This book is dedicated
to Mom with love
2011 by Bradley Ogden
Photographs 2011 by Jeremy Ball
Published by Running Press,
A Member of the Perseus Books Group
All rights reserved under the Pan-American and International Copyright Conventions
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ISBN: 978-0-7624-3915-7
Library of Congress Control Number: 2011928972
E-book ISBN: 978-0-7624-4359-8
9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1
Digit on the right indicates the number of this printing
Cover and interior design by Amanda Richmond
Typography: Berkeley, La Portentia, and Gotham
Running Press Book Publishers
2300 Chestnut Street
Philadelphia, PA 19103-4371
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CONTENTS
T HIS BOOK IS A CULMINATION OF THREE DECADES OF COOKING FOR THE holidays. These recipes were refined at home in my kitchen and not too long ago just a dream to publish.
I would like to thank Lydia Scott for all her dedicated work to make this book and my dream a reality. My editor, Geoffrey Stone, for his guidance, knowledge, and support. My sons Chad and Bryan, also chef graduates from the Culinary Institute of America, and Cory Ogden, the doctor of the family, for making me proud. A special thanks to Bryan for his excellent taste and wisdom of wine and to Jody Ogden for her years of encouragement and expertise. A special thank-you to Maricla Salcido for her support in testing, tasting, organizing, and typing my recipes.
I would like to express my deepest gratitude to my close friends, Maria Ferrer Murdock, Michael and Sandy DeRousse, and Carolyn Stuart for their overall influence, advice, patience, and support. Thank you to Jeremy Ball for the photographs, Amanda Richmond for the art direction and book design, Ricardo Jattan and Jackie Prophit for the styling; Sparrow Lane Vinegars, for continuously supplying their fine wine vinegars; and Wes Hagen for his wine.
Finally, I am eternally grateful for the contribution of my fellow chefs from Root 246 Restaurant, Brian Ridgeway, Yohan Denizot, and Daniel Talaima, and Iris Rideau and John Martino from Chumash Casino Resort, and to my business partners, Michael and Leslye Dellar.
And to all my friends and neighbors who volunteered their talents, taste tested my recipes, and offered their helpful and meaningful critiques.
I T WAS IN THE 1980S WHEN I WAS WORKING WITH THE LATE JAMES BEARD that I first heard of Bradley Ogden. Each year Beard went to San Francisco to conduct a series of classes and always stayed at Campton Place. Without fail, he came back quite impressed with the quality of Bradleys ingredients, his use of inspired flavors, and his exquisite execution of the food. Bradleys upbringing in Michigan unknowingly prepared him for his culinary journey where fresh trout, just-hatched chicken eggs, and his grandmothers homemade pies were taken for granted. Food from scratch would come to form the backbone of his approach to cooking for others.
He trained at the Culinary Institute of America in Hyde Park, New York, and had come to California via The American Restaurant in Kansas City, which was one of the foremost restaurants of its time in the Midwest. In Kansas City, Bradley had utilized local farm purveyors and farmers and brought that same sensibility with him to the West Coast.
When Bradley was arriving on the scene, there were other chefs on the same American fresh food bandwagon, each with an individual style. Their menus were driven by the bounty of the season (still a novelty in some areas today) with great importance given to the provenance of the produce. It was only a matter of time before this concept began to make an impact around the country. At Beards house, where the James Beard Foundation is now located, on West 12th Street in New York City, I witnessed a pilgrimage of visiting chefs who would drop by to receive the masters blessing; Bradley was among them.
A fewyears ago, Bradley started conceptualizing this book. He envisioned one that celebrated holidays throughout the year. It is clear why it covers Thanksgiving, Christmas, and New Years with a slight nod to summer celebrations. The end-of-the-year holidays are our most cherished ones, and this book allows more concentration and dedication to these holidays. Its in this spirit he shares an abundance of good food, which connects us to loving friends and family in the kitchen and around a festive table.
Holiday Dinners with Bradley Ogden is a comprehensive reference to our three most important holidays of the year. While paying homage to our traditional holiday menus, Bradley has brought the old into the new with added life and sparkle. He teases us with some non-traditional recipes like his wonderful signature dish, Twice-Baked Blue Cheese Souffls. This book offers a simplistic approach to timely recipes for you to create for the holidays. It makes holiday cooking even more pleasurable.
CAROLINE STUART,
Cofounder James Beard Foundation and cookbook author
P EOPLE HAVE MANY GIFTS IN LIFEMUSIC, LANGUAGES, PAINTING, and even gab. Mine is a special talent for food. I spent the summers of my youth on my grandmothers farm in Windsor, Ontario. In retrospect, this was the beginning of a fabulous career that I never could have recognized at the time. Both of my grandmothers were great cooks. I believe my mother was as well, although with seven children to look after, she seldom had the opportunity to really demonstrate what she knew. My father, on the other hand, considered himself the worlds greatest cook, and was especially known for his breads and homemade ice cream. Of course, the young spindly arms of my six brothers and sister and me were the engine for his churned creations. Nevertheless, to us, it wasnt about hard labor but rather playing a game, resulting in a reward of creamy fresh flavors, from cherry to peach to strawberry, all of which we felt were awesome.
Being around good cooks was important for educating my young palate, but the other even more essential lessons were learned from the farm, regarding the importance of seasonal fresh quality ingredients. Every season held a gift of fresh new produce to be picked, prepared, and, most importantly, enjoyed. I vividly remember anticipating certain times of the year for summer tomatoes fresh off the vine, asparagus and morels in the spring, pumpkin and macintosh apples in the fall. There is nothing more flavorful than the simplicity of a farm-fresh egg or a trout taken from an icy creek and placed directly into a sizzling frying pan. Experiencing and appreciating these pure unadulterated tastes and flavors unwittingly helped lay the foundation for my cooking philosophy and successful career.
There is no exception to my love of all things fresh from the farm. These days that means regular visits to my local farmers market to buy seasonal items, and purchasing organic and sustainable produce and meats. Its the best way to get the fresh flavors I remember so well from childhood. Still, when I come across cherries I have mixed feelings of love and dread. Im sure this came from overexposure, brought out by the fact that I had to spend endless hours picking them in my youth. Fortunately, Ive long ago learned to appreciate cherries for what they are, and find great satisfaction in cooking with them, as long as I dont have to pick em!
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