Tim Hull - Moon Best of Grand Canyon: Make the Most of One to Three Days in the Park
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Tim Hull
Speaking from the South Rim of the Grand Canyon in 1903, President Theodore Roosevelt declared, Leave it as it is. You cannot improve on it; not a bit. Even today, the canyon simply must be seen to be believed. If you stand for the first time on one of the South Rims easily accessible lookouts and dont need to catch your breath, you might need to check your pulse. The canyon is a water-wrought cathedral, a deep rock labyrinth whose layers of primordial earth tell the history of the planet. Take your time simply staring into its brash vastnessyoull need it.
The more adventurous can make reservations, obtain a permit, and enter the desert depths of the canyon, taking a hike, or even a mule ride, to the Colorado River or spending a weekend trekking rim to rim with an overnight at the famous Phantom Ranch, deep in the canyons inner gorge. The really brave can hire a guide and take a once-in-a-lifetime trip down the great river, riding the roiling rapids and camping on its serene beaches.
There are plenty of places to stay and eat, many of them charming and historic, on the canyons South Rim. If you decide to go to the high, forested, and often snowy North Rim, youll drive through a corner of the desolate Arizona Strip and onto the Kaibab Plateau, which have a beauty and a history all their own.
Walk the Rim Trail (or ride the free shuttle bus) to (0.8 mi/1.3 km), the best place in the park to learn about canyon geology.
(1.5 mi/2.4 km), stopping to look at the romantic architecture, peruse the gift shops, and watch California condors soaring over the canyon. Eat lunch at one of the restaurants in the village.
; spend 2-3 hours stopping at all the viewpoints from Maricopa Point to Hermits Rest, then stop by your room or campsite for a rest and refresh before evening arrives.
(where the Yavapai Geology Museum is located).
(1 mi/1.6 km from Yavapai Point) for dinner (reservation required). Afterward, attend a free ranger talk (held at 8:30pm daily) on the Grand Canyons natural and human history at McKee Amphitheater.
The parks free shuttles run year-round.
Hermit Road is open to private vehicles November-March, a less crowded time of year when you can drive to the viewpoints instead of taking the shuttle. (May-Oct. only free shuttles and bikes are allowed on Hermit Road, while both shuttles and private cars drive Hermit Road Nov.-Mar.)
Rent bikes at Bright Angel Bicycles near the visitor center, or bring your own.
Summer, spring, and early fall (the busiest seasons at Grand Canyon National Park) make dinner reservations at El Tovar (tel. 928/638-2631, ext. 6432; www.grandcanyonlodges.com) far in advance.
Depending on the season of your visit, sunset might happen before or after dinner. In summer, sunset lasts until around 8 or 8:30pm; in fall and winter, sunset ends around 6:30-7pm. Fortunately, El Tovar is open until 9pm for dining and until 10pm in the lounge year-round.
Free ranger talks are popular and may require advance tickets, available starting at 7:30pm at the Shrine of the Ages venue near Park Headquarters. If the weather isnt nice, Shrine of Ages also serves as an alternate venue for the talk.
pine along the South Rim
The high season on the parks South and North Rims comes in summer. Expect crowds at the most popular viewpoints and sights along the South Rim; lines at the main South Entrance and the shuttle bus stops; full lodges, campgrounds, and eateries; and busloads of tourists from around the globe. But with pleasant daytime temperatures, the crowds can hardly spoil a day spent walking along the Rim Trail and exploring Grand Canyon Village.
Inside the Grand Canyon, temperatures regularly exceed 110F (43C) during the hottest part of the day, when all creatures within the gorge seek their hidden recesses of shade. The area is pleasant and safe only in the early morning and evening.
Late-afternoon thunderstorms, often with spectacular displays of lightning, are a common occurrence throughout the region from July-September.
South and North Rims: Averaging 70s (21 to 26C) and 80s (27 to 32C) during the day, and 50s (10 to 15C) and 60s (16 to 21C) at night.
Inner Canyon: Highs of 110F (43C) during the day, and lows in the 60s-70s F (16 to 26C) at night.
Spring and fall are still busy but with cooler temps in the inner canyon. Mid-season offers something of the best of both worldspleasant (though often windy) days and cool nights on the rims and near-ideal conditions for backpacking and exploring inside the canyon. Backcountry permits and river-trip reservations are, as a result, more difficult to obtain during the mid-season months. Inside the canyon, spring starts in early March and fall stretches into November.
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