Mountaineers - Mountaineering: Freedom of the Hills

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Table of Contents

Not long after I learned to read, I would grip the flashlight in my teeth and stay awake late into the night scouring my parents copy of the 3rd edition of Freedom of the Hills. I studied the mystifying aid climbing techniques and the challenging navigation skills, subjects I eventually mastered. But what this book captured, what it meant, what it hinted at that was so crucial to my fascination with mountaineering was this: Freedom, itself, was the most important thing. Freedom to explore who I am. Freedom afforded by learned skills to explore any mountain wilderness. Freedom to move, to climb. Its what still drives me today.

Steve House

The paradox is that, with a half century behind it, Freedom just grows better and better. Would that the aging process do as well for those of us who savor the wisdom within! Freedom is truly the Everest of mountaineering texts and a great preparation for a life wandering among high hills, including the big one itself.

Tom Hornbein

Growing up in Southern California in the 1960s, I couldnt find anyone who shared my passion to learn how to climb. So I bought an ice axe, crampons, and Freedom of the Hills and still remember being on a snow slope with axe in one hand, book in the other, trying to teach myself how to self-arrest. It worked: Im still around and still climbing.

Rick Ridgeway

My Mountaineering: The Freedom of the Hills is not just a book. To open my copy, a 5th edition, worn and frayed and with many vital passages underscored and noted by my pen, is to open a memory into what was certainly the most charged moment of my life, those teenage years hurtling forward and upward toward the vertical world that has come to not only represent my reason for living, but be the foundation for my values, education, and understanding of this world. I know Im not alone. For many generations of climbers, The Freedom of the Hills is more than just a book. Its a passport to a rare and wild place.

Andrew Bisharat

I have never felt more alive than when adventuring in remote mountains, dependent on a rope, a rack, and the partner thats got my back... Freedom of the Hills , risks best friend, is that partner.

Tmimy ONeill

As chief guide for Rainier Mountaineering for over 30 years, I have trained hundreds of new guides. And The Freedom of the Hills is the required textbook for their basic training on Mount Rainier. The new edition is even more valuable than ever. Thanks for the good work!

Lou Whittaker

My first exploration of Freedom of the Hills took place in the late 1960s when I was barely a teenager, but was passionate about climbing Northwest volcanoes and whatever else I could get under my cramponed feet. What I remember most were the how-to illustrations, which entertained while they taught and made learning a pleasure.

John Harlin III

The 2nd edition of Freedom of the Hills (as well as pictures of Bonatti in an old REI catalog) jump-started my climbing education. The manuals content has kept pace with the evolution of the sport and should be considered mandatory reading for every mountain climber. This truly remarkable resource has no equal in any language.

Mark Twight

Ive taught climbing on the worlds great mountains for 25 years, and so it is humbling to realize how much I can still learn from simply sitting in a chair and reading Freedom of the Hills. But the game keeps changing, with new technologies and new techniques, and Freedom does a remarkable job of staying not just current, but on the cutting edge. Turning on new climbers to this resource is one of the best things I can do to prepare them for life in the big hills.

Dave Hahn

If the mountains are my church, then Freedom is my bible. From my early 5.4 leads more than 25 years ago to present day, it has served me well as a base for exploring every facet of the mountains. As a very young climber I read it cover to cover, then dug through it again and again for nuggets of wisdom. I still do.

Will Gadd

I purchased my first copy of The Freedom of the Hills in 1976 and consumed it several times, well before I ever set foot in the mountains. Through the years, my well-worn copy became my guide and reference for the art of mountaineering. I would highly recommend this book as a must have for any aspiring mountaineers library.

Ed Viesturs

THE MOUNTAINEERS BOOKS is the nonprofit publishing arm of The Mountaineers, an organization founded in 1906 and dedicated to the exploration, preservation, and enjoyment of outdoor and wilderness areas.

1001 SW Klickitat Way, Suite 201, Seattle, WA 98134

1960, 1967, 1974, 1982, 1992, 1997, 2003, 2010 by The Mountaineers All rights reserved

First edition 1960. Second edition 1967. Third edition 1974. Fourth edition 1982. Fifth edition 1992. Sixth edition 1997. Seventh edition 2003. Eighth edition 2010.

No part of this book may be reproduced in any form, or by any electronic, mechanical, or other means, without permission in writing from the publisher.

Manufactured in the United States of America

Developmental Editor: Julie Van Pelt

Copy Editor: Kris Fulsaas

Cover and Book Design: Heidi Smets

Layout: Marge Mueller, Gray Mouse Graphics

Illustrators: Dennis Arneson; Andrea Arneson; Jim Hays; Electronic Illustrators Group; Marge Mueller, Gray-Mouse Graphics; Ani Rucki; Ramona Hammerly

Front cover photograph: Climber on Fox Glacier, Westland National Park, Southern Alps, New Zealand (photo by Colin Monteath/maxximages.com)

Spine photograph: Ice climber on vertical ice in Ouray Ice Park near Ouray, Colorado. Sergio Ballivian/Aurora Photos

Back cover photograph: Climbers on the Salbitnadel, Goscheneralp, Switzerland . Christof Sonderegger

Frontispiece: Two climbers on glacier in Bugaboo National Park, British Columbia, Canada . Kennan Harvey/Aurora Photos

Page 6: North Rim of the Black Canyon of the Gunnison National Park, Colorado . Kennan Harvey/Aurora Photos

Pages 12-13: Tents at Kahiltna Glacier airstrip camp on Mount Denali, Alaska . Craig Rowley

Pages 132-33: Climbers on the West Buttress of Mount Denali, Alaska . Craig Rowley

Pages 209-10: Simon Tappin on Fitz-In, Huntmans Leap, Pembroke, Wales . Simon Carter/Onsight Photography

Pages 318-39: Abby Watkins on Half n Half, Haffner Creek, British Columbia, Canada . Simon Carter, On-sight Photography

Pages 472-73: Karstens Ridge, Mount Denali, Alaska . Craig Rowley

Pages 530-31: Nieves penitentes between the West Col and Panch Pokhari Lakes, Nepal . Craig Rowley

Page 562: Crossing a stream below Amphu Laptsa Pass in the Khumbu region of Nepal. Craig Rowley

Trademarks and brand names used in this book: Alien; Allen wrench; ATC Guide; Avalung II; Band-Aid; Block Roll; Bug; Camalot; Camalot C3; Camalot C4; Cinch; Clean Mountain Can; Cordura; Curve Hex; DeLorme Topo USA; Diamox; Dyneema; Earthmate PN; Eddy; Ensolite; EpiPen; eTrex; Fat Cam; Friend; Gamow bag; Ghost; Google Earth; Gore-Tex; Green Trails Maps; Grigri; Hexentric; Hybrid Alien; Kevlar; Leave No Trace; Link Cam; Masonite; Mini Traxion; Molefoam; Moleskin; National Geographic TOPO!; National Geographic TOPO USA; Oregon series GPS; Panoramio; Parsol 1789; Pecker; Perlon; Phillips; Pro Traxion; Pyramid; Reverso3; Revolving Carabiner; RURP; SAM; Screamer; 2nd Skin; Spectra; Stairmaster; Steri-Strip; Stopper; Sum; Talon; Technical Friend; Teflon; TerraServer-USA; Tricam; Triton series GPS; Tuber II; Tyvek; Valley Giant cams; Velcro; Vibram; Wag Bag; Waste Case; WD-40; Web-o-lette; Z nailer

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