Illyanna Maisonet - Diasporican: A Puerto Rican Cookbook

Acknowledgments

Its often said that writing and being a writer is a solitary affair. It used to be. We all know that in this day and age, cookbook writing takes the backseat to all other jobs as you have to be your own damn marketing person, agent, administrator, researcher, social media curator, housekeeper, cookthe list goes on. When youre a Brown or Black person, a community is not only helpful, its necessary. When 101 ways to Instant-Pot black beans on Keto while also doing Paleo has been done for the umpteenth time, you need someone whos going to understand why your book isnt getting published without you having to explain why your book isnt getting published: whiteness. Because when youre a Brown or Black person, you can know everyone in the damn industry, have a mentorship with Jos Andrs, publish numerous articles in print and on the Web, have a column with the San Francisco Chronicle , be the first Puerto Rican food columnist in the country, win an IACP award for best narrative writing, have the support of Rancho Gordo founder Steve Sando, and get introduced to one of the only Puerto Rican editors turned agents in the business, and stillno one will publish your book. By the way, the person that I just described is me, in case you didnt know. When youve done everything that other authors have told you to do that worked for them, and it doesnt work, the only difference that you can see isthe whiteness you lack. To think that the color of your skin is the one thing standing in your way is really fucked up to carry through life.

Because of this, these thank-yous are so much more than thank-yous. These thank-yous are lifelines. These thank-yous are the very sole reason that I have gotten to this point. To these thank-yous, I owe so much.

To my cuado, Dan Liberti, thank you for taking photos of my stuff for the last decade. Although we might not always see eye to eye, I still admire your craft and appreciate you. You have taught me so much about the business side of being a freelance artist. Im not sure that I ever thought about creating a cookbook before you said, We should do a cookbook, in 2014. It was a gift. And a curse. And youre also related to one of my favorite peopleMila. You made this childless only child an aunty/tia/titi. And thanks to the other key players on our photography team, food and prop stylist Jillian Knox and assistant food stylist Malina Syvoravong, for all their behind-the-scenes work to make the recipes look great for the camera.

To Lorena Jones, thank you for never saying die. Thank you for offering me a solid deal even when I didnt and dont have an agent. When everyone else said my book was too memoir-y, which was apparently unusual for cookbooks, you saw it as storytelling. You never told me to ditch the memories, the stories, or the grandma. Thank you for your patience, understanding, and vision.

To the ones who tried: Thank you, Jos Andrs, for using every contact you had to help me make my dream come true. Thank you for actually being about it and giving me a once-in-a-lifetime job opportunity in New York City to cook for Steven Spielberg and Rita Moreno. Thank you for follow-up phone calls and emails. Thank you for just supporting me in a time when I felt like no one was listening. I will always be indebted to you, con cario. Thank you, Julia Turshen, for trying not once or twice but multiple times to reset the button and put me on the right path. I always felt bad that you tried so hard and nothing came of it. And Steve Sando, thank you for scraping me off the floor and giving me a purpose during my time in exile.

To my best friend since elementary school, my Day One, my baby blue blad, Yolanda Jackson. Thank you for keeping me grounded.

To the advisors: Shawn Walker-Smith and Tina Ramos, thank you for keeping me honest. You have been more than just good friends. Youve been recipe testers, traveling companions, truth-tellers, transportation, moral support, dining companions, and translators. Youve pointed out so many of my flaws but allowed me to grow from my unknowing mistakes and never ghosted me. Thanks to Alicia Kennedy for literally being the reason that I even have a fucking newsletter and a source of income. Im in awe of your ability to write at the confluence of food and politics.

To the mentors: Thank you, Papa Paolo Lucchesi, for seeing something in me that I didnt even see in myself. You are one of the most patient and nurturing editors of which anyone could ever dream. You made me the first Puerto Rican food columnist in the country. Thank you, Carole Ching and Mary Garza, for believing in me since I was sixteen years old. You took the place of a maternal figure when I had little to no contact with my own mother. Thanks to Teresa Urkofsky and James Chavez, my memorable culinary school instructors, who Im lucky enough to now call friends.

To the Puerto Ricans: Thank you, Eric Rivera, Jessica Von Dop DeJesus, Cesar Ramos, Jeremie Serrano, Reina Gascon-Lopez, Cristina Baez, Rafael Ruiz, Erika P. Rodriguez, Roberto Perez, Caribe Casual Shop, Santurce Vintage, Joseph Cuevas, Paxx Caraballo Moll, Pedro Alvarez, Alcor Foods, and Peter Chenaux.

To the one I failed: Thanks, Dylan S., for introducing me to music. Im so sorry for everything.

To cousin Ivan Diaz, thanks for being everythingdoorman, Mamis aide, mule, chauffeur, equalizer, male handshaker, translator, chauvinistic business associate, proxy, swimming companion, and comedic relief. Im sorry we dont always see eye to eye.

To those who were resources for me: Christina Edmondson, David Santana, Damien Cabrera, Rodney Blackwell, Celeste Noche, Tunde Wey, Eric Kim, Alex Lau, the Khamsalys, Alex Tenette, Gustavo Arellano, Alisson Xavier, and Norma Quon and Lyman Chan.

To the Medicis: Terri Carter, Danette Negron, Frida Pilar, Diana Dich, Josmine Evans, Patrick Thomas, Vanessa Nunez, Nathalie Christian, Mellisa Nelson, Julian Wade, Danielle Giddens, Alisha Miranda, Jennifer Jerutis, Erica Stinemates, Chantal Hazlett, Nicole Tourtelot, Lisa Prodanovich, Billie-Jean Martin, Kat Campbell, Sara Floor, Quyen Chavez, Enrique Grijalva, Daphne K. Jenkins, Megan Walsh, Vivian Ho, Laura Gamble, Carolyn Reed, Kat Campbell, and Marissa and Charlie Thieriot.

To the Ten Speed team: Thanks to Betsy Stromberg, for being our creative director and designer and for pointing out when I was beingimpatient. Many thanks, too, to production editors Doug Ogan and Sohayla Farman, production manager Serena Sigona, publicist Felix Cruz, and marketer Brianne Sperber.

Thanks to H&H Fresh Fish for giving a shit about producing, sourcing, and offering some of the most amazing seafood. To Hog Island Oyster Co., thanks for allowing us to traipse around the property so I could brag about your oysters to the world. And to Rancho Llano Seco: Im speechless in awe.

And to everyone who contributed to getting me to the James Beard House in 2018. To everyone who contributed to getting me to Puerto Rico for the piln and doughnuts research. And to everyone who contributed to the Puerto RicansinHawaii research.

Gabriela Hasbun

Illyanna Maisonet was the United States first Puerto Rican food columnist for a major newspaper, the San Francisco Chronicle , and has hosted sold-out pop-up dinners across the San Francisco Bay Area. An IACP award winner for narrative food writing, she collaborated with Jos Andrs on Steven Spielbergs West Side Story wrap party, contributed recipes to Rancho Gordo, authored a crowdfunded cookbooklet, and has written for the Los Angeles Times, Saveur, Food & Wine, Lucky Peach , Food52, Eater SF, and more.