Waldy Malouf - The Hudson River Valley Cookbook: A Leading American Chef Savors the Regions Bounty

THE HARVARD COMMON PRESS
535 Albany Street
Boston, Massachusetts 02118

Copyright 1995, 1998 by Waldy Malouf

All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying, recording, or any information storage or retrieval system, without permission in writing from the publisher.

Cover photograph reprinted by permission from House Beautiful, copyright November 1997. Hearst Communications, Inc. All rights reserved. Melanie Acevedo, photographer.

Printed in the United States of America
Printed on acid-free paper

Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data
Malouf, Waldy.
The Hudson River Valley cookbook : a leading American chef savors the region's bounty / Waldy Malouf with Molly Finn.
p. cm.
Includes index.
ISBN 1-55832-143-8 (pbk. : alk. paper)
I. Cookery, American. 2. CookeryHudson River Valley (N.Y. and N.J.) I. Finn, Molly. II. Title.
TX715.M213 1998
641.5973dc21 98-29724
CIP

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Cover design by Suzanne Noli
Text design by Karen Battles
Set in II-point Centaur by Pagesetters Inc.

10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2

This book is dedicated to Meg, Max, and Merrill,
my wife and children whom, although they may not
believe it, I love more than cooking

I would like to extend special thanks to:

Elizabeth Carduff for asking me to do this book and to Peggy Tagliarino and Karen Schloss for pushing me to do it.

Angela Miller for introducing me to Molly Finn, without whom there would not be a book.

The owners of the Hudson River Club, especially Peter Higgins, for their support and to Christopher Carey for his encouragement.

My sous chefs Jim Porteus, Michael Smith, Mark Lemoult, Charles Steppe, and John Heuschkel for putting up with so many of my afternoon absences while maintaining the restaurant's high standards.

Pastry chef Martin Howard for generously giving me several recipes.

Calito (Carlos Beach) for his unique food delivery system and his smile.

Carol Gelber for helpful recipe testing.

Elizabeth McMillon for restoring Molly's kitchen after marathon testing sessions.

Dana Madigan and Nick Mautone for sharing their wine expertise.

Alice Thomas and Dalila Mercado for valiantly attempting to keep me on schedule, for covering for me when they couldn't, and for providing their computer skills when mine proved inadequate.

Julia Jordan for keeping me focused.

Elaine and Ed Morrison for providing temporary housing close to the cornfields.

The farmers, growers, winemakers, and cheese makers of the Hudson River Valley whose perseverance and fine products have helped inspire me.

The administrators of New York City's Greenmarkets, the staff of the New York State Department of Agriculture, the Hudson River Foundation, and other organizations that support the Hudson River Valley.

The many Malouf and Finn family members and friends who happily (usually) consumed all our successes and failures.

Waldy Malouf

FOIE GRAS, SOUPS, &OTHER FIRST COURSES

Foie Gras Terrine with Ice Wine Jelly

Foie Gras Terrine with Preserved Shallots

Foie Gras Terrine with Summer Vegetable Relish

Salt-Cured Foie Gras

Sauted Foie Gras with Cider and Apples

Sauted Foie Gras with Caramelized Pearl Onions and Fresh Currants

Roasted Foie Gras with Grapes

Steamed Foie Gras with Rhubarb Compote

Onion-Walnut Muffins

Roasted Oysters with Leeks on the Half Shell

Onion Charlotte with Wild Mushrooms

Hudson Valley Country Pt

Venison Terrine

Chopped Fresh Green Beans with Cured Duck

White Bean Strudel with Cured Duck

Chicken Stock

Rich Meat Stock

Roast Duck Stock

Fish Stock

Vegetable Stock

Potato and Sorrel Soup with Red Pepper Cream

Three Celery Soup

Corn and Codfish Chowder with Tomato Oil

Chilled Apple and Potato Soup

Pumpkin Apple Soup with Cinnamon Croutons

Butternut Squash Consomm with Ginger and Scallion Custard

Wild Mushroom Broth

Roasted Onion and Garlic Soup with Goat Cheese Croutons

Oyster Stew with Leeks

Basic Green Salad

Herb Salad with Lemon Vinaigrette

Endive, Apple, and Roasted Walnut Salad with Little Rainbow Berkshire Blue Cheese

SHAD, TROUT, & OTHER FISH

Whole Shad Baked in Millbrook Chardonnay

Whole Shad Baked in Milk with Potatoes and Bacon

Baked Shad Fillets with Sorrel Sauce

Cedar-Planked Shad with Chervil Vinaigrette

Boneless Shad Layered with Its Roe

Poached Shad Roe with Caviar Sauce

White Wine and Butter Sauce

Sauted Shad Roe with Bacon and Capers

Pan-Fried Trout with Lovage and Parsley Sauce

Roasted Trout with Summer Vegetables

Poached Trout Filled with Seafood Mousse

Sauted Sturgeon with Morels and Spring Sage

Lobster Gratin with Suppawn

Blackfish Wrapped in Bacon with Onion, Orange, and Fennel Relish

Halibut Boiled in Milk and Bread Sauce

Roasted Hot or Cold Whole Striped Bass with Fennel

Striped Bass Poached in Mushroom Broth with Carrot Vinaigrette

VENISON, PHEASANT, & OTHER GAME

Mallard Duck Breasts with Wild Rice Custard

Partridge with Tomato Oil, Basil, and Yogurt

Wild-Shot Pheasant with Braised Cabbage and Foie Gras Mashed Potatoes

Boneless Quail Filled with Foie Gras and Black Trumpet Mushrooms

Rabbit Pot Pies

Rabbit Saddles with Mustard and Sage Sauce

Venison-Apple Chili with Red Wine and New York State Cheddar

Grilled Venison Rib Chops with Watercress Relish and Red Wine Jelly

Roast Saddle of Venison with Wild Huckleberries

Venison Stew with Chestnuts and Cranberries

Home-Cured Venison Prosciutto

CHICKEN, DUCK, & OTHER POULTRY

Braised Chicken with Tarragon and Tomato

Chicken Paillards with Herb Vinaigrette

Roast Chicken with Maple and Walnut Glaze

Home-Style Roast Chicken with Garlic and Fingerling Potatoes

Chicken and Fresh Morels in Clinton Vineyards Sparkling Seyval Blanc

Grilled Breast of Chicken with Foraged Dandelion Greens

Braised Duck with Brandied Prunes, Orange, and Lemon

Cured Duck

Grilled Cured Duck

Grilled Moulard Duck Breast with Pickled Watermelon Rind

Roast Turkey with Clinton Vineyards Riesling Gravy

Cranberry and Chestnut Stuffing

Corn Bread and Fishers Island Oyster Stuffing

Wild Mushroom Stuffing

Sausage, Apple, and Pine Nut Stuffing

Roast Goose with Spiced Pears and Wild Rice and Sour Cherry Salad

BEEF, PORK, & OTHER MEATS

Braised Beef with Black Pepper, Shallots, and Garlic

Roasted Prime Rib of Beef with Caramelized Onions

Boiled Beef Shank Salad with Potatoes and Horseradish

Sliced Buffalo Steak with Grilled Onions and Garlic

Braised Veal Shanks with Citrus and Sage

Roast Fresh Ham with Red Cabbage and Apples

Spiced Loin of Pork with Baked Acorn Squash

Rack of Lamb with White Beans and Sweet Roasted Garlic Puree

POTATOES, MUSHROOMS, CORN, & OTHER VEGETABLES

Little Potatoes

Mashed Potatoes with Variations

Windowpane Potato Chips

Potato and Bacon Ravioli

Scalloped Yukon Gold Potatoes