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editors at Americas Test Kitchen - Comfort food makeovers: all your favorite foods made lighter

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Forget about saying goodbye to all your favorite guilty pleasures - weve put the foods you love back on the menu. Weve revamped over 175 feel-good favorites (like creamy Macaroni and Cheese, Meat and Cheese Lasagna, and Fudgy Brownies) including 50 comfort-food restaurant favorites from the likes of The Cheesecake Factory (New York-Style Cheesecake), Olive Garden (Fettuccini Alfredo), Chilis (Nachos), and Au Bon Pain (Cinnamon Rolls) slashing thousands of calories and hundreds of grams of fat along the way. How did we do it? We put flavor first and used our test kitchen experience, smart ingredient substitutions (no fake fats or artificial sweeteners allowed), and innovative cooking techniques to make comfort food that youll actually be comfortable eating. Comfort Food Makeovers isnt simply a collection of these tested and perfected recipes; its an arsenal of fat and calorie-cutting strategies you can put to use. Use them to transform your own recipes into better tasting food thats better for you. We include a list of our key go-to ingredients that helped lighten or add flavor to the recipes in the book, as well as the essential equipment we found ourselves using again and again as we developed the recipes over time. Dramatic before and after counts for calories, grams of fat, and grams of saturated fat appear with each recipe, and full nutritional information for the recipes is provided at the back of the book.

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COMFORT
FOOD
MAKEOVERS

ALL YOUR FAVORITES MADE LIGHTER

BY THE EDITORS AT

Americas Test Kitchen

PHOTOGRAPHY BY

Daniel J. van Ackere

ADDITIONAL PHOTOGRAPHY BY

Carl Tremblay

Copyright 2013 by the Editors at Americas Test Kitchen

All rights reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced or transmitted in any manner whatsoever without written permission from the publisher, except in the case of brief quotations embodied in critical articles or reviews.

AMERICAS TEST KITCHEN
17 Station Street, Brookline, MA 02445

Library of Congress
Cataloging-in-Publication Data
Comfort food makeovers : all your favorites made lighter / by the editors at Americas Test Kitchen ; photography by Daniel J. van Ackere ; additional photography by Carl Tremblay.
pages cm
Includes index.
Epub ISBN: 978-1-936493-63-0
1. Comfort food. 2. Low-calorie diet-- Recipes. 3. Low-fat diet--Recipes. I.
Americas Test Kitchen (Firm)
TX740.C645 2013
641.5635--dc23
2012038539

Paperback: $26.95 US

Manufactured in the United States of America

10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1

DISTRIBUTED By Americas Test Kitchen
17 Station Street, Brookline, MA 02445

EDITORIAL DIRECTOR: Jack Bishop

EDITORIAL DIRECTOR, BOOKS: Elizabeth Carduff

EXECUTIVE EDITOR: Lori Galvin

EXECUTIVE FOOD EDITOR: Julia Collin Davison

ASSOCIATE EDITORS: Kate Hartke, Christie Morrison, Dan Zuccarello

ASSISTANT EDITOR: Alyssa King

TEST COOKS: Danielle DeSiato-Hallman, Ashley Moore, Rebecca Morris

ASSISTANT TEST COOK: Stephanie Pixley

ART DIRECTOR: Greg Galvan

DESIGNER: Taylor Argenzio

FRONT COVER PHOTOGRAPH: Carl Tremblay

STAFF PHOTOGRAPHER: Daniel J. van Ackere

ADDITIONAL PHOTOGRAPHY: Carl Tremblay, Keller + Keller, and Steve Klise

FOOD STYLING: Catrine Kelty, Marie Piraino

PHOTOSHOOT KITCHEN TEAM:

ASSOCIATE EDITOR: Chris OConnor

ASSISTANT TEST COOKS: Daniel Cellucci, Sara Mayer

PRODUCTION DIRECTOR: Guy Rochford

SENIOR PRODUCTION MANAGER: Jessica Quirk

SENIOR PROJECT MANAGER: Alice Carpenter

PRODUCTION AND TRAFFIC COORDINATOR: Brittany Allen

WORKFLOW AND DIGITAL ASSET MANAGER: Andrew Mannone

PRODUCTION AND IMAGING SPECIALISTS: Heather Dube, Lauren Pettapiece, Lauren Robbins

COPYEDITOR: Jeffrey Schier

PROOFREADER: Elizabeth Wray Emery

INDEXER: Elizabeth Parson

PICTURED ON COVER:

Contents

Welcome to Americas Test Kitchen

This book has been tested, written, and edited by the folks at Americas Test Kitchen, a very real 2,500-squarefoot kitchen located just outside of Boston. It is the home of Cooks Illustrated magazine and Cooks Country magazine and is the Monday-through-Friday destination for more than three dozen test cooks, editors, food scientists, tasters, and cookware specialists. Our mission is to test recipes over and over again until we understand how and why they work and until we arrive at the best version.

We start the process of testing a recipe with a complete lack of conviction, which means that we accept no claim, no theory, no technique, and no recipe at face value. We simply assemble as many variations as possible, test a half-dozen of the most promising, and taste the results blind. We then construct our own hybrid recipe and continue to test it, varying ingredients, techniques, and cooking times until we reach a consensus. The result, we hope, is the best version of a particular recipe, but we realize that only you can be the final judge of our success (or failure). As we like to say in the test kitchen, We make the mistakes, so you dont have to.

All of this would not be possible without a belief that good cooking, much like good music, is indeed based on a foundation of objective technique. Some people like spicy foods and others dont, but there is a right way to saut, there is a best way to cook a pot roast, and there are measurable scientific principles involved in producing perfectly beaten, stable egg whites. This is our ultimate goal: to investigate the fundamental principles of cooking so that you become a better cook. It is as simple as that.

You can watch us work (in our actual test kitchen) by tuning in to Americas Test Kitchen (AmericasTestKitchenTV.com) or Cooks Country from Americas Test Kitchen (CooksCountryTV.com) on public television, or by subscribing to Cooks Illustrated magazine (CooksIllustrated.com) or Cooks Country magazine (CooksCountry.com). We welcome you into our kitchen, where you can stand by our side as we test our way to the best recipes in America.

Preface

Makeovers are the very essence of the American experience, from Queer Eye for the Straight Guy to This Old House, but, in Vermont, makeovers are less popular. I am reminded of the story of a kindhearted lady from Cavendish who was always on the lookout to invite a less fortunate soul over for a good meal during the holidays. One Christmas, she invited the local handyman, who was a bit eccentriche wore several suits of long underwear during the winter along with two pairs of pants and several shirts, and he lived in squalid quarters. She met him on the street and extended the invitation, at which point he said that he would have to think it over. A few days later, he gave his reply as follows: I thank you for your kindness but Ive been thinking it over and I just dont know. Id have to take off my clothes, take some kind of bath, and then try to find something else to wear. And Ive about decided that it aint worth it!

In the test kitchen, recipe makeovers have been controversial. One group of cooks, including myself, wondered if it would be best to let comfort food classics alone. Do we really want to replace fat in a chocolate cake with prunes or applesauce? But when our own test kitchen undertook makeover projects (without silly substitutions), I found myself reaching for more. In fact, many of these recipes were so good that I actually preferred them to the originals. It wasnt about reducing fat or calories; it was about creating something that I actually liked more. That extra fat was often obscuring the flavor of the food itselfthe leaner cupcake, muffin, or lasagna was, in fact, better.

To achieve truly revelatory makeovers, however, requires that one discard the easy and sometimes fraudulent methods employed by many test kitchens. No more tiny servingsthe classic ruse used by food manufacturersand no silly and off-putting ingredients such as the aforementioned prunes and applesauce in chocolate cake. Just because it looks like a chocolate cake doesnt mean that it tastes like one!

We had lofty goals for our makeovers. We aimed to cut calories by a third (we ended up averaging 41 percent) and fat by half (final average was 65 percent).But the major rule was that the food had to taste good and be as similar as possible to, for instance, the that we had started with. We had to love it or leave itif the latter, we simply moved on to the next recipe challenge.

Many of these recipes started their lives in restaurants and fast-food establishments, so we slimmed down and improved dishes such as McDonalds Quarter Pounder with Cheese (our (a strange but successful use of Honey Nut Cheerios!).

In the end, I think of these recipes as my new comfort food repertoire, not my go-to versions only when I am watching my weight. I prefer cleaner, leaner recipes that still have a good level of fat but use it wisely and to best effect. Since the culinary arts are a work in progressone generation revises the recipes from the prior onethis makes perfect sense. In the past 50 years, my tastes have changed and I want my food to step up to the plate and deliver big flavors that are not obscured with thick layers of cheese, cream, and butter. I want my chocolate cake to taste, well, like chocolate cake. And thats the essence of this bookif it doesnt taste good, if it doesnt satisfy, then you wont find it on these pages. A simple rule but one that ensures that a comfort food makeover is the real deal, not an ersatz imitation! (Try the Chocolate Cupcakes and you will see what I mean.)

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