John Higginson - Cycling the River Loire: The Way of St. Martin

The approach to Gien

The River Loire is known as the Queen of Rivers in France, and for most Europeans this beautiful waterway carries the same title. This is probably as a result of the magnificent chteaux built along its banks between Nevers and Angers, but there is far more to the Loire than a series of ostentatious pleasure domes.

For nature lovers, the region between the Loire's source high in the Massif Central and the end of the Loire gorge near Roanne is unforgettable. It teems with both flora and fauna. It is possible to spend days here kayaking between vertical cliffs. For boating enthusiasts, the central section, accompanied by canals and waterways, is an area of outstanding interest including an abundance of industrial archaeology; and for lovers of fine wine, the Loire produces vineyard after vineyard of the world's greatest vintages. For cyclists, however, the River Loire offers one of the finest long-distance rides in Europe.

This is no suffocating cycle-way denying cyclists access to villages and towns because they might meet vehicular traffic. Instead, the Loire has a natural accompaniment of country lanes and minor roads which hug its banks and provide easy access to every place which takes the cyclist's fancy. In fact, it is the tiny gems discovered along the way which make this journey so fascinating. They will lead those interested from prehistoric and Gallo-Roman remains close to the river's source through every phase of the history of France down to views of the future in the shipyards at its mouth.

Any journey along the Loire will become intertwined with the story of Saint Martin (see ). The majority of churches along the route are dedicated to him, and the river passes by both his home and his final resting place. It even provided the means of transport between the two.

This is, indeed, a river and a cycle route for everyone.

The Loire first sees the light of day as it bubbles out of the foot of a large volcanic plug high in the Massif Central. Le Gerbier de Jonc has five springs, each making its claim to be the source of the Loire, but within a hundred metres they all join together to form a recognisable stream which flows lazily into the Atlantic over 1300km away. The river valley between these points forms the route described in this book. From its source to Orlans it travels in a northerly direction, but then the Loire turns a right-angle bend, swinging to the west until it reaches the sea.

One source of the River Loire at Le Gerbier de Jonc, Stage 5

From its source to the city of Le Puy en Velay, the Loire is very much a mountain river, occasionally dammed, plunging between volcanic rocks or spreading into long lakes behind massive barrages. The winding country roads which accompany it climb and fall erratically, sometimes crossing it on narrow bridges, sometimes leaving it to negotiate a mountain col before returning to its banks. On this section of its length there is never a dull moment, although it is possible to cycle all day on these roads and never see a single car!

The broadening Loire below Ste. Eulalie, Stage 6

Between Le Puy and Roanne, the river continues to flow in a series of gorges, but these are less wild, with good roads running alongside. There are now numerous towns and villages, many with castles and colourful histories. The way is still hilly but less rugged.

North of Roanne, the whole nature of the river changes. Its valley widens and the landscape is dominated by agriculture. Towns and cities are well scattered, but farming villages abound. There are far more cattle than people, and the river flows lazily alongside man-made waterways. The riding along this stretch of the route is easy if a little less inspiring.

West of Orlans the ways become much busier. The tourist industry, based on the mighty chteaux of the Loire, comes to the fore with many roads full of holiday traffic. However, it is always possible to find narrow, unused lanes, often on the very banks of the river, to avoid the crush. The Loire Cycle Way, which appears occasionally in this section, can be of some limited help but is not, as yet, reliable enough to be followed slavishly.

Boats on the Canal de Roanne Digoin near Briennon, Stage 10