Sara Deseran - Picnics: Delicious Recipes for Outdoor Entertaining

Text copyright 2004 by Chronicle Books LLC

Photographs copyright 2004 by Jonelle Weaver

All rights reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced in any form without written permission from the publisher.

ISBN 978-1-4521-2848-1
The Library of Congress has cataloged the previous edition as follows:
Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data: Deseran, Sara.

Picnics : delicious recipes for outdoor entertaining / by Sara Deseran; photographs by Jonelle Weaver.

p. cm.

Includes index.

ISBN 978-0-8118-4299-0 (hardcover)

1. Outdoor cookery. 2. Picnicking. I. Title.

TX823.D473 2004

641.5 ' 78dc22

2003017326

Design: Carole Goodman, Blue Anchor Design

Prop stylist: Paige Hicks

Food stylist: Liza Jernow

Assistant food stylist: Jennifer Cohen

Photographers assistant: Teresa Horgan

Photographer Jonelle Weaver wishes to give special thanks to Paige Hicks, Liza Jernow, Jennifer Cohen, and Teresa Horgan for long hours of work; Scott and Lisa Isherwood, Kate Green, The Parker House Inn, and The Quechee Lakes Association for lovely locations; and Per Furmark for home base support.

Chronicle Books LLC

680 Second Street

San Francisco, California 94107

www.chroniclebooks.com

Coke is a registered trademark of The Coca-Cola Co., Corona is a registered trademark of Cerveceria Modelo S.A. DE C.V., Igloo is a registered trademark of Igloo Products Corporation, Oreo is a registered trademark of Nabisco Brands Co., Pacifico is a registered trademark of Cerveceria del Pacifico, A.S. De C.V., San Pellegrino is a registered trademark of San Pellegrino S.P.A., Tabasco is a registered trademark of Mcilhenny Co., Thermos is a registered trademark of King-Seeley Thermos Co., Tupperware is a registered trademark of Dart Industries, Tony Chacheres Seasoning is a registered trademark of Creole Foods, Inc. of Opelousas.

Thanks to everyone that gave feedback on recipes for this book, including Alan and Jina, the 7x7 potluck team, and my husband, Colin. Thanks to Leslie and the Chronicle Books staff for calling me up, and I can never say enough to Dad, the dishwasher, and Mom, my silent partner, who developed, shopped, cooked, and tested ten variations of a peach crisp before we decided on a nectarine tart!

THERES SOMETHING ABOUT ABANDONING THE FORMALITIES OF THE dining room and taking it outdoors that just makes food taste better. Utensils are optional; so are tables and chairs. Suddenly, what matters most isnt a pressed linen tablecloth or crystal goblets, but a beautiful vista and the shade of a tree. Maybe its the fresh air, but with the kitchen far away, appetites seem to grow even more ravenous.

One of the joys of picnicking is that there are no hard rules. The idyllic scene you see in movies (you know, the one with a wicker basket and red-and-white checked blanket laid out in a breezy meadow dotted with poppies) is just one of countless scenarios. In real life, a picnic is just as likely to be a reward at the end of a long hike, a backyard barbecue under a low-slung oak, or a romantic brown-bag lunch for two in a city park. Its a tailgate party, a beach cookout, and a playground potluck.

And there are so many good reasons to take it outside. Picnics make the most of a stunning summer day and the view of a setting sun. With no confines of a house, theres plenty of space for the kids (and the adults) to play. And from a practical standpoint, cleaning up isnt much of an issue. No dusting the house before the guests arrive, no washing a mile-high pile of dishes and silverware for hours after they depart.

Perhaps the hardest thing about a picnic is deciding what to make. Last minute cooking is out; you have to think about what will hold up for a couple hours out of the fridge. And unfortunately, the casual element of a picnic often lowers everyones standards, relegating it to a spread of soda, hot dogs, and chips.

But there are plenty of ways to create a picnic thats just as memorable as your last dinner party, without making a pit stop at the mini-mart. A homemade sweet roasted pepper relish can take grilled sausages to new heights (just dont skimp on the buns). Summer berry puddinga 20-minute endeavorbeats the biggest bag of Oreos. And if nothing else, a nice selection of cheese, fruit, cured meats, and a crusty baguette is a no-cook guarantee.

Still, sometimes its fun to raise the bar for special occasions: a wedding anniversary calls for cold salmon, asparagus salad, and a frosty bottle of champagne (maybe even served in crystal flutes); a birthday becomes a real party with homemade coconut cupcakes. Even sandwiches dont have to be made up of deli meats and presliced cheese. Try a roasted eggplant sandwich with herbed goat cheese or even a spicy Vietnamese sandwich stuffed with a crunchy daikon and carrot slaw.

Food may be the centerpiece of a good picnic, but dont neglect the beverage choice. Although winter picnics call for a thermos of mulled cider, most picnicking is done when the summer sun is out. On sweltering days, a good refreshing drink can be the highlight of the menu.

Most importantly, think light. For beers, pilsners and ales are perfect. Icy bottles of Mexican labels, like Corona and Pacifico, are always good, especially when topped with a wedge of lime.

When choosing wines, go for easy-drinking choices such as Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Blanc, drier Rieslings (look for those from Australia), and Pinot Grigio; these whites tend to be more food-friendly (and hot weather friendly) than the ever-popular buttery and oaky Chardonnays. Good quality ross are also another wonderful choice. (And dont completely dismiss all reds; a Beaujolais Nouveau, slightly chilled, is another excellent option.) Unless a special occasion demands the very best champagne, there are plenty of affordable sparkling wines that will go well with everything from a sandwich to slow-roasted salmon. Look for an Italian Prosecco or a Spanish Cava. A bottle of these sprightly sparklers is reasonably priced and provides something thats both delicious and casual.

Although martinis arent what youre looking for, mixed drinks are another option. For a picnic, its best to go heavy on the fresh-fruit mixers and light on the spirit. Try slices of fresh pineapple stirred into pineapple juice mixed with tequila, and a splash of grenadine or an icy pitcher of fresh-squeezed lime margaritas. Sangria, made with either red or white wine, is fun. Fresh herbs add a nice twist: the mojito, a popular Cuban drink, is made with copious amounts of fragrant mint, and a few crushed leaves of lemon verbena or pineapple sage delicately add another dimension to a glass of sparkling wine.

Virgin coolers are a wonderful alternative to the usual Igloo full of Coke. Offer things like fresh lemonade with ginger and honey or iced tea made with any number of teas (both herbal and black) or mixed with cranberry or hibiscus juice. Mexican-inspired aguas frescas made with pures of fresh fruit such as watermelon, cantaloupe, or mango are also wonderful.

And last, but not least, dont forget the waterstill water (sparkling waters often have sodium in them). Keep a cooler full of bottled water or a pitcher or two out on the table. You dont want your guests to get dehydrated.

Once youve got your picnic fare prepared, its time to get it ready to go. A good selection of airtight plastic containers is essential to have on hand. Not only do they keep things fresh, they keep more delicate items like vegetables and fruit from getting crushed. Tiny containers are perfect for storing salad dressings until its time to dress the salad, and will keep a handful of sliced almonds crisp until youre ready to scatter them over the green beans. Long, flat containers work well for transporting skewered meats, prepped to throw on the grill. And theres no need to transfer a salad from a plastic container to a proper serving bowl once you arrive at the picnic. Tupperware and other brands now make attractive bowls that are meant to serve both purposes; just remove the top and use the same container to serve.