Denise M. Taylor - The Art of Rome: Beyond the Pantheon; Walks of Art Series, No. 2

Walks of Art series No. 2

The ART of ROME:
Beyond the Pantheon

A self-guided tour of art

Denise M Taylor

Published by Denise M Taylor

First published 2013

Denise M Taylor

The moral right of the author has been asserted.

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Walks of Art No.2

The ART of ROME: Beyond the Pantheon

Overview

The ancient temple of the Pantheon is the heart of Rome. This self-guided walking tour explores the area just beyond the Pantheon and focusses on art and architecture ranging from antiquity through to the seventeenth century. You will be able to view art in the form of sculpture, painting and architecture by simply looking at a faade, or by engaging with public spaces, or by walking into a churchin situ, intrinsically linked to that place, and therefore adding meaning. A few paces behind the Pantheon is a stone elephant with a distinctive personality, and one of the many works of art by sixteenth-century Baroque artist, Gianlorenzo Bernini, seen throughout this walk. The delightful mix of art works inside S. Maria sopra Minerva belies its austere faade. Close by this Dominican stronghold are two Jesuit churches: both orders were powerful forces in the Roman Catholic Counter-Reformation that began with the Council of Trent (1545-1563) and ended in the mid-seventeenth century. Jesuit artists produced art that aimed to inspire devotion in the faithful and non-believers as a means of fighting against Lutheran heresy. As such, much of Romes religious Baroque art was propaganda, aimed at reviving Catholicisms dominance. The seventeenth-century illusionistic ceiling paintings that you will encounter in the Jesuit churches, Il Gesu and S. Ignazio, are prime examples.

In art historical terms baroque has come to signify the dominant artistic style of the seventeenth century which originated in Rome in the early 1600s and endured until the end of the century. Much of Baroque painting and sculpture is characterised by drama, natural realism and emotional expressiveness.

The increase in tourism en-masse is gradually destroying the individual travellers ability to engage directly (and quietly) with the history and magnificence of works of art in ancient cities such as Rome. In this walk you can avoid the hefty entrance fees to galleries and museums, and the jostling of crowds. So be prepared to inhale the atmosphere and linger along the route as long as you like.

The Route:

Piazza della Rotunda (Pantheon) Piazza della Minerva Il Gesu S. Ignazio Piazza Capranica Piazza della Rotunda S. Maria sopra Minerva

Opening Hours:

Pantheon: Monday to Saturday 8:30am-7:30pm; Sunday 9am-6pm

S. Maria sopra Minerva: Monday to Saturday 7am-7pm; Sunday 8am-7pm

Il Gesu: Daily 7am-12.15pm; 4pm -7.15pm

S. Ignazio: Daily 7.30am-12.15pm; 3pm-7.15pm

It is best to start this walk in the morning: Il Gesu and S. Ignazio are closed for much of the afternoon. As S. Maria sopra Minerva and the Pantheon are open all day it is recommended that you relax and eat lunch in or around Piazza della Rotunda when you have completed the circuit. After lunch you can explore the mix of art works inside the Pantheon and S. Maria sopra Minerva at a more leisurely pace.

Works of art referred to in this tour may be removed or closed off at short notice for a variety of reasons: cleaning, repair or conservation; on loan; alternating with works in storage. The author apologises for any disappointment or inconvenience due to an art work not being on display at the time this tour is undertaken.

Time Allocation:

1. leisurely stroll, maximum interest, time for lunch 6 to 8 hours

2. reasonable pace, eye on your watch, time to snack 4 to 6 hours

3. brisk cardio workout, limited time, snack as you walk 2 to 3 hours during the morning.

And so the walk begins

Piazza della Rotonda

Until 1847 the Piazza della Rotonda was a market filled with fishmongers, which is hard to believe considering the sacred nature of the Pantheon dominating the square. During his reign (1655-1667), Pope Alexander VII Chigi ordered the grading and enlarging of the piazza (and many others as you will find out later), the clearing and restoring of the Pantheon portico, and the banning of vendors. In 1575 Giacomo della Porta (c 15331602), architect and sculptor, was commissioned to design a fountain for the centre of the piazza. Leonardo Somani carried out the work, erecting a multi-layered shell on three travertine steps. In 1711 the fountain was altered and an obelisk, built for the Egyptian pharaoh, Ramses II, and brought to Rome in ancient times, was added. At the base of the fountain are four dolphins carved by Luigi Amici. Today the piazza is a bustling drawcard for tourists and souvenir vendors. You can sit in one of the cafs or just on the steps of the fountain and do some serious Pantheon gazing.

The Pantheon

Originally commissioned by Marcus Agrippa (c. 64BC - 12BC), the current concrete-and-stone masterpiece of engineering was built during the reign of Emperor Hadrian (76AD to 138AD). The Pantheonpan (to every god), theon (temple)needs time, and an entire history book, to do it justice; however, it may be enough to stand for a while and meditate on this marvel of ancient Roman temple that incorporates Greek architecture in its imposing portico with its forest of Corinthian columns of Egyptian granite. The concrete domed roof was a remarkable engineering feat for the time and the circular rows of square panels that form the internal construction of the dome are mesmerising (this coffering helps reduce the weight). A sense of harmony can be attributed to the fact that the diameter of the dome is equal to the height of the building. The light diffusing downwards through the opening at the top (this central oculus is 8.92 metres in diameter) provides a soft glow throughout the interior.

Many famous artists are buried here including Renaissance artist, Raphael; the epitaph on his tomb was written by his friend, the scholar and poet, Pietro Bembo (1470-1547): The man here is Raphael; while he was alive, the Great Mother of All Things [Nature] feared to be outdone; and when he died, she too, feared to die.

If you undertake this walk in the morning, and anticipate viewing all the works of art and tombs in the Pantheon, then it would be best to allocate time at the end of the walk as you will finish back here and the Pantheon is open all day.

The 1593 hand-drawn map by Antonio Tempesta (below) provides an interesting comparison with how this area looks today.