Rohn Strong - Learn to Crochet Top-Down Beanies

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Templates

To download templates for easy printing, view the download instructions at the end of this book or click the Templates chapter in the Table of Contents.

General Information

Learn to Crochet Easy Hats was one of my very first online classes with Annies, and since then, its been a customer favorite. The concept is simple: Crochet a half double crochet circle, increasing until you reach a given diameter. Then, just keep on crocheting. You have a hat pattern that uses practically no math, can be worked with any hook and yarn combo, and fits the first time, every time! I love the idea of creating endless styles of hats using this basic top-down crochet technique.

This book is an extension of that class. Each pattern includes the same basic instructions for crocheting the crown (the top of the hat). From there, directions are included to create stylish, modern and wearable hat designs for everyone in the family.

The patterns in this book are simply suggestions. Feel free to try your own stitch patterns, add a pop of color here and there, and create customized crochet caps. Each pattern is designed to work with a variety of sizes. Simply stop working when the hat is your desired length! Its that easy.

The best part is that these hat patterns work with any yarn weight, any hook size and any gauge. The following patterns dont give a recommended gauge, yarn and hook size, so dont feel tied down! Try your favorite yarn and hook. They are designed to work with you and your personal gauge.

Every beanie in this book begins the crown the same.

Rnd 1: Ch 3, work 8 hdc in 3rd ch from hook, join to first hdc with sl st.

From there youll work increases at designated points in order to complete the crown. With these beanies, never increase more than 8 stitches per round. This is because we must increase a specific number of stitches per round in order to form the crown. Too few stitches and the crown will curl in on itself, creating an unsightly bulge at the top of your head. Too many stitches and the crown will become wavy. Rest assured, increasing 8 stitches per round, your crown will almost always have a slow, gradual curve.

Each beanie is worked in joined rounds. Because of this, patterns line up better, color changes are much cleaner and overall the stitches play a little nicer.

One of the benefits of constructing top-down hats is how easy it is to change sizes. Working hats from the brim to the crown often means the pattern will be a bit more difficult to size. Its not as easy to make a hat larger or smaller when it is made this way. Its also not as easy to adjust the length of the hat.

Crocheting from the top means youll be able to control the circumference of the hat early on and adjust if necessary. It also means you can make the hat as short or as long as you want! You become the designer!

The following diagram is a jumping-off point. Measurements are given for just about every size youll need from baby all the way to adult large.

Its easy to use too! When working from a pattern, follow the directions for the crown until it is the desired size. You can check the sizing by simply laying your crochet circle on the diagram and matching it up. This will let you know if your crochet piece needs to be a little larger or smaller.

Please note that the measurements given on the diagram are not the actual head measurements but to fit measurements. This means they are crocheted a touch smaller to account for a nice snug fit.

Now, if your circle doesnt fit the diagram exactly, dont worry! A little bit isnt going to matter either way and, as with most hats, a little smaller is much preferable to a little larger. So, keep that in mind.

Length can be trickier to adjust than circumference. All hat patterns in this book will include a recommended length. Because individual gauge can often change the height of a stitch, you may not end up with the exact length indicated. Thats okay. Make adjustments where it seems appropriate and work from there.

Earlier I mentioned gauge and how easy it is to make these hats with just about any yarn. One note on this is that yarn is often made to work with a specific crochet hook. I always recommend following the information on the ball band for the best results.

Baby (toddler, child/teen, adult small, adult medium, adult large)

Circumference: 11 (14, 18, 20, 22, 25) inches

Height: 4 (5, 6, 7, 8, 9) inches

Materials

Red Heart Heat Wave medium (worsted) weight acrylic yarn (3 oz/198 yds/100g per ball):

1 ball each #0110 sandy shores and #0410 passport

Size H/8/5mm crochet hook

Tapestry needle

Stitch marker

Gauge is not important for this project.

Weave in loose ends as work progresses.

Join with slip stitch as indicated unless otherwise stated.

Place stitch marker and move each round unless otherwise stated.

Chain-2 at beginning of round does not count as first half double crochet unless otherwise stated.

Foundation rnd: With sandy shores, ch 3, 8 hdc in 3rd ch from hook, join(see Pattern Notes) in first hdc. (8 hdc)

Rnd 1: Ch 2(see Pattern Notes), 2 hdc in each st around, join in first hdc. (16 hdc)

Rnd 2: Ch 2, 2 hdc in first st, hdc in next st, *2 hdc in next st, hdc in next st, rep from * around, join in first hdc. (24 hdc)

Rnd 3: Ch 2, 2 hdc in first st, hdc in each of next 2 sts, *2 hdc in next st, hdc in each of next 2 sts, rep from * around, join in first hdc. (32 hdc)

Rnd 4: Ch 2, 2 hdc in first st, hdc in each of next 3 sts, *2 hdc in next st, hdc in each of next 3 sts, rep from * around, join in first hdc. (40 hdc)

Continue to hdc in each st around, inc 8 hdc each rnd until crown is desired circumference when placed on diagram.

Rnd 1: Ch 1, working in back lp(see Stitch Guide) of sts, sc in each st around, join in first sc.

Rnd 2: Ch 1, *sc in back lp of next st, dc in front lp(see Stitch Guide) of dc 1 row below, rep from * around, do not join, place stitch marker(see Pattern Notes)