Tim Hull - Moon Southwest Road Trip: Las Vegas, Zion & Bryce, Monument Valley, Santa Fe & Taos, and the Grand Canyon

TIM HULL

The great American road trip finds its wild side in this mysterious landscape. Youll rise from arid red rock fairylands, through river-cut canyons to the high and mighty evergreen forests, and then descend againsometimes in one scenic stretch of road. Youll pass through small towns and villages happily ensconced in a plateau time warp, when colorful billboards marked oases in the desert and freedom could still be found on the back of a Harley.

Bring your hiking boots, your trusty camera, and a water bottle, but leave your preconceptions at home. Follow these twisting two-lane highways with an open mind and an open heart, and you will discover the unexpected and the impossible: the neon-lit hedonism of Las Vegas and the otherworldly hoodoo forests of Bryce Canyon; the unspeakable beauty of the Grand Canyon and the dreamy adobe charm of Santa Fe. Wander among the glowing red cliff dwellings and the eroded sandstone monuments to uncover something about beauty, history, timeand perhaps even yourself.

Come to the Southwest and get lost ... or found.

Rising out of the desert like a high-tech oasis, Las Vegas is an adult playground of casinos, bars, buffets, over-the-top shows, and plush hotels. Dig a little deeper to find fine food, a flourishing arts scene, and local hangouts in the shadows of The Strip.

Zion National Park presents stunning contrasts, with barren, towering rock walls deeply incised by steep canyons containing a verdant oasis. Zion is so awe-inspiring that the early Mormons named it for their vision of heaven. Bryce Canyon National Park is famed for its red and pink hoodoos, delicate fingers of stone rising from a steep mountainside.

In Capitol Reef National Park, the Fremont River carves a magnificent canyon through Waterpocket Fold, offering hikers a leafy, well-watered sanctuary from the parks otherwise arid landscapes.

In vast Canyonlands National Park, the Colorado River begins to tunnel its mightyand soon to be grandcanyon through an otherworldly landscape of red sandstone. The beauty is more mystical at Arches National Park, where hundreds of delicate arches provide windows into the solid rock. High-spirited Moab is a recreational mecca, known for its mountain biking and comfortable, sophisticated dining and lodging.

A sculptor couldnt have carved the red sandstone buttes, arches, and spires at Monument Valley Navajo Tribal Park. The cliff dwellings at Mesa Verde National Park, built in naturally worn alcoves high up in the canyon walls, are ancient stone masterworks. On the way between these two spots, stop at Four Corners National Monument and twist your body into four states at once.

Santa Fe, New Mexicos picturesque capital has a human scale and a golden glow (partly from the loads of money spent here). Museums are a major drawfor state history, folk art, and moreas are the scores of galleries. Taos melds artists, spiritual seekers, and ski bumsplus centuries-old Spanish and American Indian families. Make time to enjoy the creative atmosphere, cultivated in coffee shops and restaurants.

Peaceful nostalgia, the ruins of a bygone heyday, and a quirky road culture pervade the sections of Historic Route 66 between Albuquerque, New Mexico, and Kingman, Arizona. Its possible to spend the whole drive watching the ever-changing scenery of high-desert plains, lava fields, ancient villages, and petrified forests.

Las Vegas

turquoise jewelry for sale in Santa Fe

Hackberry General Store along Historic Route 66.

The Grand Canyon

A mile-deep slice into the Kaibab Plateau, the Grand Canyon defies easy description. Stare in awe at the colorful layers from the canyons edgeor descend deep into the canyon to meet its creator: the mighty Colorado River.

When to Go

The national parks and the other sights on the Colorado Plateau are open year-round, but spring, summer, and early fall are the best and the busiest seasons for a visit. During the high season from May to September, the parksespecially Grand Canyon, Zion, and Archesare crowded with vacationing families and international tourists.

In the higher elevations like Bryce Canyon, Grand Canyon, Mesa Verde, and Taos, winter is cold and snowy. These spots are much more sedate, though still steadily occupied, and prices are much lower in some areas. The Wetherill Mesa section of Mesa Verde and the North Rim of the Grand Canyon are both closed during winter.

Perhaps the best time to come to the Southwest is mid-September to early October. Youll find the major sights a bit less busy since school is in session. The days are mostly warm in the low country and moderate in the highlands, while the nights are generally cool and pleasant at low elevations and brisk and refreshing up high. And of course, the sky everywhere is big, blue, and cloudless.

Before You Go