma Schraeder. On her very first visit, she saw Tranquilla in tears; then she saw the pies, crusts so thick, hard and dry, fruit fillings so very flat and soggy. Ma Schraeder's heart melted. From that moment on she took Tranquilla under her wing and taught her how to survive on the ranch. There was only one-way to do things: the 'right way' and that was Ma Schraeder's way!

After a few disastrous incidents, things began to settle down. Gino made chores as easy as possible for Tranquilla. He designed a washing machine that would swish the clothes back and forth with a mechanism he attached on the windmill. Love and patience brought about a quiet routine. Two daughters were born, Alma in 1922, and Claire in 1925. Tranquilla's cooking surprised everyone! Her poultry, game, and meat dishes were mouthwatering. She always used fresh herbs from the garden. Pies, cakes, cookies, and homemade ice creams and desserts were delicious. City friends came every Sunday. Of course, they came just in time for the evening meal.

The San Francisco Scene

It had all started in November of 1917. Tranquilla's father was missing. He left the Marina home at 4 a.m. as usual, for work down near the waterfront. He never arrived at work. He never came home. The assumption was that he had been robbed, killed, or Shanghaied. Police and reporters could not find a trace or clue of what happened. Tranquilla took care of her younger sister and brother on the ranch for a few years while the investigation continued. Seven years of searching took their toll, Mother Albina was so distraught that she became ill and needed almost constant care. Gino and Tranquilla had to give up the ranch in 1925, to return to the city, to be nearby. They bought a house on Hudson A venue. Gino was fortunate to get his old job back. But the hope of ever getting back to the ranch life had to be forgotten.

The Stock Market Crash in 1929 ushered in the Great Depression of the 30's. Employment dropped, Columbia Steel was idle but Nonno managed to find extra jobs to support his family. Those were very hard years! However, at the Toschi home there was always good substantial food on the table. Simple! Nourishing! Tasty! In 1935, Columbia Steel was awarded a contract to supply all the cables for the Golden Gate Bridge. After his retirement, he and Nonnie moved to San Bruno on the peninsula. The small house had a large workshop, and an open area that he immediately turned into a vegetable garden. He had time to repair and maintain some of his rental properties, but every spare afternoon he would drive to the North Beach bocce ball courts to enjoy his favorite pastime sport - bocce ball. He loved that game!