ROBERT HEYWOOD
Of The Pike, Bolton
PRIVATELY PRINTED
Explanation.
This account of a journey to Russia was read by Mr. Heywood at a meeting of the Bolton Mechanics' Institute, and the following is a copy of a resolution passed on the occasion, with the signatures attached.
We, the undersigned members of the Committee of the Bolton Mechanics' Institution, having listened with much pleasure to Mr. Heywood's lecture on his recent visit to St. Petersburg and Moscow, and being desirous that the valuable information it supplies should be made available to our families, fellow workmen and others, who are greatly interested in the subject from the large commercial intercourse between this town and the capitals of Russia, beg leave most respectfully to request Mr. Heywood to publish the substance of his valuable paper for the gratification and information of the public. And we request the President of the Institution to wait upon Mr. Heywood with this requisition, and to use his best efforts to induce that gentleman to accede to our request.
| GILBERT J. FRENCH. |
| THOS. HOLDEN. |
| JOHN WRIGLEY. |
| ALFRED RIDINGS. |
| JAMES FOGG. |
| ALEX. LAWSON. |
| EDWARD BLAND. |
| JOHN LOMAX. |
| WM. JACKSON. |
| THOMAS WATERHOUSE. |
| JOSH. PEAT. |
| J. J. BRADSHAW. |
| THOMAS BROMLEY. |
| JOSEPH KIRKHAM. |
| ISAAC BARROW. |
| ADAM FERGUSON. |
| WILLIAM A. FERGUSON. |
| W. H. HORROCKS. |
The request, however, was not put into execution.
M. H., 1918.
A JOURNEY IN RUSSIA IN 1858.
At the urgent request of our worthy and most active President, I have been induced to follow the example of several other friends of this Institution, and bring before you some account of a short visit to St. Petersburg and Moscow.
I may premise that about fourteen years ago, on our return from Egypt, vi Constantinople, I and my companion, Mr. Charles Darbishire, were placed in quarantine at a station overlooking the Black Sea. Along with us we had a Russian nobleman and his tutor, who were returning from a pilgrimage to Jerusalem.
During the fifteen days' confinement, whilst occupying separate apartments, we frequently interchanged visits, and on such occasions the manners and condition of our respective countries became the frequent subject of conversation.
Such discussions did not terminate without receiving urgent invitations to visit Russia, offering, at the same time, to procure for us every facility for seeing the cities to advantage; and also an order from the gentleman's father, who was at the head of the postal department, which would command for us horses and conveyances through every part of Russia.
Since that time I have frequently contemplated visiting the north of Europe, but, from various causes, have deferred such undertaking till the last summer, when, finding my fellow traveller unwilling to leave home, I induced another individual to accompany me after much difficulty in reconciling herself to so long an absence from attractions usually found at home.
We set off on the 17th of June, and sailed the following day from Grimsby for St. Petersburg in the "Atlantic," a fine screw steamer, 1,600 tons burden, 284 feet long, and engines of 400 horse power, with thirty passengers.
On setting out the weather was delightful, with a smooth sea, so that we remained on deck all day, enjoying the promenade, though it was somewhat restricted by numerous bales of cotton.
The following day proved cloudy and much colder, followed by a stiff breeze through the night, rocking some of us without getting us to sleep.
On the 20th we rejoiced to see terra firma, and about ten in the evening landed a passenger at Elsinore.
Here the sea becomes much narrower, bringing into view more than fifty vessels, no longer delayed by the payment of Sound dues which were compounded for some years ago with the kingdom of Denmark.
Early the following morning we anchored opposite Copenhagen, and a boat being sent off for provisions, enabled some of us to go ashore and walk through some of the principal streets and take a glance at one of their numerous public gardens.
On resuming our course, we passed a long range of nets kept afloat by logs of wood every thirty or forty yards; and near Goat Island we observed a large number of planks floating by for several hours, the cargo of some unfortunate vessel. Here we saw three gulls, the only birds we had observed in all our passage, and no fish, not even a porpoise, which should more readily be excused as they are mostly seen in stormy weather.
In the course of conversation with one of the passengers we were glad to learn that our Russian friend was residing in one of the palaces at St. Petersburg, and also that he would be able to render us most valuable services.
We arrived at Cronstadt on the 24th, having had on the whole a pleasant voyage, with agreeable company, but not without some feeling of commiseration for the poor stokers working so hard in a dusty heated atmosphere.
Cronstadt is the chief station of the Russian navy, and the fortifications are very extensive, including two circular batteries a short distance from the shore, having three tiers and a range of guns at the top, but so ill-constructed, we were told, as to be rendered almost useless for want of ventilation.
Here our passports were examined, and the passengers along with their luggage were transferred to a smaller steamer to convey us up the Neva to St. Petersburg.
Soon after leaving Cronstadt, on the right are seen the gilded towers of the palace of Peterhof, and a little further we discern a large golden ball, the dome of St. Isaac, with the glittering taper spire rising from the Admiralty. Approaching nearer, we see numerous domes and spires, painted blue and green, with silver and golden stars.
Along the banks of the Neva are quays, constructed in the most substantial manner out of large blocks of granite.
Before being permitted to land there was a further inspection of our passports, and our luggage was conveyed to the searching house. Here we found a commissioner from the Miss Bensons, the proprietresses of a celebrated boarding-house, to whom we had written a short time before. Having but a few books, the examination passed off very quickly, and we were soon conveyed to their delightful establishment, beautifully situated on the English Quay.
It was well that we had written, as we found the house quite full, consisting chiefly of English travellers; everything proved so nice and comfortable that we soon found ourselves more at home than we could have expected.
So far I have proceeded as from a diary, but in future, though I shall confine myself almost entirely to such objects as come under our actual notice, I shall find it necessary in describing many particulars to quote largely from Murray and some other authorities.
The weather, we were told, had been very wet and cold for a much longer period than usual, but had suddenly changed to brighter skies and a delightful atmosphere. The days, of course, are here much longer, but what surprised us most was the brilliant twilight, eclipsing every star and enabling us to read the newspaper at midnight.
