Walter Crane - India Impressions, With some notes of Ceylon during a winter tour, 1906-7.

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INDIA IMPRESSIONS

THE MANIKARNIK GHT BENARES

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INDIA IMPRESSIONS
WITH SOME NOTES OF CEYLON
DURING A WINTER TOUR, 19067
BY WALTER CRANE, R.W.S. WITH
A FRONTISPIECE IN COLOUR AND
NUMEROUS OTHER ILLUSTRATIONS
FROM SKETCHES BY THE AUTHOR

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NEW YORK
THE MACMILLAN COMPANY
1907

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TO MY WIFE
MY TRAVELLING COMPANION
ON THIS TOUR, AND TO WHOM
THE PROJECT WAS DUE, I
NOW INSCRIBE ITS RECORD

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PREFACE

Although many books descriptive of India and Indian life have recently appeared, even a short visit to that wonderful country presents so extraordinary a series of spectacles to the European, especially to one seeing the East for the first time, that it occurred to me that a few notes and fresh impressions from an artists point of view, accompanied by sketches made on the spot, as well as illustrations of the lighter side of travel, might not be without interest to the public.

Even apart from the enormous artistic interest and architectural splendours of India, which are so rich and abundant that one feels that hundreds of drawings would be necessary to give any adequate idea of their beauty, there is the human interest of these vast populations, among whom so many streams of race, language and religion are found, not to speak of the problems of government and administration they present.

I cannot claim to have had any special facilities in seeing the countryno more at least than might be at the command of an ordinary English tourist, and have trusted chiefly to what powers of observation I may possess in describing the various cities visited, and the districts traversed, and I offer these notes strictly as personal impressions.

Owing to ever increasing facilities of travel, the East is, in a sense, drawn nearer to the West, or, rather the West to the East, but nothing strikes the traveller so much as the apparently vast gulf dividing the dark-skinned races from the whitea gulf deeper and wider than the oceans.

I mean the profound differences in ideas, in religion, in sentiment, in life, habit and custom. Western influence where even it has had any apparent effectapart from commercial enterpriseseems to be but a thin veneer, and it is a constant wonder how the British should have been able to acquire and maintain their grasp over this vast peninsular, and to hold the balance between antagonistic races and creeds so long.

But it is not a comfortable thought for an Englishman, loving freedom, and accustomed to the principles of popular and representative government at home, to realise that this vast empire is held under the strictest autocratic system; and that the national aspirations that are now beginning to make themselves heard and felt should be entirely ignored, and the voice of native feeling sternly suppressed.

One can only hope that the great British people will take more trouble to study and understand their great Dependency, and not be prevented by official explanations from making independent inquiries and observations for themselves, and finally to be just and fear not.

If, however, in any way and from any point of view, these impressions may serve, in however slight a degree, to increase the interest of my own countrymen and women in India, I shall be very glad.

WALTER CRANE

Kensington , July 1907

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CONTENTS

CHAPTER	PAGE
Preface
I.	The Voyage
II.	Bombay and the Caves of Ellora
III.	Ahmedabad
IV.	Ahmedabad to Ajmir
V.	Chitorgarh and Udaipur
VI.	Jaipur
VII.	Agra
VIII.	Gwalior
IX.	Delhi
X.	Amritzar and Lahore
XI.	Lucknow
XII.	Benares
XIII.	CalcuttaDarjeeling
XIV.	Madras and the South
XV.	Notes of Ceylon
Index

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LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS IN THE TEXT

PAGE

Rough Sketch Map of India

London to Port Said, a Hieroglyphic of our Voyage

Coaling at Port Saidand after!

Spoiling the Egyptians? or being Despoiled by Them!

Sensation in Solar Topis

The Suez Canal

The Passage of the Red Sea (Therm: 88 or so!)

In the same Boata Contrast at Aden

Some Types among our Fellow Passengers

Landing at Bombay

Awaiting the CustomsBombay

Street PerformersBombay

Interview with Candidates for the Post of Bearermostly unbearable!

A Bed at the Dak Bungalow! Munmad (keep it Da(r)k)

We are introduced to the Caves of Ellora

And its Wasps

The Feet of Pilgrims (at Mohammedan Mosques)

Poor Relations

A Family PartyCranes on a Mango Tree (Sarbarmati River)

Street Scene, Ahmedabad. English Travellers sketching and making Purchases

The Camels Crinoline (Sugar Cane) Ajmir

First Elephant Ride. (Chitorgarh)

Rajputs and their Rarities. (Udaipur)

Hotel Accommodation (Jaipur), for your Ease and Comfort (or rather for the Easing of your Rupees?)

To Amber on an Elephant

Shopping in Jaipur

Aggravating Agra

The Mainstay of India. Aquariusthe Water-bearer

To Gwalior Fort by Palanquin

Callers at the Guest House, Gwalior

A Dash for the Dining-car at Agra Road

Delhi Driving. Wanteda Rule of the Road

She wont be Happy till She gets Everything packed up

Demon Hotel Touts at Amritzar fighting for their Prey

Through Amritzarsit tight and hold a Smelling Bottle!

An Indian Autolycus

Enjoying a Log Fire at Lahore

The Woman in White at Lahore (Suggestion for a Disguise Party)

The Merchants of Kashmir

In Hospital, Lucknow. The Operating Table (Patient had a Bit of Grit in her Eye after a Train Journey)Sixteen Rupees were extracted!

Jugglers at Lucknowthe Mango Tree Trick

Better Luck at Lucknowthrough the Chowk on an Elephant

The Maharajah places his Carriage at our Disposal

Benares: viewing the Ghats from the Maharajahs Peacock Boat

We see Snakes at Benares

The Maharajahs Reception, decorating the Visitors

The Soothsayer at Calcutta(or Palmistry under the Palms)

The Darjeeling Toy-Railway trying to catch its own Tail!

Characters in a Tibetan Masque, Darjeeling

The shy Peak of Kinchin Junga

A Ride at Darjeeling: up Hill spare Me

A Hailstone ChorusDeparture from Darjeeling

Calcutta to MadrasSection of Sleeperor Something like It

Ladies or Gentlemen? (Fashions in Southern India)

Madrasa Jin-rickshaw made for Two

TanjoreNative TheatreHouse full. Performance from 9 p.m. till 2 a.m.but We didnt stop to see It through

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