Allyne S. Holland - Treasury of Smocking Designs

Outline Stitch

Stem Stitch

The outline and stem stitches worked together form the Wheat Stitch. You may begin with either outline stitch or stem stitch.

Wheat Stitch

This stitch is worked left to right and parallel to the gathering thread. For the first stitch the thread is held below the needle; on the next stitch, the thread is held above the needle. By alternating the position of the thread on each stitch, the cable stitch is formed. As you work, pull the pleats together gently, giving each stitch a slight tug in the appropriate upward or downward position; at the same time, push the stitch into position with your thumbnail. Keep the stitch tension even throughout and see that no fabric shows under the embroidery.

Cable Stitch

Two parallel rows of cable stitch, both worked from left to right, form the double cable. The second row of stitches is positioned opposite to the first; that is, the first row begins in the stem-stitch position while the second row begins in the outline-stitch position (this is called an Opposite Cable ). The stitches should lay neatly side by side, but should not overlap. Because the stitch resembles a chain, it is sometimes called Chain Stitch.

Double Cable

This is a base row of cable stitch (dark thread in diagram) with a second row worked alternately above and below the base row.

Alternating Cable

See section Decorative or Accent Embroidery Stitches, below.

Stacked Cables

Large areas of color can be filled in by working several rows of cable stitch, one on top of the other. Stacked cables are used primarily in picture smocking to create such motifs as teddy bears, ducks, sailboats, angels and baskets. Rows can be arranged as Opposite Stacked Cables (see double cable stitch for opposite cable), or they can be worked identically to each other (called Parallel Stacked Cables ). The parallel stacked cable is very tight and has little elasticity; hence, the opposite stacked cable is usually the preferred stitch. To insure proper sizing when working stacked cables, stretch the pleats to the desired width before beginning to smock. Work the first row, then take the needle to the back of the fabric and turn the piece upside down to begin the next row. Technique is important here, for each stitch must line up perfectly with the previous row. When beginning a new row, be sure that the stitches are aligned and, where stitches line up, that the needle will come out at parallel points.

Opposite Stacked-Cables

Parallel Stacked Cables

Besides wave and trellis stitch, honeycomb, surface honeycomb, vanDyke and herringbone stitches belong to this division. All of these stitches form a zigzag pattern, and all of them can vary in size. A wave stitch worked between two rows of gathering threads is called a Full-Space Wave; a wave stitch worked halfway between two gathering threads is called a Half-Space Wave. Stitches may be worked as parallels (two or more identical rows) or as opposites (two or more rows with one row the mirror image of the next). Parallel wave stitches may be worked so closely together that no fabric shows (Closed-Space Waves) or in a more open formation (Open-Space Waves).