Lou Seibert Pappas - Harvest of Pumpkins and Squash

There is a plethora of winter squash varieties, many of which are now standard features at produce markets. They differ greatly in size, shape, and exterior color, yet all have a sweet yellow or orange flesh. (That colorful flesh reflects the fact that most winter squash are a great source of vitamins and minerals. One of the most prevalent nutrients is beta-carotene, which has powerful antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties. Winter squash also contain vitamin C, potassium, dietary fiber, omega-3 fatty acids, and various B vitamins.) When selecting, look for squash with dull skins and a heavy feel. Lighter, shinier squash may not be fully ripe.

Winter squash are at their prime from September to February. Excellent keepers, they will stay fresh for up to six months if stored in a dry, dark place. Use as pretty centerpieces before cooking. Once cut, wrap in plastic and refrigerate.

Unlike summer squash, which are good to eat raw, winter squash must be cooked. Cooking tenderizes their fibers and turns them smooth and creamy. Home cooks are discovering how easy it is to microwave, bake, and roast winter squash. (Boiling and steaming tend to introduce more water into the squash and so they are less appealing cooking methods.)

As you cook with winter squash varieties, it is easy to develop favorites. Butternut rates high for all-around versatility in soups, pies, casseroles, and breads, with its rich, deep orange, fine-textured flesh. Kabocha and buttercup are not quite as sweet but are excellent, too. Acorn is a natural for baking and serving in the half-shell. More mild-flavored banana and Hubbard squash are ideal for serving as a side dish. Note, although most winter squash can be used interchangeably in recipes, spaghetti squash is an exception. It is more like a cross between a summer and winter variety; when cooked, the interior separates into pale golden filaments that are moist and tender like zucchiniand yes, like spaghetti!

The best pumpkins for cooking and baking are small to medium pie pumpkins such as Sugar, Sugar Pie, New England Pie, Baby Bear, or Triple Treat. Some of the newer ornamental white varieties, such as Lumina or Fairytale, are good both for decoration and eating. The pantry standby, canned pumpkin pure, is now widely available from many high-quality producers and is a fine choice for many dishes, as well as in a pinch. Winter squash pures are readily available as well.

To prepare winter squash for cooking, first rinse the squash. Cut it in half lengthwise or cut off a topknot if using the shell for a container. A cleaver is a useful tool on very hard rinds if halving; use a very sturdy knife to cut out tops. Scoop out the seeds and fibers and discard (unless you are going to toast the seeds). Cut large squash into serving size pieces.

The easiest method for cooking winter squash is baking it in a conventional oven or cooking it in a microwave oven. Place squash halves cut side down in a parchment paperlined baking dish and bake at 350 to 375F until tender when pierced with a knife, 50 minutes to 1 hour. Or, microwave in a covered dish with a tablespoon or two of water for 7 to 10 minutes per pound; let stand a few minutes to finish cooking.

Appliance experts recommend preheating an oven for 30 minutes before baking. This is especially important with newer ovens. It is smart to check your oven with a portable oven thermometer placed in the oven. The recipes in this book include doneness cues plus cooking time ranges.