Donald Drake - Uptown Down South

Uptown
Down South
Cuisine

Magnolias Restaurant

Don Drake

Photographs by John D. Smoak III

Uptown Down South Cuisine

Magnolias Restaurant

Digital Edition 1.0

Text 2015 Don Drake

Photographs 2015 John D. Smoak III

All rights reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced by any means whatsoever without written permission from the publisher, except brief portions quoted for purpose of review.

Gibbs Smith

P.O. Box 667

Layton, Utah 84041

Orders: 1.800.835.4993

www.gibbs-smith.com

ISBN: 978-1-4236-3920-6

I wish to acknowledge the following:

Suzi and T. J. Parsell for their encouragement, friendship and support in the project.

Mary Forlano for her endless hours deciphering my hieroglyphic writing, keeping me on track and assuring me the next one will be a piece of cake.

All the Magnolias alumni that contributed recipes for the book: Jeremy Ashby, Mark Graves, Ryan Dukes, Edwin French, Mike Dolberg, John Milner, Jeff Delmastro and Scott Popovic.

All the past and present chefs and sous chefs that helped Magnolias become the special place that the restaurant has evolved into the last 25 years: Donald Barickman, Casey Taylor, Cindy Ball, Gerald Mitchell, Glenn Swain, Frank Strauss, Mike Dragon, Brian Lyndsey, Norma Naparlo, Craig Deihl, John Milner, Katie Gulla, Adrian Pusser, Doug Beard, Kelly Franz, Kevin Southerland and James Simmons.

My present kitchen staff for holding the fort down while I was working on the project: Kelly, K-bone, James, Landice, Clarence, Sam and Ms. Marshall.

My pastry chef, Andrea Upchurch, who helped me through my shortcomings in the baking and pastry department.

John Smoak, our amazing photographer for this book.

Cathy Cuthbertson, a longtime family friend and copywriter/proofreader, who worked side by side with Mary to get this book done on time.

Our purveyors, whose answer is always, Yes, we can get that, and dear friends: Andrea and Jack Limehouse from Limehouse Produce, Tony Ritter from US Foods, Dan Long from Crosby Seafood, and all our local farmers and fishmongers.

My wife, Martha, and my two sons, Marshall and Travis. I love you all very much. Thank you!

It was 1989, and the city of Charleston was recovering from the aftermath of the devastation of Hurricane Hugo when my late father, Tom Parsell, purchased an old historic building in the French Quarter District. In fact, it was the site of the citys original Customs House in 1739. Despite the Quarter having become a rundown part of town in the preceding years, he had a vision to reinvigorate the area with a traditional Lowcountry fine dining restaurant. Magnolias opened soon after that, in 1990, igniting a culinary renaissance and paving the way for restaurants in Charleston and across the South with its upscale southern cuisine. Likewise, Charleston itself has become a premier culinary destination in the South.

As I reflect on the past 25 years at Magnolias, I think of the history that has taken place in the restaurantthe countless meals we have provided for guests, the training given to young chefs chasing their dream, and the memorable experiences that we have created for those that have visited us. I have personally enjoyed many of those experiences over that time, including the marriage proposal to my wife, Louisa, as well as my familys annual Christmas Eve dinner. This cookbook celebrates those great meals, our loyal patrons and the unprecedented talent that has come through the kitchenall of which have played a vital role in Magnolias success.

How does a restaurant continue to be successful and relevant after two and a half decades? By providing the highest level of food and service day in, day out. We have been very fortunate to have had an incredible management team in place throughout the years to maintain that consistency. Since 1991, Executive Chef Don Drake has been the driving force behind Magnolias ability to perpetuate the impeccable bar that has been set. His passion for food and hospitality continues to keep Magnolias at the top of its game, and I salute his dedication.

Chef Drake and I thought the 25th anniversary was the perfect time to refresh the restaurant space itself with a significant renovation to offer an updated environment with a new look. The dining room presents patrons with an enhanced experience complemented by the original southern charm for which Magnolias is best known. Similarly, we thought it was time for an updated cookbook. Inspired by Magnolias original menu, this celebratory book features signature dishes from Chef Drake, as well as recipes from successful chefs that have spent time in Magnolias kitchen. Our hope is that you will find recipes that will create as many special memories in your own kitchen as they have in ours.

TJ Parsell, President/Owner

Hospitality Management Group, Inc.

Magnolias/Blossom/Cypress/Artisan Meat Share

Introduction

When it comes to cooking, my philosophy is straightforward: cooking shouldnt have a strict set of rules, and it should always be fun. I encourage you to play around and experiment with the recipes and ingredients, have fun with them. But I do have a few rules that will make a difference in every recipe you cook, from simple to complex.

Always use fresh produce and the freshest ingredients possible. It is a waste of your time, energy and money to use mediocre ingredients because the food you produce is only as good as what you started with, no matter how good the recipe.

Because acidic ingredients, such as vinegars or tomatoes, react with aluminum to create a metallic taste or discolored sauces, use cast iron pots and nonreactive mixing bowls and utensils for most of these recipes. (Nonreactive simply means that the bowl, pot or container contains no aluminum.)

Try to keep most of your pantry items in a cool, dry place, out of direct sunlight and away from heat.

If youre just learning how to cook, start out with the easier recipes and work your way up as you gain confidence in your skills. Cooking is like most other arts: the more you practice, the better your craft becomes.

Ive grown accustomed to making big batches of food at Magnolias, so its hard to make small batches when Im at home. But if youre cooking just for two, go ahead and cut the recipe in halfthat way youre not wasting anything. Finally, make sure you have enough time to enjoy the fruits of all the effort you put into making the meal. Slow down, pour a big glass of iced tea or open a bottle of wine, and savor the meal with family and friends.

Many of the basic ingredients in these recipes are found in the kitchens of most home cooks across the nation or are readily available at local grocers. Other products are regional in availability, but with the rise in popularity of the Southern Food movement, most can be found wherever you live.

Put on your apron. Its time to start cooking.