Sara Deseran - Tacolicious: Festive Recipes for Tacos, Snacks, Cocktails, and More

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To Mia, Moss, and Silas, who came about long before their namesake drinks

Copyright 2014 by Sara Deseran and Joe Hargrave
Photographs copyright 2014 by Alex Farnum

All rights reserved.
Published in the United States by Ten Speed Press, an imprint of the Crown Publishing Group, a division of Random House LLC, a Penguin Random House Company, New York.
www.crownpublishing.com
www.tenspeed.com

Ten Speed Press and the Ten Speed Press colophon are registered trademarks of Random House LLC

Photo on appears courtesy of the authors.

Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data
Deseran, Sara.
Tacolicious : festive recipes for tacos, snacks, cocktails, and more / Sara Deseran with Joe Hargrave, Antelmo Faria, and Mike Barrow.
pages cm
1. Mexican American cooking. 2. Snack foods. 3. Tacos.
I. Hargrave, Joe. II. Faria, Antelmo. III. Barrow, Mike (Restauranteur) IV. Title.
TX715.2.S69D468 2014
641.5926872073dc23

2013051109

Hardcover ISBN: 978-1-60774-562-4
eBook ISBN: 978-1-60774-563-1

Food and prop styling by Christine Wolheim

v3.1

Contents

Gracias

From Sara

Recipe testers are like life insurance for a cookbook, and we had a few awesome ones, including Ann Deseran (or Nana, as shes known around here) and her sidekick, Andy (aka Grandpa), who made more than a few new friends as they threw countless Mexican feasts at their house in Sonoma.

Then theres the supremely stylish Lauren Godfrey, the food blogger of wegolden.com and owner of the gorgeous San Francisco home where we shot much of the photography. Lauren even woke up early one morning to get a tamale-making lesson from our cook Virginia Hinojosa (and then made the laborious tamales twice more just to be sure she got the recipe right).

Despite their hectic jobs, Mike Barrow, our director of beverage, and Telmo Faria, our executive chef, set aside their time to work on this book. This is not to mention T-lish chefs Mike Garcia and Caitlin Olmstead, and their kitchen staff, who found time to help develop and test recipes, as did our bar managers, Jeremy Harris and Josh Forth.

We love photographer Alex Farnum because hes the best (and not because hes a regular at Tacolicious), and we feel similarly about creative director Emma Campion (who, back in our nascent days, hired Tacolicious to cater her wedding). Thanks to Emily Timberlake, Jenny Wapner, and copy editor Sharon Silva for making us seem smarter, and to stylist Christine Wolheim for outfitting the food in such cool attire and sporadically breaking into dance throughout the shoot.

And of course I owe tons of thanks to Joe, the deep-diver in this relationship. Tacolicious wouldnt be the same without his drive, his creativity, his recado, and his love of vintage juice squeezers.

From Joe

Thanks to my mom, for caring about design, and to my dad, for being such great leader. You gave me a childhood full of Mexico, chores, and good food. Its almost as if you had a plan.

To Jack S. and Mike H. and Jason P. and Saul P., for meeting me at Circa that sad winter night in 2009 and for not laughing at the idea of our little Spanish restaurant becoming something called Tacolicious.

To Mia and Silas and Moss, for being such good eaters and choosing to save tacos over just about anything (except dumplings, which is a tie). To Lulu and Dexter and the good people at CUESA, for letting us be part of the fantastic Thursday market. And to Lisa at Williams-Sonoma for being such a great cheerleader.

Most of all, to my taco family: Sara, Mikey, Erin, Kory, Telmothe list goes onalong with our investors, customers, and wonderful staff. Tacolicious is only as good as the sum of her parts. And from my perspective, shes pretty darn great.

Introduction

It was January 2009, on a seemingly normal Thursday night at Laola, the Spanish restaurant that my husband, Joe, owned in the Marina District of San Francisco. The Tempranillo was being poured, the croquettes were piping hot. And then Rick Bayless walked in.

Coincidentallyor perhaps fatefullyJoe and I were headed to Mexico the next day for some much-needed R & R. The economy was in a tailspin. Restaurants were closing at an alarming rate in San Francisco, and the recessions maelstrom was sucking Laola in, toono matter that it had opened to three stars. Joes stress level was at an all-time high. Our plan was to fly into Mexico City for a few nights, then spend the rest of our vacation on the beaches of the Yucatn, drinking a lot of tequila and burying our heads in the sand. Our hope was that when we returned to San Francisco the storm would have passed.

So at Laola that night, Joe nervously approached the Chicago-based restaurateur and the countrys honorary professor of Mexican cuisine to ask where we should eat when we were in Mexico City, or DF (Distrito Federal), as the locals call it. Although we had both traveled to other parts of Mexico, from Veracruz to Guanajuato, we had used DF only as an airport transfer point. Amazingly, Mr. Bayless took the time to grab a pencil and a piece of paper and write out a long list of recommendations, as if the request werent something he was asked every day.

Joe came home giddily waving around the paper as if wed won the lottery. In a way, we had. That list kick-started an already brewing love affair with the food of Mexico, and most important, it was the beginning of Tacolicious.

Today, five years into Tacolicious, Joe and I have traveled to Mexico more times than we can count. Weve driven the back roads of the Yucatn to bucolic, off-the-grid villages, such as Tekit, to visit the families of some of our cooks. Weve mindlessly lounged on the beaches of Nayarit. Weve gone on tequila tastings, traveling throughout the lowlands and the highlands of the tequila region, just outside of the stately city of Guadalajara. Every time we return to Mexico, we are reminded not only of how delicious and vibrant the food is but also of how kind and warm the people are. Mexico is a country that embraces you.

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