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Contents
By Rohn Strong
Ive been crocheting socks for years, and my motto has stayed the same no matter how much Ive learned and developed: Crocheting socks is personal and you should take control of it. You should have a choice to make your socks just the way you want them for the right fit and feel.
Since my first crochet sock pattern, I have been invested in making sure sock crocheters have options, something that has been lacking for some time. No matter the pattern, you should have the skills to adjust and customize the socks to fit your feet and your personality.
In this collection of socks, I chose 12 patterns that represent a diversity of design: easy to experienced, self-striping to solid, cables to lace, toe-up and cuff-down. To accompany the patterns, I have also included instructions for working different toe and heel constructions for you to mix and match for a sock that truly fits you perfectly. There are tips and tricks along the way that make your sock crocheting experience a bit easier.
Getting Started
When you decide to crochet socks you need just a few tools. These tools are quite inexpensive.
1. Crochet Hook
A size F/5/3.75mm crochet hook is used for each pattern in this book. I was able to achieve a gauge of approximately 6 stitches per inch, which is perfect for socks. However, gauge is a crocheter-specific number, and you may need to go up or down a hook size or two in order to achieve the same gauge. My advice is to use the recommended hook and make adjustments as needed.
2. Split Ring Stitch Markers
Crochet stitch markers are often called split ring stitch markers. They are used to mark the beginning of rounds, the location of increases or decreases, and the right and/or wrong side of the work.
3. Yarn
Yarn is quite possibly the most important choice youll need to make while crocheting socks. Most of the socks in this book use Premier Yarns Deborah Norville Serenity Sock. It is a wonderful mix of bamboo, nylon and superwash merino that is inexpensive and comes in a variety of colors. The remaining socks are designed with Premier Yarns Deborah Norville Serenity Garden, a thicker sock yarn comprised of 100 percent micro acrylic (a soft non-animal yarn choice).
If choosing another yarn, try to aim for something with nylon or acrylic in it. These man-made fibers will give the sock the stretch it needs and can be machine-washed for ease.
Heels & Toes
This book covers a variety of heels and toes for you to use in customizing your socks. Those that are marked toe-up or cuff-down are done so that they can be interchanged easily.
Heels
For cuff-down socks, the following heels work well:
Single Crochet Heel FlapThis heel flap is worked in all single crochet with a heel turn.
Double/Single Crochet Heel FlapThis heel flap is comprised of alternating single and double crochet rows with a heel turn.
Wedge HeelThis heel is worked as a short-row heel, but with an added wedge for improved fit.
For toe-up socks, try this heel:
Short-Row HeelThis short-row wedge heel is comprised of two small sections of fabric worked over half the stitches.
These heels can be used with either cuff-down or toe-up socks:
Afterthought HeelThis heel is worked exactly as the standard dual toe, with two decreases on opposite sides of toe.
Afterthought Barn HeelModified from a popular sock knitting heel, this heel is worked similarly to a standard afterthought heel, except stitches are decreased on staggered rows.
Toes
When making cuff-down socks, use one of these toes:
Star ToeFour decreases are worked every row to create this toe.
Round ToeSix decreases are worked every other row for this toe.
For toe-up socks, this toe works well:
Short-Row ToeThis toe is worked exactly as the Short-Row Heel.
The following toes work for either cuff-down or toe-up socks:
Barn ToeThis toe is worked as for the Afterthought Barn Heel.
Standard DualFor this toe, increases or decreases are worked on alternate rows on both sides of foot.
Wide ToeStandard dual decreases are worked every row for this toe.
Now get ready to crochet your perfect pair of socks!
Skill Level
Finished Sizes
Instructions given fit womans shoe size 67 (small); changes for 78 (medium) and 89 (large) are in [ ].
Finished Measurements
Foot circumference: 7 (small) [8 (medium), 9 (large)] inches
Foot length: 9 (small) [10 (medium), 11 (large)] inches
Materials
Premier Yarns Deborah Norville Serenity Garden fine (sport) weight micro acrylic yarn (2 oz/185 yds/65g per skein):
2 [2, 3] skeins #0005 mountain heather
Size F/5/3.75mm crochet hook or size needed to obtain gauge
Tapestry needle
Stitch markers
Gauge
20 ext sc = 4 inches; 20 ext sc rows = 4 inches
Pattern Notes
Refer to Stitch Diagrams as needed.
Leg, Gusset, Foot and Toe are worked in continuous rounds; do not turn or join unless otherwise stated.
Join with slip stitch as indicated unless otherwise stated.
Place marker in first stitch of round.
Special Stitch
Extended single crochet (ext sc): Insert hook in indicated st, yo, pull up lp, yo, pull through first lp on hook, yo, pull through 2 lps on hook.
Sock
Make 2.
Cuff
Row 1 (RS): Ch 9, sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each rem ch across, turn. (8 sc)
Rows 235 [240, 245]: Ch 1, working in back lps(see Stitch Guide), sc in each st across, turn.
Next rnd: With RS tog and working in opposite side of foundation ch and in back lps of last row at same time, sl st in each st across, join(see Pattern Notes) in first st.
Leg
Rnd 1: With RS facing and working in row ends, ch 1, 35 [40, 45] sc evenly around, do not join, place marker(see Pattern Notes) in first st. (35 [40, 45] sts)
Rnd 2: Ext sc(see Special Stitch) in each st around.
Rep rnd 2 until Leg measures 7 inches from Cuff.
Heel Flap
Row 1 (RS): Now working in rows, sc in each of next 18 [20, 22] sc, leaving rem sc unworked, turn.
Row 2: Ch 1, sc in each sc across, turn.
Rep row 2 until Heel Flap measures 2 inches, ending with WS row.
Heel Turning
Row 1 (RS): Ch 1, sc in first sc, [sc dec(see Stitch Guide) in next 2 sts] twice, sc in each of next 8 [10, 12] sc, [sc dec in next 2 sts] twice, sc in last sc, turn.